I have a 2003 620 (DSS)
I adjusted my chain the other day due to it being really loose. Got it back into spec according to the sticker on the bike, torqued the axle back down to what it's supposed to be (per Haynes manual).
So take the bike out and at lower speeds, and while coasting you can here some sort of rubbing (sort of like when a bike chain hits a deraileur?). I think it's somewhere in the chain drive, due to the fact that at higher speeds it's more often, and as the bike slows the noise happens less often. It happens whether you are coasting clutch in, or at a constant speed under power.
As you slow down (below 20mph) you can actually feel when it rubs as the chain comes around. I've taken off the sprocket cover, and the mudguard/chainguard and it still doing it...I can't see where it's hitting. I'm afraid it was the brake rotor, but the gaps in the noise make me think it must be the chain (if it was the brake rotor being warped it would be a more frequent noise, I believe).
Any help would be greatly, greatly, greatly appriciated!!!!!
How many miles on that chain?
Quote from: Le Pirate on September 05, 2008, 02:43:07 PM
I adjusted my chain the other day due to it being really loose.
Did you inspect the chain for stiff links as well? You could have localized stretching in the chain so while you adjust the tightest spot to the allowances the loose spots drag on the top of the chain guard that's on top of the swing arm. If it is this, you can't hear it at higher speeds because the chain is more taunt and therefor doesn't drag.
Quote from: Speeddog on September 05, 2008, 02:58:39 PM
How many miles on that chain?
12k on the chain
Quote from: erkishhorde on September 05, 2008, 03:30:18 PM
Did you inspect the chain for stiff links as well? You could have localized stretching in the chain so while you adjust the tightest spot to the allowances the loose spots drag on the top of the chain guard that's on top of the swing arm. If it is this, you can't hear it at higher speeds because the chain is more taunt and therefor doesn't drag.
this could be it. I kinda just had to eye ball it....I don't have a rear stand and I was working by myself, so I had to push the bike while watching over the side to find the right spot to adjust to
Is the axle aligned properly?
I adjusted my chain on an older bike and didn't align the axle correctly and the chain was not coming of the rear sprocket straight, destroyed a rear sprocket and chain in very short order doing that.
Quote from: CairnsDuc on September 05, 2008, 06:11:06 PM
Is the axle aligned properly?
I adjusted my chain on an older bike and didn't align the axle correctly and the chain was not coming of the rear sprocket straight, destroyed a rear sprocket and chain in very short order doing that.
I measured 3 times after I adjusted. It's straight.
.....though now that it's been brought up, I'm going to have to check again. DAMN YOU, OCD [bang]
Where do you measure to tell that you're straight? I still haven't figured it out so I take the bike for a short ride and see if it's crabbing.
Quote from: erkishhorde on September 06, 2008, 10:30:59 AM
Where do you measure to tell that you're straight? I still haven't figured it out so I take the bike for a short ride and see if it's crabbing.
I measured from the front where the swing arm is attatched and from the back...it was square all around.
I made a short video of the chain while I was riding around the hood, to see if I could tell what is going wrong. Turns out my camera can't record sound [bang] so you can't here when it's rubbing.
anyways, maybe it'll help find the problem. Yes...I was wearing shorts, driving down the street infront of my house. [cheeky]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8k4HeGR_Yw
To check if your wheel is square in the swing arm, take a tape measure and measure the distance from the center of the swing arm pivot to the center of the axle on both sides. The distance should be equal. To check if your sprockets line up, use a straight edge from sprocket to sprocket. Believe it or not, your eye can work pretty good too.
Any way, looking at that video, your chain is probably toast. If the chain is the original, that is as long as they usually last. Hard to tell from a video, though. Check for tight links and dark fine rust around the O rings. Also see how far the chain can be pulled from the back of the rear sprocket. If you can expose more than 1/2 of the tooth you need a chain. Do this in more than one section. The definitive, PITA method of measuring chain stretch on your bike is 16 links should be no longer than 256.5 mm if you want to be anal.
Quote from: howie on September 06, 2008, 03:14:33 PM
To check if your wheel is square in the swing arm, take a tape measure and measure the distance from the center of the swing arm pivot to the center of the axle on both sides. The distance should be equal. To check if your sprockets line up, use a straight edge from sprocket to sprocket. Believe it or not, your eye can work pretty good too.
Any way, looking at that video, your chain is probably toast. If the chain is the original, that is as long as they usually last. Hard to tell from a video, though. Check for tight links and dark fine rust around the O rings. Also see how far the chain can be pulled from the back of the rear sprocket. If you can expose more than 1/2 of the tooth you need a chain. Do this in more than one section. The definitive, PITA method of measuring chain stretch on your bike is 16 links should be no longer than 256.5 mm if you want to be anal.
everything is square. I think you might be right about the chain. I think it's done :'(
off to the parts store I guess. I need to buy a chain tool too
Quote from: Le Pirate on September 06, 2008, 04:25:23 PM
everything is square. I think you might be right about the chain. I think it's done :'(
off to the parts store I guess. I need to buy a chain tool too
And sprockets.
http://www.ca-cycleworks.com will set you up with your chain, sprockets, tool and,if you want, all the good advice you need.
Quote from: howie on September 06, 2008, 06:38:55 PM
And sprockets.
http://www.ca-cycleworks.com will set you up with your chain, sprockets, tool and,if you want, all the good advice you need.
I think i'm going to go ahead and bump it up to the 14 tooth in the front 8)
heard it's better to go more in the back sprocket and keep the 15 up front.
Quote from: Raux on September 06, 2008, 08:18:00 PM
heard it's better to go more in the back sprocket and keep the 15 up front.
hrm...very interesting 8)
anyone do this....I've only heard of people doing the 14?
14T is fine.
Do it, DO IT NOOOOWWW ;D
I plan on going up teeth in the rear.
I don't like the increased noise the 14t causes due to the chain rubbing the swingarm chain guide/slide. :-\
Quote from: DarkStaR on September 07, 2008, 09:00:06 AM
I plan on going up teeth in the rear.
I don't like the increased noise the 14t causes due to the chain rubbing the swingarm chain guide/slide. :-\
yeah, but i already have that problem [laugh]
I've heard good things about these guys.
www.sidewindersprockets.com/ducati
No first hand knowledge tho.
Order your chain and sprockets from Chris @ CA-cycleworks.com for a good deal. You can also get your chain break from him.
I too am planning on going with a new back sprocket as opposed to the front. It's a bit more expensive yeah, but I think just that little bit larger diameter looks pretty mean, especially since you have all the "mud guards" off. Plus, while you're back there you can clean everything up and\or buy a sprocket with a bit of pizazz. It does sound to me though like you have a jacked chain. One thing you might check is the side to side movement of the chain. You may be able to see it in your vid. Dunno, my internet is crawling at the moment. I noticed it was really bad when I could hear more chain noise in the turns, due to the chain actually sagging sideways and rubbing a bit on my swingarm (SSS on an S2R). Luck to ya.
I think it was Chris @ ca-cycleworks but I can't remember for sure... but someone had said that through their extensive experience maintaining people's bikes they hadn't noticed any extensive extra wear by using a 14T front or going up 2/3 in the back so that excuse to choosing one over the other is bunk.
However, if you replace one sprocket you should replace both (my opinion) so that the sprockets wear equally. You don't have to swap sprockets just because your chain is toast if you're short on cash. Only if there is significant wear or damage to them from the chain is it necessary to replace them.