I'm looking to ditching the keyed switch in favor of a toggle on/off, like track-only or race bikes. Who/Anybody done this?
I see Mad-Duc seems to have a kit available. I'm looking to do this on my M900, which should be the same as the 748/916/996 / M750 / ST2, though I'm not sitting in front of the ARCO computer, so I am not as well equipped to check.
I see there are four wires that go into the switch I believe. My belief from staring at a wiring diagram is that two are for lights, and one is the master circuit on/off switch.
I would not recommend this for anyone who will park their bike out of eyesight for any period of time, so we can bypass that concern from the get-go. Thoughts?
It's insanely easy. there are actually 3 wires, one is the ground and splits into 2.
Only one hot is the ignition circuit. the other is the parking light circuit which you can ditch on a race bike.
I'll still be riding this bike on public roads with headlight and taillight / turn signals, so I need the lights to come on when "on", but I do not (and never have) need(ed) the "parking mode". If that's what you mean.
parking mode.
Quote from: ducatiz on November 15, 2010, 07:52:44 AM
parking mode.
Not to be off-topic, but has there ever been a use for "parking mode"?
being on the side of the road at night, it's a good idea.
indeed. this is a non-night-time ride, so no worries there.
Quote from: mattc7 on November 15, 2010, 07:54:13 AM
Not to be off-topic, but has there ever been a use for "parking mode"?
I used it to drain my battery of every last bit of juice it had one day while at work.
I've seen a couple bikes ditch they keys. One, used two switches. One switch was pretty easy to access, the other required one to know where it was as it as quite hidden as a 'security' measure.
Quote from: Mike Qube on November 15, 2010, 09:08:41 AM
I used it to drain my battery of every last bit of juice it had one day while at work.
that's a good use of it. you could also just leave the headlight on. why did you need to drain the battery?
[evil]
Just replace the ignition switch with a DPST (double pole single throw) switch -- operates two independent circuits ala factory.
I usually look for the higher quality metal and higher amperage switches -- no cheap plastic ones please! Last thing you want to do is try to shut off your bike in a hurry after a plastic switch breaks.
Quote from: MotoCreations on November 15, 2010, 09:54:09 AM
Just replace the ignition switch with a DPST (double pole single throw) switch -- operates two independent circuits ala factory.
I usually look for the higher quality metal and higher amperage switches -- no cheap plastic ones please! Last thing you want to do is try to shut off your bike in a hurry after a plastic switch breaks.
the DPST switch is needed if you want to preserve the parking lamp circuit, otherwise a SPST is fine.
and double +1 on the metal switch -- that means the base too.
reputable brand?
Get a good, sealed MilSpec switch, or at least an oil-spray-tight sealed switch.
For example:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#military-specification-electrical-switches/=9qdokp (http://www.mcmaster.com/#military-specification-electrical-switches/=9qdokp)
The standard auto parts store switches are crap, IME.
OK for non-critical stuff, if mounted inside a car.
found these with a quick search
weathersealed
http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.cfm?Ne=3025&ci_id=154286&N=3668&la_id=1 (http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.cfm?Ne=3025&ci_id=154286&N=3668&la_id=1)
(http://sensing.honeywell.com/client_asset/document/1/5/6/4/2/1/document_A342BB2B-B5CD-23A8-B2376B33D4097901.jpg)
love the red switch
http://sccatalog.honeywell.com/pdbdownload/images/32nt391.series.chart.1.pdf (http://sccatalog.honeywell.com/pdbdownload/images/32nt391.series.chart.1.pdf)
http://www.competitionproducts.com/Taylor-Master-Disconnect-Switch-4-Post-Mag-Alternator/productinfo/1033/ (http://www.competitionproducts.com/Taylor-Master-Disconnect-Switch-4-Post-Mag-Alternator/productinfo/1033/)
howza bout that?
edit: just saw the milspec ones and such
Quote from: a m on November 15, 2010, 11:52:04 AM
http://www.competitionproducts.com/Taylor-Master-Disconnect-Switch-4-Post-Mag-Alternator/productinfo/1033/ (http://www.competitionproducts.com/Taylor-Master-Disconnect-Switch-4-Post-Mag-Alternator/productinfo/1033/)
howza bout that?
looks like hell
it does. hoping to find a more attractive alternative.
for those with immobilizers;
you can run a hidden switch in conjunction with a wireless fob.
just take the chip out of your key (a reversable procedure) and wire a hidden switch somewhere. remove the lock mechanism and place the antenna where you like (I recommend not altering the antenna in any way. its a bit of black magic in there).
with everything finished up, place the key fob over the antenna when you flick the switch. the light will blink once and stay off. If someone finds the switch they can turn the bike on but not start it, seems sketchy but if your relying on a thief's inability to hotwire the bike for safety then your kinda fooling yourself anyway.
also leaves a really, really nice spot to mount an electric port.
It's sort of expensive, but how about one of them transponder ignitions, hold the key fob near it, turn the bike on. Looks really cool too!
that would be pretty cool. Looking at getting an on-off switch and making it protrude nearly identically to where you formerly put the key into it.
Milli's Monster needs a keyed ignition... i do not. so what comes off of mine, may move onto hers.
oh, to explain: milli is my wife. i just bought her a fixer-upper.
i don't quite have an on-off switch, but i do have a push button start right by my ignition. was very simple. later i would like to wire a universal harley style ignition switch hidden somewhere.
Looking at doing something similar.... [thumbsup]
Quote from: a m on November 15, 2010, 04:27:20 PM
that would be pretty cool. Looking at getting an on-off switch and making it protrude nearly identically to where you formerly put the key into it.
Milli's Monster needs a keyed ignition... i do not. so what comes off of mine, may move onto hers.
the surround for the key is seperate from the guts. cut a piece of metal or plastic and epoxy it on the inside. then you just drill what you need for the switch.
alternatively, use the footprint of that piece to make a template and do something low and flush.
Quote from: TAftonomos on November 15, 2010, 08:21:33 PM
Looking at doing something similar.... [thumbsup]
+1 on the M-Lock
Quote from: xcaptainxbloodx on November 15, 2010, 08:28:05 PM
the surround for the key is seperate from the guts. cut a piece of metal or plastic and epoxy it on the inside. then you just drill what you need for the switch.
alternatively, use the footprint of that piece to make a template and do something low and flush.
i knew that, i have carbon and billet ones sitting around. I'm hoping to make it protrude as though its a key, but be hollow inside. Save a bit of weight, but looks will be very similar to stock.
like a dummy key? I dunno man, leaving a bike parked with what would appear to be the key in the ignition is just asking for people to mess with it.
The m-lock isn't going to be exactly plug and play. They only provide a single pole, single throw relay and as others have mentioned you need a separate circuit for the lights and the ignition.
I'd go with the "tear the guts out of the stock lock and use a screwdriver method"
Mind you, I've got the m-unit and I've been seriously considering getting the m-lock (the m-unit only requires a few milliamps going through the old key switch to turn the bike on)
Quote from: Drunken Monkey on November 16, 2010, 12:17:06 AM
The m-lock isn't going to be exactly plug and play. They only provide a single pole, single throw relay and as others have mentioned you need a separate circuit for the lights and the ignition.
g the m-lock (the m-unit only requires a few milliamps going through the old key switch to turn the bike on)
if you check out the wiring diagram, you can bridge the connection for the lights so that they come on and turn off with the ignition.
Quote from: xcaptainxbloodx on November 16, 2010, 10:13:10 PM
if you check out the wiring diagram, you can bridge the connection for the lights so that they come on and turn off with the ignition.
I double checked and you're right. In "park" mode, the ignition switch bypasses the main relay to power the 'parking" lights.
So in theory you only have to run the relay through the 3 and 6 connections and you can short out the 2 and 6 ones (and the other wires are just to confound would-be hot wiring)
today is my birthday and apparently my lovely wife Milli had listened while i bored here with my garage diatribes. She had gotten the switch unit from Mad-Duc. i took off part of today, did a little dremeling on the cf ignition cover, and mounted it up. direct plug and play, everything works as it should. would have been more perfect if it could have been put under neath the cf ignition cover with just the switch protruding, but it works well as it is.
picture:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/TOaNEtgZ3NI/AAAAAAAAF1Q/u535IE5NU58/s800/IMG_2953.JPG)
also in the pic, a new billet steering stem bolt for the old school stems - this is the 'revolver' from motowheels, and the 'swirl' i formerly had is now on milli's bike. when i get newer upgrades, her monster gets my monsters present/past upgrades. (worked with racetech forks, ima triples, dp gauges and many other things so far)
Looks nice. I'll be doing this for my trackbike as soon as I have enough money to get some stuff fixed for it.
that looks great [thumbsup]