Here's the look I want:
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n193/tonyranieri/Post%20Mods/IMG_1821.jpg)
Basically, the paint on the pipes in the pic was perfect looking, exactly what I wanted but it was also very soft, my helmet just touching one when hanging it from my under-seat strap made an easily noticeable shiney mark and some chemicals when cleaning ate at the finish a bit and also created weird shiney spots where it dripped. Right now for reasons beyond my control the bike is in storage and the cans are on a shelf, to the touch the paint on the cans still will leave black residue all over my hands if I pick them up.
I like the enamel casing and durability of semi-gloss but for these pipes I simply must have flat black. The paint used last time was Plasti-Koat (I think), I believe I need something that will create more of a shell and will not be soft. I will also need to remove my header to repaint that. I need to mask off the rivvets and ends of the pipes, I also assume I need to scuff them a bit. If I need to strip the pipes down to bear metal I am tempted to scrap the entire project and just buy Termis.
Any general advice? Reccomendations for good paint? Would I be smarted to take these somewhere to get powdercoated instead? I want a durable flat black finish, I also need to figure a smart way to mask the rivvets and the ends. Any tips would be greatly appreciated, I might try to tackle this over the weekend. [thumbsup]
Dupli-Color low gloss engine enamel, or take the pipes off and have them ceramic coated..
Quote from: ProTeal55 on June 26, 2009, 06:22:35 AM
Dupli-Color low gloss engine enamel, or take the pipes off and have them ceramic coated..
even the low gloss is too much shine... do they make a flat that will hold up just as well?
I'm with pro teal, I would pay the 80 bucks to have em ceramic coated. I had flat for about 2 days, it kept scuffing.
You could try a product by Rust-Oleum called Hi-Temp Grill Paint. However since they are already painted you would have to do some scuffing of the existing finish, followed by thorough cleaning with soap and isopropyl alcohol. Prep is as important for a tough, even finish as the type of coating itself. I used this product, was very careful with prep and applied it in 5 or 6 light coats, waiting until good and dry and rubbing with a fast food napkin between coats to remove loose particles. The finish is durable and uniform. However, it will not be as durable and uniform as ceramic. I only painted the stock aluminum muffler enclosures, the rest of my exhaust is ceramic coated. I recommend for your satisfaction that you pack up your exhaust and send it to a ceramic coater. For steel, ceramic is the only thing that will adhere properly and not flake off.
Not saying I am an expert by any means, but I have painted my share of pipes with everything you can think of. No matter how good you prep, the type of paint you use, etc it always flakes/comes off..
Do yourself a favour and spend the cash up front and have them professionally ceramic coated. You can pick your finish, color, and then u dont have to worry about the finish coming off down the road...
agreed... I am not a pro painter so I will pay and let the pro's do it right, ceramic the same as powdercoating?
I ask because I have a place that will powdercoat, I am just not sure if that is the same thing as ceramic... I need to call them sometime this afternoon...
Thanks!
I painted my original header pipes and udder on my 05 S2R800 Dark with a flat black BBQ grill paint. Probably about 2-3 coats and it never flaked...
Got a John Deere dealer nearby? They sell an exhaust stack paint that is awesome. It goes on sort of semi-gloss black, but once heat-cured it goes flat black and is extremely durable. I've used it on headers and other various exhaust pipes many times.
Quote from: eesnas on June 26, 2009, 09:04:58 AM
agreed... I am not a pro painter so I will pay and let the pro's do it right, ceramic the same as powdercoating?
I ask because I have a place that will powdercoat, I am just not sure if that is the same thing as ceramic... I need to call them sometime this afternoon...
Thanks!
No it is not the same. Ceramic coating is much more heat resistant. On the cans you could get away with PC but ceramic is better.
you can PC the cans, they dont get that hot. its a cheaper route.
however as NAKID said, i spray paitned mine and it hasnt chipped.... you just have to make sure you let it cure for 24 hours then bake it in the oven @400 for ~1 hour before you put it on your bike. (your exahust cans will never get to 400 on the bike)
Use House of Kolor HH04
The shit will last as long as jet hot just follow the directions to the letter.
ps, any rubbing on a flat finish will make it glossy.
oooohhh. is nice in ze green!
Quote from: ProTeal55 on June 26, 2009, 07:22:32 AM
Not saying I am an expert by any means, but I have painted my share of pipes with everything you can think of. No matter how good you prep, the type of paint you use, etc it always flakes/comes off..
no flaking at all on the mufflers...although the mufflers don't see as many small rocks or as high temps...ceramic still my top recommendation
Quote from: trouble on June 26, 2009, 05:32:51 PM
ps, any rubbing on a flat finish will make it glossy.
this has not been my experience...
(http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp211/doofwop/Picture.jpg)
Quote from: ProTeal55 on June 26, 2009, 07:22:32 AM
Do yourself a favour and spend the cash up front and have them professionally ceramic coated. You can pick your finish, color, and then u dont have to worry about the finish coming off down the road...
+1
Best $80 I've spent on the Monster so far.
(http://crs-america.smugmug.com/photos/576157704_b2LB9-S.jpg)(http://crs-america.smugmug.com/photos/576157517_yUb7E-M-1.jpg)
Quote from: dlearl476 on June 28, 2009, 09:26:56 AM
+1
Best $80 I've spent on the Monster so far.
(http://crs-america.smugmug.com/photos/576157704_b2LB9-S.jpg)(http://crs-america.smugmug.com/photos/576157517_yUb7E-M-1.jpg)
Those look excellent! I notice you have all one color, I am hoping they can take my pipes apart and put new rivets in or maybe mask off sections, I want my ends and rivets to still be silver... I need to find a place this week.
They can mask off whatever you want. You may notice that I had them mask the sections of pipe on the muffler that the header pipes fit into. It's already very tight and I didn't want fitment problems that required removing the coating, even though a ceramic coating is extremely thin.
Quote from: dlearl476 on July 05, 2009, 05:22:41 PM
They can mask off whatever you want. You may notice that I had them mask the sections of pipe on the muffler that the header pipes fit into. It's already very tight and I didn't want fitment problems that required removing the coating, even though a ceramic coating is extremely thin.
Nice, I will have them mask off the ends and hopefully they can get detailed enough to mask off the rivets, or they will need to be taken apart or something... I guess I could always compromise a bit if I need to but ideally I want the rivets still silver.
Hey anybody know what the running temperature of the canasters are? I'm taking my Duc to Dinner. I'll check the temp when I get to Cotton Patch and post it. There are great Semi Gloss and Flat finishes in the DuPont Industrial Imron line to 300 degrees F but would have to be applied by spray. ???
Quote from: Dink on July 06, 2009, 03:26:27 PM
Hey anybody know what the running temperature of the canasters are? I'm taking my Duc to Dinner. I'll check the temp when I get to Cotton Patch and post it. There are great Semi Gloss and Flat finishes in the DuPont Industrial Imron line to 300 degrees F but would have to be applied by spray. ???
You can get FastBlack paint at most bike stores that has a rated temp of 1500 degrees. I can of paint is about $10.
I have a flat back paint on it, my IR reads it to be about 180degrees. The S pipes are 260 the tip of the udders are 380 the pipes them selves are over range. my max reading is 480. the part where the pipe meets the udder is 450ish
Quote from: Dink on July 06, 2009, 03:26:27 PM
Hey anybody know what the running temperature of the canasters are? I'm taking my Duc to Dinner. I'll check the temp when I get to Cotton Patch and post it. There are great Semi Gloss and Flat finishes in the DuPont Industrial Imron line to 300 degrees F but would have to be applied by spray. ???
Dinner was great,... The IR Thermometer showed 180 Degrees F maximum. I'm running Remus Ti canasters. That temperature shouldn't be any problem.