Hey there,
I have a Monster 696. With 2K on it. I also have it serviced almost 1000 thousand miles ago.
I have to go abroad for at least 4 months and I am worried that how will I keep the bike in a running condition. I was thinking of doing following things
- Disconnect the battery and putting it on Battery tender
- Put fuel stabilizer in the tank so that Fuel doesn’t go bad.
- Store it in underground garage with all weather cover.
I do have some one who may be able to come and start the engine and let it run idly for 15ish minutes every 2nd weekish. I am tempted to do that because I know that removing the battery is a pain and avoiding that will be a great idea.
Is there anything else I can do to make it sure that when I come back after 4 months, the bike start in first go.
Can some one please help me out what should I do and whats the best way to handle this long absence and making sure the bike runs optimal when I come back.
Do as you have stated and you will be fine.
Its not a good idea to periodicly start engines in storage.
Quote from: furqanamanat on January 03, 2009, 04:00:15 PM
Hey there,
I have a Monster 696. With 2K on it. I also have it serviced almost 1000 thousand miles ago.
I have to go abroad for at least 4 months and I am worried that how will I keep the bike in a running condition. I was thinking of doing following things
- Disconnect the battery and putting it on Battery tender
- Put fuel stabilizer in the tank so that Fuel doesn’t go bad.
- Store it in underground garage with all weather cover.
I do have some one who may be able to come and start the engine and let it run idly for 15ish minutes every 2nd weekish. I am tempted to do that because I know that removing the battery is a pain and avoiding that will be a great idea.
Is there anything else I can do to make it sure that when I come back after 4 months, the bike start in first go.
Can some one please help me out what should I do and whats the best way to handle this long absence and making sure the bike runs optimal when I come back.
You've got the basics right.
Better to pull the battery than to have someone start it every whenevertheygetaroundtoit.
Put the fuel stabilizer in, then run the bike around the block a couple times to get the stabilizer into the F.I. system.
Have your buddy move the bike every so often so that the tires don't develop a flat spot. Alternatively, put it on stands.
Where ya headed?
Oh, and welcome to the show.
unfortunately there really isnt a ton that can be done in a situation like that besides what you said
Quote from: furqanamanat on January 03, 2009, 04:00:15 PM
- Disconnect the battery and putting it on Battery tender
- Put fuel stabilizer in the tank so that Fuel doesn’t go bad.
- Store it in underground garage with all weather cover.
i really wouldnt start it every couple of weeks unless it is going to be run untill the point of actually being warmed up or ridden running it for just that little bit in my eyes would actually cause more damage do to condensation from getting somewhat warm then cooling down. ever woner why you see water coming out of the exaust on cars that rarely ever get freeway miles? due to the climate in northern minnesota i have to put my m750 away for at least six months at a time and i rarely even look at it once its put away. usually it starts up ok. just make sure you fill the tank and stabilize the fuel, id try to find some non oxygenated fuel myself to stay away from the alchohol in other fuels
Quote from: Bun-bun on January 03, 2009, 04:20:40 PM
You've got the basics right.
Better to pull the battery than to have someone start it every whenevertheygetaroundtoit.
Put the fuel stabilizer in, then run the bike around the block a couple times to get the stabilizer into the F.I. system.
Have your buddy move the bike every so often so that the tires don't develop a flat spot. Alternatively, put it on stands.
Where ya headed?
Oh, and welcome to the show.
Thanks for the tip, so if the motorbike is being started, say for 30ish minute every weekend.. will i still face the same issue. My problem is that Ducait 696 has one of the most painful battery removals i have seen in 14 years of riding.. I have to take the bike to dealer, have it removed and then have it towed back. Not ideal by any means.. because i have to do the same once i need the battery back in the bike.
I will get my buddy to do the tire roll for sure.
I am being sent to Japan. I have been told today that i am leaving within 6 days.. I think i will just cry myself to sleep tonight... I just bought the Duc !!!
So I go against the norm. For four months I would just park it and walk away. I leave my 06 Bandit parked for the winter 5+ months. Charge the battery at the start of the season and go for it. Have never had a problem.
Quote from: wizzobeer on January 03, 2009, 05:04:01 PM
So I go against the norm. For four months I would just park it and walk away. I leave my 06 Bandit parked for the winter 5+ months. Charge the battery at the start of the season and go for it. Have never had a problem.
maybe its just the fuel in my area but for whatever odd reason if i dont stabilize the fuel anything that i had it in that sat over a month is more than likely not going to start, average life for pump gas in my area is under 30 days depending on the way you store it
I will be storing my bike for about 3 months. 2001 M900S. Thinking I will do a fresh oil change and run it around for a day. Clean the bike as good as I can. Fill the tank. Detach the battery. Put some socks over the the exhaust to keep the creepy crawlers from making a home. Same for the intake snorkels. Lube the chain. Put the bike on a stand. Cover it. And... I was thinking about taking the timing belts off the bike, so that they wouldn't spend 3 months in the same stretched position. Anyone have an opinion on that last part?
Quote from: furqanamanat on January 03, 2009, 04:52:07 PM
Thanks for the tip, so if the motorbike is being started, say for 30ish minute every weekend.. will i still face the same issue. My problem is that Ducait 696 has one of the most painful battery removals i have seen in 14 years of riding.. I have to take the bike to dealer, have it removed and then have it towed back. Not ideal by any means.. because i have to do the same once i need the battery back in the bike.
I will get my buddy to do the tire roll for sure.
I am being sent to Japan. I have been told today that i am leaving within 6 days.. I think i will just cry myself to sleep tonight... I just bought the Duc !!!
Sorry you'll be leaving your Duc, but I think you'll really like Japan.
Can you hook the battery tender up to it in the garage? That would solve your problem.
Make sure your bud understands that the bike should end up in a different spot than it started. The idea is to have a different part of the tire on the pavement whe he's done. If he just moves it forward and back, there's no point.
Grappa, The belt removal sounds like overkill for only 3 months storage IMO.
Ive had one of my monsters in storage for as long as 15 months fuel stablizer is a no brainer IMHO the tire roll is a waste of time my tires were fine after 15 months. my battery tenders are hard wired on my bikes so i can just plug them in and go which is handy for short or no notice travel. so i say wash it really good, put in the stablizer, plug it in and go.
696 should already be wired for a tender, right side of the frame.
What they said:
Wash the bike.
Tender plug hooked to battery on bike.
Change the oil right before it's going to sit.
Fuel stabilizer into a full tank. Full tank means less chance of rust developing.
Set up the bike so the front and back tire are off the air so the tires don't get flat spots.
If you want to be extra anal, pull the plugs and squirt just a little wd-40 in each cylinder before replacing the plugs. Should prevent rust in the cylinders.
Mind you, this was my ritual for storing my bike through the Vermont winter (Nov-April) in an unheated, drafty garage. Probably overkill for your situation.
Quote from: Drunken Monkey on January 04, 2009, 11:09:27 AM
If you want to be extra anal, pull the plugs and squirt just a little wd-40 in each cylinder before replacing the plugs. Should prevent rust in the cylinders.
The cylinders are made of nikasil (nickel-silicon) over aluminum, so no rusting. Pistons are alum as well. I believe the rings are chromed, but they may be cast iron. I forgot. If they are chromed, then no rusting...
However, fogging the cylinders
is a good idea because all the oil in the galleys will draw to the bottom of the sump soon leaving the cyls with no lube when you start up. I would not use WD40 as it is not a lubricant, rather it is a light solvent (until most of it evaporates, leaving a very light lube)... Either use regular oil -- and use a heavier weight like 15w40 or use a fogging spray.
The oil is fine, you just need to turn the engine manually to distribute it evenly. Squirt in 3-4 times with a hand pump like you find at Autozone (http://www.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/4472410/2/istockphoto_4472410-oil-can-in-hand.jpg). With a fogging spray, you just spray it in and it bubbles up everywhere. I use Starbrite,but there are many brands. The rings hold enough of either in place to lube when you start.
Also, if you are REALLY anal, after fogging as above, take off the valve cam covers and squirt some oil in BEFORE YOU START it , especially on the vertical head. There is no oil flow there for up to 20 seconds when you start the engine and if it's been sitting a while, well, you get the idea. I use fog spray for this as well as it mixes with oil just fine -- wd40 does not.
The cylinders won't rust, but the valves an seats that are open can. Best to use a cylinder fogger.
Quote from: howie on January 04, 2009, 12:55:00 PM
The cylinders won't rust, but the valves an seats that are open can. Best to use a cylinder fogger.
totally forgot about the iron valve seats.
Quote from: furqanamanat on January 03, 2009, 04:00:15 PM
Hey there,
I have a Monster 696. With 2K on it. I also have it serviced almost 1000 thousand miles ago.
I have to go abroad for at least 4 months and I am worried that how will I keep the bike in a running condition. I was thinking of doing following things
- Disconnect the battery and putting it on Battery tender Good
- Put fuel stabilizer in the tank so that Fuel doesn’t go bad. Good
- Store it in underground garage with all weather cover. Good as long as its secure enough for you to be comfortable
I do have some one who may be able to come and start the engine and let it run idly for 15ish minutes every 2nd weekish. I am tempted to do that because I know that removing the battery is a pain and avoiding that will be a great idea. Bad idea this is worse for the bike than letting it just sit.
Is there anything else I can do to make it sure that when I come back after 4 months, the bike start in first go.
Can some one please help me out what should I do and whats the best way to handle this long absence and making sure the bike runs optimal when I come back.
FWIW, i stored my bike from almost 6 months last year. not much different from storing it for the winter. i did the following to take care of it.
a) put the bike up on stands to keep the tires from getting flat spots
b) battery on a trickle charger
c) fuel stabilizer in a
full tank of gas
the bike was left alone in an unheated garage, with no one to check on it for the entire time. i left myself a checklist of the things that i would want to check on before riding it again, and all was good.
as long as the bike is in a secure location, dont sweat it [thumbsup]
Agree with most of what has been said. 30+ years of motorcycling in Minnesota, read long winter storage period, is where I am coming from.
Tank full to the brim with stabilized, non oxygenated fuel if you can get it. Run the engine long enough to move stabilized fuel through the entire system. Top it back up. A full tank will rust far less on the interior. Don't worry about the tires, bike generally aint heavy enough to flat-spot a tire. And if it does, a modern tire will smooth out in a couple miles. If you can afford it and have time, get a stand or a pair of them to help prevent some dickhead knocking it over.
Battery in or out does not matter. Get it on a tender if ya have one, get the trickle charger on it a couple days a month if you don't. Should be bale to find a plug-in programmable timer at a home center, or have your buddy do that.
Don't need to fog or pre-lube at start up for the time you mention. If your assignement overseas might go beyond 6 months, then fog it. Pull the covers and spray fogging lube on the cams etc. to protect them as well. Again, under 6 months no need.
CHANGE THE OIL BEFORE STORAGE! Get the crud out!
Do not run it. You will just load the exhaust and engine with moisture form condensate, and idling int he garage will not burn it off.
When you get back and are ready to ride, air the tires, look it over good, fire it up and go. The most important tip is GO EASY for a day or so. You get rusty and reactions slow down on a long lay-off.
Pretty much what Bigbore4 said. I'm gone a lot and I have 5 bikes and don't do much except fuel stabilizer and battery tender. I usually don't bother to change the oil first and nothing bad ever happens. Loosening the timing belts is also a total waste of time. They just aren't that delicate at all to take a set and weaken while not being operated. I really don't like the idea of someone coming over once a week or so and rolling the tires, etc. Not only a complete waste of time, I also just don't like the idea of anyone, good friend or highly qualified or not, messing with my bike once a week.
Don't let on that I said this, but if you just go on your trip and don't do anything special at all to prepare your bike for 4 months storage, nothing bad will happen. But the battery tender and fuel stabilizer are still a good idea.
Off topic - 4 months in Japan sounds like a great adventure. If it were me I'd just focus on the trip and have a great time and forget about the bike. If you can tell us without having to kill us if you do, what are you going to be doing there?