Hey Will, ...... are you out there? I've got to bring the 999 to you for fixing. One day, out of the blue, the immobilizer quit seeing the key. Any of the keys for that matter. I can start it and run it using the 5 throttle manual override. It'll restart with the starter button like normal if I shut it off with the kill switch or stall it just as long as I don't cycle the key off and then back on. If it doesn't kill me to get it fixed I'll have the valve clearances checked and adjusted (if Parts has all the gaskets, etc.).
Poor 999. :(
hey, thats my name.
bring her down.
did it happen all the sudden or was something else done at the same time?
i got what i need to do the valves too.
lets hope it is not the dash.
this sounds silly, but unplug the dash, clean the plug, aplly some dielectric grease and replug, you may be okay.
I'm set to bring it in on Saturday and leave it. Dave said no appointment needed but that's the first day I have open.
It happened out of the blue, all of a sudden. I rode into Kailua town to get gas on the way to a Sunday ride. No work has been done to it in weeks and it gets ridden every weekend. Stopped, filled up, turned the key, hit the switch, nothing. I noticed the check engine light on when I switched on the key but thought I might have brushed the kill switch by accident. Nope, proper position. At first I thought it might be the ignition switch. Finally, it dawned on me to perform the flashing code light throttle twist override and it was a good thing I wrote the procedure down a long time ago and stuffed it in my wallet. That's how I start it now.
It's not silly to suggest the plug and grease deal. I didn't use any grease but I did unplug the dash a couple of times. No dice. Unplugged the connector to the antenna ring too with no success. I noticed that after plugging the dash back in it seems to take a while to settle in. That is, all the normal lights and stuff don't work right away but after a minute or so of sitting the next time I switch on the ignition everything is OK except for the existing problem.
The only other thing I can tell you is that once in a great while if I push the start button too soon, before it does all the sweeps and dash face initialization, and the starter kind of hiccups during the start the check engine light comes on. Then I shut it off and cycle through another start procedure. That seems to make it all happy again.
Other than that I think the bike runs like a champ. It has the occasional backfire and hiccups now and then. I think that stuff is nothing. It's also running the DP ECU with full equal length Termi exhaust. We'll see I suppose. I feel like my beautiful trophy wife done dumped me and run off with another man. pregnant dog! ;D
okday,
see her soon
thank you for good info
Quote from: mac900 on May 15, 2008, 12:20:03 AM
I feel like my beautiful trophy wife done dumped me and run off with another man. pregnant dog! ;D
Should have kicked that pregnant dog to the curb a long time ago!! ;) NOT!
Up until recently I've had a long history of loving women who were a lot of trouble, some way more than others, but still. I have high maintenance taste but not the budget that goes along with it. [laugh]
Quote from: mac900 on May 15, 2008, 03:56:17 PM
Up until recently I've had a long history of loving women who were a lot of trouble, some way more than others, but still. I have high maintenance taste but not the budget that goes along with it. [laugh]
God can I ever relate to that!!
The T9 is down at the shop now. Will, one thing I forgot to mention to Ivan when I dropped it off is that there is an ON/OFF toggle switch up on the left side of the steering neck. That is a live wired switch to turn the fans on & off manually. It should be in the OFF position all the time unless the engine temp is over 200*. It will run the battery down if toggled to ON and the engine is not running.
I purposely did not mention anything to Ivan about adjusting valves as I want to get to the bottom of the no start problem first. My pockets aren't that deep to go full on without a care at this time.
Uh, one more thing....... This bike is in the production range to qualify for the oil cooler recall. I had asked Ivan to check if it was fitted with the offending cooler. What say you?
i'll take a gander tomarrow
[threadjack]
Will, do you know whatever happened with that Sport1000? I heard from a buddy that it sold.
[/threadjack]
Will ----- I had a change of mind about the valve adjustment. For now just get the immobilizer problem solved and we'll address the valve clearances later, OK? --- I'll give a call in the morning just to confirm. Thanks.
Quote from: mac900 on June 08, 2008, 07:31:44 PM
Will ----- I had a change of mind about the valve adjustment. For now just get the immobilizer problem solved and we'll address the valve clearances later, OK? --- I'll give a call in the morning just to confirm. Thanks.
got it
What is this procedure?
flashing code light throttle twist override and it was a good thing I wrote the procedure down a long time ago and stuffed it in my wallet. That's how I start it now.
my immobilizer kept me prisoner for a half an hour today at the 7-11 when i stopped to get smokes. Finally after taking the key out and putting it back in and trying it like 40 times it let me start it up. piece of shit why would they make these stupid things? anyways that procedure would do me a wealth of good right now.
First off the key to the immobilizer problem is that A) the Check Engine MIL lamp stays on after you have switched on the ignition and the gauges/instrument cluster have done their sweep self test. (MIL - malfunction indicator light) and B) when the starter button is pushed nothing happens, no starter crank, nothing.
You have to rule out a weak battery and a possible activation of the engine kill switch.
To run the procedure you also need to know the 5 digit electronic start code sequence (i.e. 33145 for example)
Open throttle wide open and wait for MIL light to go out. Get ready to count flashes. After the light flashes the number of the first digit then full throttle until light goes out. Count the next number of flashes and open throttle again. Do that for each of numbers in the sequence. After the last number hold throttle wide open until light goes out. You should be good to go then.
It can cost thousands to fix this problem.
Quote from: mac900 on July 04, 2008, 05:24:23 PM
First off the key to the immobilizer problem is that A) the Check Engine MIL lamp stays on after you have switched on the ignition and the gauges/instrument cluster have done their sweep self test. (MIL - malfunction indicator light) and B) when the starter button is pushed nothing happens, no starter crank, nothing.
You have to rule out a weak battery and a possible activation of the engine kill switch.
To run the procedure you also need to know the 5 digit electronic start code sequence (i.e. 33145 for example)
Open throttle wide open and wait for MIL light to go out. Get ready to count flashes. After the light flashes the number of the first digit then full throttle until light goes out. Count the next number of flashes and open throttle again. Do that for each of numbers in the sequence. After the last number hold throttle wide open until light goes out. You should be good to go then.
It can cost thousands to fix this problem.
yeah thats exactly what mine is doing. .....
How do i find out what the code is?
It's supposed to come with the bike when you buy it, along with one red key & two black keys (and the key code for the cut of the keys). If you bought the bike used then the former owner should have supplied you with this stuff. It's all covered in the owner's manual. If you don't have it maybe the dealer can find out. If you or the dealer can't find this stuff you are definitely screwed and you might still be screwed even yet. [bang]
And this is why we all love high maintenance Italian supermodels.
What year bikes have the immobilizer and what year doesnt?
if it followed the change to EFI, then it's be around '01 for monsters.
the 749-999 have it as well.
Might be around 2003 for that system introduction. The latest models have a more tolerant setup according to Will.
ah... so they switched w/the newer ECU, then?
Possibly. I forget what the exact deal is because IT DOESN'T MATTER IN MY CASE AND MAKES NO DIFFERENCE TO ME. Will was just trying to make me feel better by letting me know the new ones aren't so bad. Maybe it was a subtle suggestion to get a new one? Sell the 999. Sell the Monster. Buy 1098. Still be in hole. [laugh]
For SaltLick the best you can hope for is that you have an antenna problem. After that, hoo boy.
yellow one on craigslist... in your neck o'the woods, even ;)
Really? That must be a brand new post. Just the usual suspects were there yesterday. I'll go check. But the sad truth is that I can't touch any of the CL offerings because the bike isn't running and I can't sell it unless it is running and I need to sell it to have money to buy something else. Frick!
http://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/mcy/743032549.html
;)
WTF? it's raining??? ghey! :(
What is a "stray braket"? A "braket" that's loose and running around? And, what is a "braket"? I know what a bracket is. $13K? That better be some seriously minor problems. Plus it's yellow and it needs some price reduction for that alone. [laugh]
fig'd you'd get a kick out of it ;D
Yea, replacing/repairing body panels on those things is BIG BUCKS! That's why I stayed away from the 996 that I wanted to buy when I first moved here. Over a thousand dollars just for the right side fairing and controls!! :o
That thought rarely leaves my mind when I throw the 999 into a turn. Actually I should say when I used to throw it into a turn.
Tell me about it. I thought I was going to lay the Daytona down coming down my street the day I got it. That thing litterally falls with such minimal "english". The thought of replacing body panels on a brand new bike sent the pucker factor to astronomical heights!!
The first thing to do, absolutely the first and most basic thing is to make sure you have a good battery and the charging system is working properly. I'm not kidding. Your problem sounds like that. The immobilizer is usually not an intermittent problem. Far too many people overlook or discount the battery/charging system. The fact that your sweep is half-assed at times leads me to suspect low charge.
The keys do have chips in them but that is almost never the problem. The dash recognizes the key and unlocks the ECU to start & run.
Start with the battery. At least check battery voltage with a digital voltmeter when this is happening. If it's dropping below 11 volts when you switch on the ignition this could be the whole cause.
Waiting to hear what developed down at South Seas today...
[popcorn]
Ivan had the day off.
Arlen tried to be helpful and told me they are still waiting for the dash and the ECU.
That's it so far.
Quote from: mac900 on July 14, 2008, 10:48:01 PM
Arlen tried to be helpful and told me they are still waiting for the dash and the ECU.
That's very helpful of him.
In all fairness to Alan, he just reported what he could figure out. There's no way he is going to be on top of every little detail of every job that is in the shop and especially one where there is more going on than the standard Ducati twists and turns.
The situation is going about as nicely as it could.
South Seas is handling this as good as anyone, and perhaps even better than most. The major bug-a-boo variable in this whole mess is Ducati itself. They can be great bikes when they are working (given enough modifications and tweaking) but if they stop working then watch out.
So...?
Quote from: DRKWNG on July 17, 2008, 06:01:06 PM
So...?
Stay tuned. It turned out that the most cost effective solution (so far) is to go with the factory parts. The ECU turned up this week. Soon, maybe......
got your call, plan on finishing it monday.
my house computer is out of wack, just using a friends.
thank you for you understanding
Thank you Will.
Just for the purposes of good thread closure this is how things finished up. The bike needed a new dash. That wasn't the end of it. Once it got the new dash it wouldn't recognize the key. This bike had the DP Termignoni full exhaust & DP ECU installed way back when it was new. It turned out that the red key had it's chip removed so it would work with the original ECU that was most likely sold off. (Will's theory). Will had a spare chip that he installed into the red key (saving me the cost of having to buy new keys and ignition switch -- thanks again, Will) --- So we had a new dash and key but the ECU was coded to the original red key chip and once coded that's it. It wants the original chip. So we needed to get a new DP Performance ECU. Waited weeks again for that but finally got it in and everything coded together. The bike now starts like it's supposed to and runs like a champ (which it always did, hey it runs even a bit better now that the throttle bodies were set). It costed lots of $$$$.
If I had a crystal ball and could have seen how things were going to work out I would have gone a different route. That's unknown too and who knows how that would have turned out. No one could have seen how all this was going to turn out. My plan B was to get a Nemesis aftermarket race ECU (still made by Marelli) that would bypass the immobilizer function. However it cost more than the dash and at first we thought we only needed the dash (there was no way we could know about the key chip issue until we had a dash that could "see" the key. The Nemesis comes with some maps and you can also dyno tune and custom create your own maps so it would take some time & money to sort it out. There was another kicker though.
Ducati (not the dealer but corporate Ducati) has a huge penalty percentage part return charge once the parts have been ordered. 20% of the retail price. If the return charge dollar ding were added to the price of tuning the Nemesis there wouldn't have been much of a cost differential between that and staying with the factory setup. That and the guys down at South Seas helped me out a bit so all was good. It's just goofed up that Ducati used the "Red" key marker to unlock & lock the ECU during that production time. Now it's different, there are no more red keys and the Mathesis can use the regular keys to get in and out of the ECU.
SaltLick ---- how did your bike turn out? What was the deal with it?
Quote from: SaltLick on July 30, 2008, 11:19:22 AM
I have it sort of figured out, my bike doesnt like it when you put the key in and leave it in for any amount of time without starting the bike. I have had luck with putting the key in and immediatly starting it. Likewise when i stop the bike first thing i do is take the key out (if i run into the store) No problems when i do that. Problems come in say if i sit on my bike, put the key in, then put my helmet on gloves on put it in neutral and try to start it. Or if i leave the key in to take a smoke break on the side of the road. Definite no no.
That is very strange. ???