Where do y'all get your sprockets and chains from? And what do you get when you get it?
What about different sprocket sizes?
Let's hear your thoughts, inputs, wisdom . . .
I got me several hundred $ worth of work to do and want lots about my options.
See the sponsors on the left for parts. We use CA Cycleworks.
I run a 14T in front. Simple, cheap. Got a quick change carrier in the back.
CA Cycle Works. Stock gearing, Afam rear, forget which brand for front. Definitely a DID chain. From all I read they're better enough to be worth the money. You can borrow my chain breaker/riveter if you need it.
Scott
I may have an extra sprocket and chain and all kinds of other goodies.
I had the 14t front sprocket with the stock rear, 14/42. When I replaced the chain I went to 15/44, a slight change. If you're going to replace the chain, take a good look at your sprockets, you're most likely better off replacing the whole set. Then you could change your gearing if you wanted to.
Yah . . . I need to replace everything. 20+K on the chain. Almost 35K on the sprockets.
What did 15/44 do for you?
Quote from: INFIDEL on February 05, 2010, 04:14:16 AM
Yah . . . I need to replace everything. 20+K on the chain. Almost 35K on the sprockets.
What did 15/44 do for you?
Pretty much the same as 14/42. ;D
The gearing ratio for 14/42 is 3 to 1 and 15/44 is 2.93 to 1. Stock for the '03 M800 is 15/42, 2.8 to 1. It made is easier to ride around town, with the stock gearing, 25-30 mph was too fast for 1st gear and 2nd gear lugged a bit. After the gearing change, that speed range was fine for 2nd gear. I lost some speed off the top end, but the only place I've noticed the loss is the front straight at PIR. :'(
The worst part of changing chain and cogs is cleaning off the tar poo, because it inevitably leads to "Ah, there's a spot" syndrome. Before you know it, you're scrubbing your headlight. I say this not because I'm distraught, but because it's damn time consuming. I was supposed to do laundry tonight.
You people wash your bikes way too much. Just ride in the rain, it's the same thing. :P
Psh, whatever. Mine's still got the same bugsplats from my trip to the Rhody Fest last May.
Lili had a bath right before I went on my Olympia forest trip last year. She's still wearing the dirt from Neah Bay.
So there Mr. you wash your bikes too often ;D
Didn't mean you Chuch, I've seen your bike.
I won a full detail from a place in Hillsboro. She'll be cleaner than she's been since the showroom once I take her over.
Maybe one of y'all can answer this.
When reading sprocket descriptions on a site to purchase it said they should be 520. However, the manual tells me my chain is 525. Do the 2 not need to match?
Yes they do. I changed to 520 chain/sprocket when I got a new set at 12K.
Oh jeesh . . . OK. So what's the benefit of having 520 chain and sprocket vs. 525?
Why can't anything in life be as easy as Paris Hilton?
Quote from: INFIDEL on February 21, 2010, 06:24:12 AM
Oh jeesh . . . OK. So what's the benefit of having 520 chain and sprocket vs. 525?
Why can't anything in life be as easy as Paris Hilton?
520 is lighter, and won't wear as well as 525 if the bike actually makes enough power to need it, but the real benefit is price.
It is way cheaper than 525.
AHHHHHHH! Thanks.
I'm guessing my 620 doesn't need a 525 [roll]
Quote from: INFIDEL on February 21, 2010, 07:56:26 AM
AHHHHHHH! Thanks.
I'm guessing my 620 doesn't need a 525 [roll]
That'd be correct.
Yar. It'd be overkill, son.
Anyone got a spare 520 master link? Not sure if it has to be DID or not . . .
Ok, what did you do? ;)
DID is best if you can get it. The tight tolerances on DID are what make them such high quality and why they last so long.
Scott
I dunno.
One pin doesn't look like it's all the way through - or at least not as through as the other. And then I'm not sure we got them to mushroom enough but can't seem to get them to mushroom more.
I might be just being paranoid since it's the chain and such an important piece.
You want me to return your tools tonight? I can swing by after 5:30. Or tomorrow. Or are you in any rush at all?
Thanks for their use and the hints/tips. Very helpful! [bow_down]
No worries, hold on to the tools until your done. I shouldn't need it for another 9000 miles or so.
So, measuring outside plate to plate, is the master the same width on both ends as the other links? If so, you've got it together right.
The only other thing I can think of is that maybe one of the pins pushed out the back a little and so now it's not sticking out the front far enough to get a good mushroom. If that looks like it's the case, press it in to the back again, re-press the front plate back on to correct measurement, and re-mushroom it.
Also, the measurement of the mushroom is REALLY being picky. Plenty of people just crush it and go with no ill effects. Don't overthink it.
Scott
Ohhhhhhhh . . . I didn't think of trying to push the pin out from the back side! You so SMART!!! [bang]
I'm not sure about it measuring the same on both sides - I was measuring the middle. I'll have to do that again. It looks like it has a pinch point when going over the front sprocket that would/could be alleviated if I push the pin out from the other side.
I'll have to give it another try tomorrow. I'm kinda frustrated right now and shouldn't go try any more.
Anyone beside me not receive posting announcements.
I haven't either
I get PM emails but not for posts
Yeah Chuck, measure each side individually. Otherwise it could be crooked. And a patient break when you're frustrated is always a good idea.
Scott
I'm good, real good. Both sides are 16.92. I got an even press.
The chain links to either side are 17.14. Is a .22 difference acceptable? After I got the back pin to shroom. The "catch point" disappeared and the chain rolls smoothly.
Anyone . . . anyone . . . anyone?
Looks like you overpressed just a shade. It's an x-ring chain (right?) so I wouldn't worry too much if it's not binding so long as you put plenty of grease in there. If it were me I'd ride it a bit and see how it looks. If you're paranoid just order another master and install it now that you know what you're doing. ;)
Scott
Scott - That is your chain breaker / rivet tool, right? Which brand and where did you get it? It looks like the DID one which is like $150, but there are plenty out there in the $50 range. However, many of them look cheesy or say things like "not for use on bla bla bla type of chain..." Anyhow, just wondering. Chuck and I were both interested in picking one of some sort up.
Yup, $50 knock off. Towards the bottom of the page: http://www.mikesxs.net/products-7.html?category_id=7.1 (http://www.mikesxs.net/products-7.html?category_id=7.1)
I also got an extra pin just in case it snaps. I've since found out that if you grind off the rivet head before you press it out that almost never happens.
Scott
Heh, I've got the DID one, but I found it for about 90 bucks on eBay (P/N KM501E). DID advertises it as for DID ZJ rivet chain only, but man was I happy about how well it presses and rivets. Little divots that line up the old rivets and everything hits square on, the first time. Can't vouch for the cutting ability, I just use bolt cutters (safety glasses strongly recommended) on chain I'm throwing away.
We oughta compare both tools. If they're the same thing, [thumbsup] for saving cash.
Yes, let's do that one day :) I bought mine based on a user review (I think here or TOB) of someone who bought this but had a friend's DID to compare with. I think they said something to the effect that the only real difference they saw was 'Made in Taiwan' on this one and 'Made in China' on the DID. I was happy when I received it. As Ryan says, it looks very well made.
Scott
Hey Scott . . . I've called you like 11ty billion times this week . . . I was beginning to think WTF when my buddy Derek called this morning and said something like "Dude. I'm not Scott. What do you want?"
Looks like my phone did a whammy on me and scrambled some numbers/contacts.
Anyway . . . I was thinking of swinging by ~10ish and dropping off your tools. Won't need to stay or come in even. Just a quick drop off. Y'all right with that?
Call me if you can then I can get your # back in my phone.
I'e put off the valves successfully for 4 weekends in a row. I got all the tools now and really have no excuse other than Ryan makes me ride . . .
So . . . anyone wanna come hang, watch, help next weekend? I really oughtta get in there and at least make sure they're in spec. I'm pretty certain they ain't . . .
Measuring is easy, no reason to put that off. If you remember last time I did mine, it's easy to get the shims out if you set the engine to TDC and yank the belt so you can turn the cam freely. Let me know if you wan to borrow my forceps and magnet tools. I'd come help but I think we're pretty busy. I'll double check the schedeld ;)
Scott
Anyone know how to cut Lexan in a circle? :-\
Jig saw. They make special blades for it. Don't go too fast, the pressure makes it melt instead of cut.
Scott
Good lord . . . a jig saw? That's not gonna be a very good circle with my skills ;D
Quote from: INFIDEL on April 30, 2010, 08:04:50 PM
Good lord . . . a jig saw? That's not gonna be a very good circle with my skills ;D
use something to pattern your circle
put a hole in the middle of the lexan
in that hole put a little bolt and nut
tie a strin with a loop and attach to the nut
tie other end at the correct length to the jigsaw
I have that CD if ya need it... but will be at the track all day.
Thanks, but I'm already mid tear down. I'll manage I think . . .
Anyone know how to get a stripped head hex bolt out? Other than a back out? If I take this puppy out I need to be able to put it back in and I don't know if MotoCorsa has 'em and I need to be able to ride to get back and forth to work . . .
Oh hell . . . I'll probably just rip 'em and pray. >:(
I don't know if it's cheap tools or cheap bolts but this seems to happen every freaking time.
Vice grips and brute force. Some penetrating oil and a few taps with a hammer never hurt. Maybe hit it with a torch if you can. Lowe's has most bolts you'd need unless it's really something special.
When you strip allen bolts, lately I've been fond of pounding in a slightly oversized Torx bit to remove it
Scott
Heh - I hammered in a back out.
One good twist and it just shredded it's way out. Damn cheap bolt head if you ask me. >:(
So anyway . . . using the wheel and 5th gear I've done the whole TDC and valve measurements. I've got 2 that are WAY out of spec. On my way to go get some shims.
You ever come a C-hair from dropping a valve into your motor? It sure gets the heart pumping! ;D
So not enjoying this. Next time will be better for sure. But this time is a PITA.
Sliced my finger pretty good and bled all over the valve stem and in valve chamber before I noticed it. Perhaps the job required a blood sacrifice?
Alright . . . back at it. [thumbsup]
Done yet?
Nope.
Bleedin' in yer engine is worth 1-2 more hp right there. :-*
Mine stripped out really easily too. They are now two of the many bolts I'm super careful about removing and tightening.
On the plus side, Moto Corsa had them in stock and I have them waiting for you.
Oh, and the dropping the valve, that's why you take the belt off and turn it to TDC. You can still measure everything but they can't drop in when you take the keeper off.
Scott
I'll swing by tomorrow and get those from you and you can tell me how to get the stripped ones out [cheeky]
Oh, and it took me 14.5 hours including 2 trips for shims.
BUT I did score a gauge face off a defunct gauge cluster!!!
It's not the end of the world if you do drop a valve. Those itty bitty magnet pickup tools are good, or try putting compressed air to the spark plug hole to pop it back up the guide.
Did you ever watch the vids on that DIY video from ducati tech that I left at your place???
Yah, when I was all done basking in my achievement [thumbsup]
Quote from: INFIDEL on May 02, 2010, 04:25:02 PM
Yah, when I was all done basking in my achievement [thumbsup]
translation:
sitting in own poop?
My kid does that, seems to love it he smiles so much. I can picture Chuck with the same kinda smile.
Scott