well the title sounds weird but i wanted to see if anybody has had this problem....
When i got my 620d the rear brake lever was bent so i replaced it, and therefore
ive been trying to bleed them for the past two weeks, and i cant be successful.
when ever i turn the screw it either doesn't come out or it leaks from under the screw...
this is the first bike im having a problems with. Any kind of help would be greatly appreciated.
I tried using the motrax little bleeder, and with just the tube and patience, but neither work.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y135/firematador/img1242218033034.jpg)
I've never used one of those, I use a MightyVac sometimes, but let me see if I can help.
I don't know your experience nor mechanical abilities so I'll start fromt the begining.
First, of course connect the tubing in a way that you can get a wrench on your brake nipple.
Second, pump brake and hold lever down.
Loosen nipple VERY slowly till brake lever bottoms, tighten nipple.
repeat untill no bubbles come out of nipple.
If that doesn't work, tap around on the caliper/master cylinder with a screwdriver handle or some other non marring plastic 'hammer'. This may loosen up some trapped bubbles.
If that doesn't work, it may pay to take off all brake plumbing and hang vertically while you bleed. This may free up some trapped air.
Hope that helps,
Steve
You're going to get a lot of help posting this in the tech section.
I have yet to bleed the brakes on my bike but I have done the clutch several times. Hopefully this method works for both. Make sure you are using DOT4.
1. Wrap sensitive areas with towels as brake fluid is highly corrosive.
2. Fill the rear brake reservoir to the max line. Watch this as you bleed and make sure it doesn't dip below the min. You will probably have to fill this several times.
3. Ensure the banjo and bleeder bolts are tight (on both master and slave).
4. Connect a snug hose to the bleeder nipple and run it to a container (as you have pictured).
5. Fully pump the rear brake lever 3-4 times and hold it down.
6. Holding the brake lever down, barely turn the bleeder bolt open. A stream of brake fluid will start to come out. Close the bolt when stream appears to slow down. This should happen very suddenly. You shouldn't have the bleeder open for more than 1-2 seconds.
7. Repeat step 6 until the stream is free of air bubbles. Watch the reservoir level.
8. Tighten all bolts, fill reservoir to max line, and have a beer.
I can't add much to either post. Both are spot on and the exact same thing I would say. [thumbsup] Sorry for all the trouble. I had some trouble getting Lisa's 999 front brakes to pump up and behave recently. Sometimes they just want to cause trouble for no good reason. [bang]
yeah thats exactly what i did, but nothing comes out, :'(
Does the banjo bolt on your brake master cylinder have a bleeder nipple on it?
i dont think it does, but i ended up taking it to the dealership, they said it might have a leak somewhere, but that thell check it out
hopefully they dont screw me over, and need a new bike...lol
You could have a leaking piston seal. I would have put a bleeder type banjo bolt on the master cylinder and tried bleeding from there. Don't let that dealership do any work without telling you what the problem is. It might be fixed easily and at little to no cost.
yeah the dude told me he was going to list everything for me and call before they fix/do anything (hope it happens like that though, havent had good experience w/ dealerships)
Ok, here's my best piece of advice for you:
Speedbleeders. I just put them on my bike, and it makes all the difference for brakes. You need to remove the bleeders from the caliper and replace it - its coated to prevent air from seeping in during the process.
With speedbleeders, you loosen it just the small amount you would normally do to bleed, only nothing will come out. Its fantastic, you don't have to screw/unscrew quickly or anything like that. Just pump the brake pedal and keep the reservoir full. Make sure that its pure fluid coming out (when it finally comes) and bubble free.
What "dealership" have you been talking to? Just curious. Also, are you saying that you are doing what has been suggested in these posts regarding bleeding brakes and absolutely nothing is coming out of the bleed nipple/valve? Nothing? Even when you pump the rear brake peddle as the nipple/valve is opened no fluid moves through the bleed tubing? Does your rear brake even work? What started this urge to attempt to bleed the rear brake to begin with? Not tossing stones here, just asking questions to help me figure out what the hell the deal is.
Quote from: ato memphis on May 13, 2009, 03:09:43 PM
With speedbleeders, you loosen it just the small amount you would normally do to bleed, only nothing will come out. Its fantastic, you don't have to screw/unscrew quickly or anything like that. Just pump the brake pedal and keep the reservoir full. Make sure that its pure fluid coming out (when it finally comes) and bubble free.
You lost me, big time.
Quote from: alexisonfire on May 13, 2009, 07:43:58 PM
You lost me, big time.
Ok, i think i made it sound too complex: you open the screw like normal. pump brake. fluid comes out by pushing internal ball aside. as soon as you let go of the pedal, the ball seals it shut, so no air can get back in. when you are all done, close the screw up, and its finished.
its designed to simplify by removing the second hand, wrench turning open-close requirement.
has any work been done on the pedal or any adjustments made perhaps before all this? (maybe new rearsets or something?)
when i got the bike the brake lever was bent, but it did work, and when i got a replacement, it needed to bleed
and sounds like the motrax little bleeder sounds very similar to what you talking about (speedbleeders)
http://www.intobikes.co.uk/products?detail=product&st=pt&id=000103 (http://www.intobikes.co.uk/products?detail=product&st=pt&id=000103)
and i took it to bmw european cycles in plano
Nope, though thats a neat product. Here's the link:
http://www.speedbleeder.com/ (http://www.speedbleeder.com/)
it sounds like you may have the return port on the master cylinder blocked. If you adjust the pin that actuates the piston to a certain point, it will block the port and not allow any fluid in or out of the reservoir...
You may be on to something with that. [thumbsup]
that sounds feasible (haha thinking im smart)
I'm wondering why it is necessary to bleed the system when replacing a lever? Is the lever intimately connected to the plumbing of the rear brake M/C?
if it 'worked' before, what was adjusted/changed when the new lever was installed?
Steve
I don't think it is connected like that - intimately to the plumbing, as you said. I just undid the stock connection and lever of my rear brake and moved everything to a set of rearsets. The plunger is activated by a small linkage (which you replace when using some rearsets).