I'm probably just being paranoid.
As most of you know, I just bought a M696. It's brand new, and I've put about 15 miles on it. This morning I wanted to take it to work, but a few issues kept that from happening.
First, it had trouble turning over. The engine just wouldn't start! I would push the button, the engine would turn on for about 1-2 seconds, and then shut down. Finally (after about 5-6 tries), it finally held and stayed on.
I keep it in a heated indoor garage, so I didn't think I needed to let it warm up for very long. But I let it run for about 2-3 minutes before heading out. As soon as I try to go, it stalls. I try again, and it stalls. No matter how slowly I let the clutch out, it stalls. So I think, "Ok, maybe I need to let it warm up some more." (I don't even know if warming up and stalling are related, but I figured it was worth a shot). I let it run for another 2-3 minutes, and this time I was able to get moving.
HOWEVER, I got outside, stopped, and guess what? Friggin stalled AGAIN! [bang]
It was cold, but it wasn't THAT cold (~40*f). And I don't even know if the stalling and the cold are related. Maybe I'm just an inept driver??? I was letting the clutch out soooooo slowly. But it still kept stalling. I kept trying to get it moving again, but then the yellow light (top left corner) when on. So I said "F-this!" took the Monster back in the garage, and rode my bicycle to work. :'(
Also, when it does finally get moving, the bike starts chugging back and forth until it picks up enough speed to run smoothly. ???
So between, 1) The engine not turning over, 2) the stalling, 3) the yellow light going on, and 4) the chugging at slow speeds from a stand-still.... I'm somewhat concerned.
Again, maybe I'm just being paranoid.
yellow light = fuel light?
is it out of gas?!
Quote from: corey on October 28, 2008, 06:44:06 AM
yellow light = fuel light?
is it out of gas?!
It's not the gas light... that's on the right.
Also, the light went off after I turned off the engine and re-started it. But still...
First of all, are you using the cold start lever?
I could be completely wrong here, so wait for somebody who has an FI bike to chime in, but If it's 40 degrees out, you may have to let it warm up for more than a couple of minutes. The stalling and the cold are probably related. As for the yellow light, I don't know what that is on the 696. The stuttering at slow speeds could just be the tall ducati gearing, but it's hard to tell from your description. Hope some of this helps.
edit: +1 to Jbubbles Post.
Were you using the cold start lever? Especially at that temperature it needs to be used to start up and warm up. There is a bit of a procedure to it that took me a few tries and fails before it worked. Basically I always let it warm up with the cold start lever open before I even attempt to drive off.
I just asked a similar question in a different thread...............how long is a good enough warm up period for say 30 degree weather? 5 mins? 10 mins? till engine runs smoove?
You definitely need to use the cold start lever / choke on left side handlebar to start her up on a cold day and then I generally let her sit for a minute or two at about 2k rpm to get some heat in the engine. Anyone else can chime in here, but you really shouldn't need to let it warm up for much longer than this.
On the stalling and lugging... that tall first gear takes some getting used to. To risk stating the obvious, I found that you can't just let out the clutch without rolling in some throttle. The true engagement of the clutch is very near the end of travel, so you may think you're letting it out slowly because you're focusing on that full travel and dumping it at the end. I mentioned this in another post, but just use two fingers on the clutch lever and use the other two as a travel "stop". This will help focus you on the small amount of travel that actually does anything on these bikes. On top of all of this, go get your dealer to install the 14 tooth front sprocket at your first service (if not when you take it back if you've still got problems with it). This change makes all of this WAY better and is really how the bike needed to be geared in the first place. After I got the swap, I yelled "HELL YEAH!" in my helmet.
Not sure about the yellow light and if none of the above works, then I'd take it back to the dealer and ask them to ride it around and either show you what you're doing wrong or fix the d@mn thing! BTW... probably a good call in taking her back to the garage. Not a good idea to ride mad. Best of luck.
Have you checked to see if your 696 is on the ignition coil recall list? A number of 696 came out of the factory with incorrectly hooked up coils. This could be adding to some of your woes.
Also - how many total miles on the bike? IF the engine's still running in, it will be a bit tight, even more so on cooler days.
Quote from: gh0stie on October 28, 2008, 07:13:32 AM
I just asked a similar question in a different thread...............how long is a good enough warm up period for say 30 degree weather? 5 mins? 10 mins? till engine runs smoove?
I would say until your temp gauge stops flashing
"LO" [thumbsup]
Seems to be at about 125°
Quote from: yotogi on October 28, 2008, 07:39:00 AM
By 15 tooth, he means 14 tooth.
Oops... good catch. fixed.
Like others have said, you need to use cold start lever. I put mine on, start the bike, then adjust it down so the bike idles around 2000rpm. I let it warm up for a minute, get the oil moved around, the lower it again so that the bike idles around 1500rpm, then off I go. Keep in mind, the lever is still on while I am driving. I leave it on for a good 3-5 minutes depending on the temperature. When I finally take it off, my bike idles around 1000rpm (unusual, I know).
First gear on a Monster is TALL. Real tall. This was the first bike I had with a dry clutch, and my first monster. You can't easy it out slowly and hope for the best. Make sure you have room to go, and release the clutch while giving it some gas at the same time. It WILL stall if you don't roll on the gas while letting out the clutch. The dry clutch does not like being slipped. If find its much more of an agressive launch that I was used to, but it works. Monsters was to go baby!
Don't get frustrated. Even if you are an experienced rider, that dry clutch and tall gearing can take some getting used to.
Quote from: DesmoDisciple on October 28, 2008, 09:03:52 AM
Like others have said, you need to use cold start lever. I put mine on, start the bike, then adjust it down so the bike idles around 2000rpm. I let it warm up for a minute, get the oil moved around, the lower it again so that the bike idles around 1500rpm, then off I go. Keep in mind, the lever is still on while I am driving. I leave it on for a good 3-5 minutes depending on the temperature. When I finally take it off, my bike idles around 1000rpm (unusual, I know).
First gear on a Monster is TALL. Real tall. This was the first bike I had with a dry clutch, and my first monster. You can't easy it out slowly and hope for the best. Make sure you have room to go, and release the clutch while giving it some gas at the same time. It WILL stall if you don't roll on the gas while letting out the clutch. The dry clutch does not like being slipped. If find its much more of an agressive launch that I was used to, but it works. Monsters was to go baby!
Don't get frustrated. Even if you are an experienced rider, that dry clutch and tall gearing can take some getting used to.
Just FYI, the 696 does not have a dry clutch. Wet clutch.
When my bike was breaking in and up to about 700 miles, I had trouble with cold starts and had my yellow engine light come on a couple of times (and then go off after shutting down and restarting). After taking it in to the dealer and getting the codes cleared, it seemed to start better and better. I am guessing this was likely due to the engine breaking in, my proficiency with the cold start lever, and getting the ECU codes cleared.
Keep in mind this is a FI bike. If the bike is not at operating temps, the ECU is adjusting the choke (fuel/air mix) on the go. This could cause some stalls from a start if the engine is not fully warmed. If conditions warrant, a little more aggressive starts may allow you to ride through the problem.
Finally +1 to the suggestion you get the coil wires checked although if you just purchased your bike, this probably should have been checked by the dealer as this is a known problem. There is a long thread on the coil issues, but two likely symptoms would be overheating and engine stuttering at about 3.5-4K.
Let's see some pics of your new baby [thumbsup]
Yep...wet clutch on the 696! It is not a dry clutch!
Anyway, have the dealer check the coil issue...I've been having an extremely difficult time starting my M696. It would usually take 10 - 12 time to get it started. Right now it has been in the shop for 3 weeks and they have just replaced the Throttle bodies. I hope that your new bike doesn't have the same issues as mine.
Once they get it sorted out I'm sure you will love it! Congrats on the new toy! [thumbsup]
The amber light on the upper left side is the EOBD engine diagnostics light. According to the manual, a steady light indicates errors leading to engine lock.
I just checked with my dealer and he said it could be a vacuum leak, so bring it in and have your dealer check it out.
At 400 miles i had a similair nightmare with my 696 when that light comes on you can use the mode button and it will take you to (like u said) a diagnostic screen. If you cant duplicate the problem dealer will be able to tell you what the prob. was after they hook up to the computer. You didn't get a lemon as my service writer said to me " its a brand new model consider yourself a pioneer "
Quote from: causeofkaos on October 28, 2008, 12:59:13 PM
" its a brand new model consider yourself a pioneer "
That statement would have made me angry. I'm sure he meant it as a joke but a brand new bike should act brand new...no troubles!
Get the bike back to the dealer, don't accept any BS excuses till the bike runs as it should.
I agree that you usually have to learn how the bike wants to be started but warming up till the "lo" temp shuts off or more than a half minute or so should not be necessary for any well sorted out motorcycle.
When the dealer calls you and tells you it is ready to pick up, tell him not to start it prior to you getting there and you start it with him standing by...have your gear and go for a ride. If it still gives you trouble, leave it there and let him know that you don't wanted called again till the thing is right.
Quote from: Old-Duckman on October 28, 2008, 01:31:13 PM
That statement would have made me angry. I'm sure he meant it as a joke but a brand new bike should act brand new...no troubles!
Brand new model and brand new bike and you think it'd be trouble free?
Most new models, for cars, bike, etc, come with some problems. This is nothing new-it's part of the inherent risk one takes when they buy something never ever built before. Even the D16 has a recall. Want trouble free? Buy something they've made for four-five years and worked the bugs out on.
I am still curious if the OP was using the fast idle lever...
Quote from: somebastid on October 28, 2008, 04:35:47 PM
Brand new model and brand new bike and you think it'd be trouble free?
Most new models, for cars, bike, etc, come with some problems. This is nothing new-it's part of the inherent risk one takes when they buy something never ever built before. Even the D16 has a recall. Want trouble free? Buy something they've made for four-five years and worked the bugs out on.
An excuse and I don't buy it.
Lack of quality control, rushing to market with a model that should have undergone further testing and development.
I love my Ducatis but I think Ducati is lacking in the area of bringing products to market before the bugs are worked out...I picked up my S2R1000 in Dec. of 05 and had many problems. Most were covered under warranty. I say most because I feel that Ducati has still not addressed the O2 sensor problems.
I want something trouble free when I pay $10 grand plus for a new motorcycle...I don't really think that is asking too much.
Quote from: Old-Duckman on October 28, 2008, 05:36:30 PM
An excuse and I don't buy it.
Lack of quality control, rushing to market with a model that should have undergone further testing and development.
I love my Ducatis but I think Ducati is lacking in the area of bringing products to market before the bugs are worked out...I picked up my S2R1000 in Dec. of 05 and had many problems. Most were covered under warranty. I say most because I feel that Ducati has still not addressed the O2 sensor problems.
I want something trouble free when I pay $10 grand plus for a new motorcycle...I don't really think that is asking too much.
Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, Honda [cheeky]
BMW if you want to spend more.
I'm not saying it's acceptable, I'm saying it's common.
Searching this board and TOB would bring up numerous S2R issues. In fact, if you pick about any particular model of *anything* and do a google search with "sucks" at the end, IE www.toyotapriussucks.com, you'll find there are complaints about everything.
There are plenty of stories about odd problems on bikes here, and bikes being in the shop for months at a time, awaiting parts, or diagnosis. Again, I think you have a point, but....there's how it
should be, and how it is. It's a new bike, new systems, new suppliers, being put together by people new to the bike. Possibly with new tools to do so. I would expect problems.
WOW, everyone is sooooo helpful, this place is great! ;D
First of all, I began using the cold start lever (is it also referred to as a choke?). The lever seems to be quite helpful in warming it up. Couple questions on that...
Do you use the lever before turning the key and starting the engine?
How long do you stand around and wait for the bike warm up?
Do you leave the lever on while beginning your ride? And if so, for how long?
As for the stalling... the suggestion(s) to give it some throttle while letting out the clutch was HUGE! I'm stalling far less frequently now. Now I'm rolling into a take-off, as opposed to "chugging" into it. There is still some stuttering off the line, but I'm sure it'll get more smooth with practice.
Lastly, I'm still having some trouble getting the engine to turn over. Especially first thing in the morning after it has been sitting all night. It's taking 5 or 6 tries to get the engine to catch. Hopefully this is merely a new bike issue or a cold issue, and not an inherent flaw in the bike.
Again, thank you so much for your exceptionally helpful advice. It is much appreciated.
Glad some of that advice is helping! Also sounds like your dealer didn't spend much time going through the bike with you... which is lame. Yeah... you'll want to set the cold start lever BEFORE you fire the engine, although I've heard Ducati used to recommend firing the engine first and then using the lever on the older model Monsters. Notice that it's not an on/off switch and you can adjust the rpm with it once you've got the engine going. I let mine sit for about 2 mins on a colder morning at 2,000 rpm before turning the cold start lever to the "off" position and then listen for a nice consistent idle. I also remember that I had a few times when the bike wouldn't fire on the first try when the bike was new. May be as someone else suggested... that it's just a little "tight" until you're through the break-in. You should NOT ride with the lever on.
Quote from: Old-Duckman on October 28, 2008, 01:31:13 PM
If it still gives you trouble, leave it there and let him know that you don't wanted called again till the thing is right.
I understand your point, but not your tone about it.
To be honest, if I were a dealer and I got half the attitude in this post, and it ended with that declaration, I'd put the bike in the back corner and tell the staff to not call you for at least two months.
These are toys. And there are lots of equivalent toys out there that are the biking equivalent of a Honda Civic (of course our Civic needed 2K in warranty work and my law degree to get it fixed). Remember when Lamborghini 'tested' cars on their customers? Ducati is well past that stage, but not Honda by any means.
The initial problem in this post shows why I say it's all about the dealer with DUcati, not the bike itself. If the dealer said bring it by and let's have a look, and then went over the starting procedure, discussed the motor lugging at low rpm, etc.etc., this would be a post about how cool Ducati is, not worrying about having a broken new bike. It's be great if most dealers offered as much info as the DMF...Alas, not so much.
Quote from: Rambler1982 on October 29, 2008, 06:35:10 AM
WOW, everyone is sooooo helpful, this place is great! ;D
First of all, I began using the cold start lever (is it also referred to as a choke?). The lever seems to be quite helpful in warming it up. Couple questions on that...
Do you use the lever before turning the key and starting the engine?
How long do you stand around and wait for the bike warm up?
Do you leave the lever on while beginning your ride? And if so, for how long?
As for the stalling... the suggestion(s) to give it some throttle while letting out the clutch was HUGE! I'm stalling far less frequently now. Now I'm rolling into a take-off, as opposed to "chugging" into it. There is still some stuttering off the line, but I'm sure it'll get more smooth with practice.
Lastly, I'm still having some trouble getting the engine to turn over. Especially first thing in the morning after it has been sitting all night. It's taking 5 or 6 tries to get the engine to catch. Hopefully this is merely a new bike issue or a cold issue, and not an inherent flaw in the bike.
Again, thank you so much for your exceptionally helpful advice. It is much appreciated.
Do you have an owner's manual for that bike, and did you read it? The manual for my bike gives the startup procedure and how to use the cold start lever. Also, it's pretty common knowledge among those who ride motorbikes that you can't merely let the clutch out when starting off. You must give it some throttle as well. An easy exchange of clutch and throttle is how I would describe it, much like driving a car with a manual transmission. Seems your inexperience is 2/3 of your problem.
With that said I'd get the coil issue checked out. The check engine light could be something else entirely.
Quote from: wisdesign on October 29, 2008, 06:54:08 AM
You should NOT ride with the lever on.
I may be mistaken, but I think my manual mentioning riding with this on until warmed up was okay. If not, I woul dhave to wait for it to warm up much longer to get it to the point where it would idle with the cold start lever off.
I ride with the cold start lever on all the time while my bike warms up, helps keep me from stalling at the first couple of stop signs.
I just keep adjusting it down as the idle increases, after a few minutes I shut it off entirely.
Quote from: bergdoerfer on October 29, 2008, 09:03:12 AM
Do you have an owner's manual for that bike, and did you read it? The manual for my bike gives the startup procedure and how to use the cold start lever.
I do not have an owner's manual. The dealer didn't provide one when they sold me the bike, but said they'd mail it to me.
Quote from: bergdoerfer on October 29, 2008, 09:03:12 AM
Also, it's pretty common knowledge among those who ride motorbikes that you can't merely let the clutch out when starting off. You must give it some throttle as well.
I was not taught that in the MSF course that I took 2 weeks ago. On the bikes we rode we would simply start moving if you just slowly let out the clutch.
Quote from: Rambler1982 on October 29, 2008, 10:14:34 AM
I do not have an owner's manual. The dealer didn't provide one when they sold me the bike, but said they'd mail it to me.
I was not taught that in the MSF course that I took 2 weeks ago. On the bikes we rode we would simply start moving if you just slowly let out the clutch.
Those bikes in the MSF courses are significantly lighter and therefore, you can get away with less throttle on takeoff, same as you can in a lighter car.
I have also found that my M696 takes longer to warm up than previous bikes I've owned, but I can live with that. More time for [coffee]
Quote from: msincredible on October 29, 2008, 09:25:12 AM
I ride with the cold start lever on all the time while my bike warms up, helps keep me from stalling at the first couple of stop signs.
I just keep adjusting it down as the idle increases, after a few minutes I shut it off entirely.
+1
plus, my dealer cranked the adjustment on the lever so that fully on gives about 3000rpm, and I can use it as a ghetto style cruise control for short periods to stretch or adjust [thumbsup]
mitt
Quote from: Rambler1982 on October 29, 2008, 10:14:34 AM
I was not taught that in the MSF course that I took 2 weeks ago. On the bikes we rode we would simply start moving if you just slowly let out the clutch.
That should be a good exercise in clutch control on your current bike, too. Try riding slowly around a parking lot with your right hand behind your back.
Quote from: msincredible on October 29, 2008, 12:25:16 PM
That should be a good exercise in clutch control on your current bike, too. Try riding slowly around a parking lot with your right hand behind your back.
maybe on G's 620...could do that all day long.
Not something I'd recommend on my RS.
Not all bikes will be happy to do that.
The technique I like to see people be able to do is have quite a bit of throttle but to then control speed with the clutch. You can move at just a slow crawl at high rpm. Not great for the clutch to do all day every day as practice, but great to be able to adjust a little if you start from a stop into a turn at a light or stop sign. Makes for smooth and controlled takeoffs on any surface and any incline etc.etc.
Quote from: msincredible on October 29, 2008, 12:25:16 PM
That should be a good exercise in clutch control on your current bike, too. Try riding slowly around a parking lot with your right hand behind your back.
I can try it, but I think there's no way my bike would tolerate letting out the clutch without giving it any throttle. It'd just stall and tell me to go f-myself :D
On those bikes, the clutch would engage almost as soon as I let it out, and by the time I let it out all the way I was off and moving. That's FAR from the case with my 696.
Quote from: Rambler1982 on October 29, 2008, 10:14:34 AM
I do not have an owner's manual. The dealer didn't provide one when they sold me the bike, but said they'd mail it to me.
You can download the manual here:
http://www.ducati.com/en/bikes/service/manuals/2008.jhtml?family=manuals (http://www.ducati.com/en/bikes/service/manuals/2008.jhtml?family=manuals)
I was not taught that in the MSF course that I took 2 weeks ago. On the bikes we rode we would simply start moving if you just slowly let out the clutch.
That was an excersize in learning clutch friction point. If you want to get going in a reasonable ammount of time or on an incine you must use the throttle.
Please don't take this as a dig, but I think you are still working on your rider skeelz - it sounds like it may not be a mechanical problem. I did the same thing - a few weeks after my MSF, I was mounting my 620. I was a stalling/swearing machine for the first few hundred miles.
Something you might try to get over the instinct to go light on the throttle - practice starting out in second gear, where you are going to have to give a bit more juice. When your brain recognizes that aggressive throttle ≠death, I think it will be easier to get good starts going in first gear. Good luck, and congrats on the new bike [thumbsup]
Like Howie stated earlier, the MSF exercise was to find and get the feel of the friction zone of the clutch. It was not meant to be presented as proper startoff technique. You can't get a ~360 pound bike moving by letting off the clutch at 1000-1500 rpm. It will stall out. Question: have you ever driven a car with a manual transmission? Sounds like you don't quite have clutching technique down yet. When you let off the lever you have to gently roll on the throttle in concert, helps to rev it up a bit beforehand. It may take a while to get the technique down. Try driving a car with a stick, it may help.
Quote from: il d00d on October 29, 2008, 01:20:22 PM
Please don't take this as a dig, but I think you are still working on your rider skeelz - it sounds like it may not be a mechanical problem.
Not taken as such at all. Nowhere did I claim that I don't need to work on my riding skills. In fact, I openly admitted that this is something that will come to me with time, practice and patience. Additionally, I was able to get it down a lil better with a few helpful tips from the kind and knowledgeable people here.
I'll give your suggestion a try. Thanks.
Now I'm more concerned about the engine taking so many attempt to get it to turn over.
Quote from: bergdoerfer on October 29, 2008, 01:39:05 PM
Question: have you ever driven a car with a manual transmission? Sounds like you don't quite have clutching technique down yet.
I have not. And it's probably contributing to the learning curve in figuring this out. But I'm getting better and will continue practicing. :)
Rambler, the fast idle lever is an essential part of your cold start system. The computer on your car takes care of both cold idle enrichment and idle speed. On your 696 cold idle speed is left up to you. If you try and start the bile without using the lever you will not have sufficient throttle opening to maintain proper idle speed and the mixture may be off enough to not even want to start.
Glad to hear you are getting the feel of the clutch down. Not only is the friction zone towards the end of the lever, but it is also difficult to feel. For now, a little more throttle than you think you need will help, just let the clutch out slowly so you don't take off quicker than you want. Your wet clutch will take the abuse. As said before, a reduction in gearing will help, down one tooth on the front sprocket or up two in the rear. This should make low speed maneuvers easier for you also.
Quote from: Statler on October 29, 2008, 07:07:02 AM
I understand your point, but not your tone about it.
To be honest, if I were a dealer and I got half the attitude in this post, and it ended with that declaration, I'd put the bike in the back corner and tell the staff to not call you for at least two months.
Well reading through the latest posts it seems the bike is fine and the OP is just learning the basics of living with a motorcycle...I'm glad for him and glad the bike is not a "lemon".
That said...If you were a dealer, my dealer, and you pulled that "bike in the back corner and not call for 2 months" it would be the last time you saw me...or my money, in your shop. I would also tell anyone who would listen, how I was treated by your dealership.
I treat my dealer with respect but I expect to be treated likewise from them. Whatever happened to "The customer is always right"?
I am a good customer, I am good pay and I want my dealer to make money...because I like his service and want him to stay in business. However should I be disrespected and not appreciated...there are others to choose from who will treat their customers right and be happy to take my money.
I don't think it is unreasonable at all to tell someone working on your vehicle that you ddon't want to be called until the bike is right...Why waste my time and his?
no...you're right...I think I was reading more attitude into it than intended.
I absolutely don't think the customer is allways right. So when I hear catch phrases like it's a 10,000 bike it should be perfect and don't call me until it is fixed, I hear it said rather gruffly. And often that style of customer just isn't worth the money.
So if it was meant as a respectfull discussion with the dealer saying "hey, Ducati effed this one up, I know you'll be working on figuring out what's wrong and doing any needed warranty work, but let's get this fixed 100% so we don't go back and forth with one of us allways unhappy." then cool. If it was an angry drop the bike off and yelling "don't call me until it's right" and a storm out the building....it gets nothing done specifically so the guy would go elsewhere.
I am sorry if I read into it the wrong category.
You know, when you guys are all reasonable and adult like, it kills the chance of the bystanders watching an amusing and pointless internet argument.
Did you consider the masses before getting all reasonable?
The other day, when it was 90*F, the bike had to idle for a good few mins with the fast idle turned up, and still, she stalled when I went to take off. The bike is geared too tall, IMO. So when the motor is still cold, it exacerbates the stalling issue. :P
Bike has the Termingnoni/ECU setup, btw.
Really lame that your dealer did not have a manual. Thats unforgivable. A Ducati is a premium bike, and I would expect a certain level of service if I were buying new from a dealer.
If my '99 carbed bike can crank with full choke on the 1st or 2nd hit on the starter, idle for 15 seconds, and I can ride away when it's 30ºF, I would and FI bike could also ~
JM
Quote from: Statler on October 29, 2008, 05:09:32 PM
no...you're right...I think I was reading more attitude into it than intended.
I absolutely don't think the customer is allways right. So when I hear catch phrases like it's a 10,000 bike it should be perfect and don't call me until it is fixed, I hear it said rather gruffly. And often that style of customer just isn't worth the money.
So if it was meant as a respectfull discussion with the dealer saying "hey, Ducati effed this one up, I know you'll be working on figuring out what's wrong and doing any needed warranty work, but let's get this fixed 100% so we don't go back and forth with one of us allways unhappy." then cool. If it was an angry drop the bike off and yelling "don't call me until it's right" and a storm out the building....it gets nothing done specifically so the guy would go elsewhere.
I am sorry if I read into it the wrong category.
Everyone who emails or writes posts to the Net knows what that is like. It is really easy to read an attitude or...whatever using this mode of communication.
And, as poster Smartaleck pointed out...the adult attitude most of us have here with each other takes the fun out of it for many...Oh well...they can go spend their time on a WRX forum or better yet some gamming site...I'd imagine that they will find more than enough Net-arguments to fuel their desire.
You sir are a gentleman and a scholar!
UPDATE:
I'm getting much better with the stalling. In fact, it's hardly happening at all now. I'm making good progress in learning how to exchange clutch and throttle. My starts are becoming far more smooth.
I still need some work on downshifting, and turning. But it will come with practice.
Thanks again for all the helpful advice. :)
Glad to hear it! [thumbsup]
BTW, on one ride last winter I started stalling at every stop sign.
It was weather-related...my hands were too cold for good clutch control. :-[ :P
It looks like I'm late to the party, but I also had trouble with stalls the first 100 or so miles on my 696. Glad to hear your problems are mostly resolved and I wish you many fun & safe rides on your new toy!