I modded my project fuel pump flange today. The quick disconnects are very secure.
The broken ebay find:
(http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc190/stankbone/DSC00577.jpg)
The inlet/outlet drilled & tapped:
(http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc190/stankbone/DSC00585.jpg)
The quick disconnects fitted:
(http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc190/stankbone/DSC00583.jpg)
Now if I can just get the fuel pump back together and working again... :)
Fixed and improved [thumbsup] [beer]
Wow great job!! Seems much sturdier than the OEM plastic connections.
Any clearance problems with the other ends of the QDs connected?
Quote from: pompetta on January 19, 2009, 06:26:32 AM
Any clearance problems with the other ends of the QDs connected?
That is a good question. I have not mounted it yet, the stock one is still on my bike. There is a lot of room under the S4Rs tank in that area when the tank is down - but I have re-routed and moved so much stuff I'm not sure what it would be like stock. Then I have not checked the clearance when the tank is up. The casting has plenty of room under the pressure regulator to screw the 'IN' fitting all the way down so there is another 1/4" of clearance or so. The out fitting is more of a problem. I measured about 1/4" of spare metal cast at the inside/top that I drilled out to get the tap in deeper. To get the threads cut any wider, I'd have to cut the end of the tap off. It bottomed out so I stopped there. With a little more work I could get that fitting to screw down flush too. Maybe that will be stage 2...
Quote from: Bill in OKC on January 19, 2009, 10:19:49 AM
That is a good question. I have not mounted it yet, the stock one is still on my bike. There is a lot of room under the S4Rs tank in that area when the tank is down - but I have re-routed and moved so much stuff I'm not sure what it would be like stock. Then I have not checked the clearance when the tank is up. The casting has plenty of room under the pressure regulator to screw the 'IN' fitting all the way down so there is another 1/4" of clearance or so. The out fitting is more of a problem. I measured about 1/4" of spare metal cast at the inside/top that I drilled out to get the tap in deeper. To get the threads cut any wider, I'd have to cut the end of the tap off. It bottomed out so I stopped there. With a little more work I could get that fitting to screw down flush too. Maybe that will be stage 2...
would a 90° fitting at the fuel pump help?
Excellent work Bill! I believe 90 deg "out" fittings are available, which is what I plan on using.
I just pulled off my seat, fender, regulator, and tank....construction on the subframe begins soon :D I will modify my flange at that time as well. Holy crap there is a lot of work to do before bike week.
Thanks for the comments. I think you mean a regular 90 Degree fitting and then use in-line quick disconnects wherever it is convenient? I like that idea. Or is there a 90 degree quick disconnect? I'll look. I screwed up and these fittings are not valved so I have to get new ones anyway.
Quote from: Bill in OKC on January 19, 2009, 10:53:09 AM
Thanks for the comments. I think you mean a regular 90 Degree fitting and then use in-line quick disconnects wherever it is convenient? I like that idea. Or is there a 90 degree quick disconnect? I'll look. I screwed up and these fittings are not valved so I have to get new ones anyway.
Omega.com sells each end of the quick-disconnect separately, including 90° fittings.
What size fittings did you end up using? I am considering this mod as the stock fittings on my Monster fuel pump are crap.
I have not used it yet, but the final configuration will use this:
(http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc190/stankbone/90405.jpg)
and valved inline quick disconnects yet to be determined.
What diameter and threading did you end up tapping in the fuel pump?
I used a 1/4" npt tap.
Quote from: Chchadder on February 22, 2009, 08:48:13 PM
What diameter and threading did you end up tapping in the fuel pump?
ill go in with a set of 2 with you and well do both your pump and my pump since im taking the tank to drop the engine off.
+1 for me.
Why not just go with a 90 deg threaded quick disconnect out of the tank though? Instead of the barb thing ?
$14 right here
http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc_lg.asp?ref=ftlc&Nav=GREL11 (http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc_lg.asp?ref=ftlc&Nav=GREL11)
Regardless of where you put the quick disconnects, get shut-offs on both halves.
And when fitting them, orient the feed and return line quick disconnects in opposite directions so as to never confuse them.