This is such a huge rip off, i really cant believe they are selling it for THAT much. its also like its a joke, but i know its not.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ducati-MS2R-S4-MS4R-MS4RS-Starting-Starter-Upgrade_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ26otnQ3d5Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d5073845839918381760QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em7QQcategoryZ35617QQitemZ150442500112 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ducati-MS2R-S4-MS4R-MS4RS-Starting-Starter-Upgrade_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ26otnQ3d5Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d5073845839918381760QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em7QQcategoryZ35617QQitemZ150442500112)
They've got to pay for all the marketing...."...enhances your pride of ownership..." [laugh]
The odd thing is, everyone I know with these loves them. Seriously perks up their starting.
I don't personally own 'em, but I do plan of ripping off their design and making my own for 1/3 the price.
Or you could get the $36.00 one from Powerlet, that's what I did. I haven't had to press the start button more than once since installing it...
whoops, i mean $30.00
http://www.powerlet.com/product/ducati-starter-rewire-kit-st2st4st4s-916/295 (http://www.powerlet.com/product/ducati-starter-rewire-kit-st2st4st4s-916/295)
:)
Quote from: xarlo on November 20, 2010, 02:08:23 AM
whoops, i mean $30.00
http://www.powerlet.com/product/ducati-starter-rewire-kit-st2st4st4s-916/295 (http://www.powerlet.com/product/ducati-starter-rewire-kit-st2st4st4s-916/295)
:)
Yeah but that doesn't come with cable ties or steel wool!
I put it on my watch list :D
steel wool? you wish! tahts just a piece of a Brillo pad!
$30 bucks in my opinion is worth it, however im still going to make my own since i want to re route the connection around the back of the engine to the starter relay instead of having it up front.
Maybe it was supposed to be $12.00 but the decimal was put in the wrong place? $120 seems pretty outrageous for what looks like something anybody could put together with some bits from the local auto parts and/or hardware stores.
Anyone have a source for the copper plated hardware?
i cant find the exact same thing, but mcmasters has a bunch of stuff you could get by with. though theres also nothing wrong with cutting the old one out and reusing it, unless you really really wanted copper. I dont know how much of a "choke point" the connectors are, imagine they arent that bad.
would just lower gauge wire really help the starting as much as they show in the video? or was that probably because the person finally cleaned off the contacts when installing new wires, thus the better connection?
how much of what they say is true about the oem wires being shit? i understand how voltage flows and i know that some metals conduct better then others. after watching the video it reminds me of my 848 when i start it in the morning. there is a second or 2 delay when i press the start button before the engine starts to crank and when it does it sounds like its just barley able to do so. its done that since the day i bought it so i never thought to give it a second thought till now. perhaps i should pull out my old 8 gage copper cables with gold plated terminals from my old car amp systems that i have and replace the cable from the starter to the battery... what are your thoughts?
I recall a thread or two about this starting issue on the old board....but no one ever answered the question of why it happens when the bike's hot, but not when the bike's cold...with the cold bike, it's usually an undercharged battery
And I can't believe I'm sitting here watching hadesducati848's icon cartoon in it's entirety [laugh]
enjoy [laugh]
we should apply the same logic to the charcoal canister removal kit that was some $30+ ;)
I used to use copper terminals when doing car audio installations, capacitors, distribution blocks, amp kits, etc. You can order stuff online or go somewhere like myer emco and get some heavy gauge wire and crimp some terminals on it, and be done with it. 4 ga is what i used for distro blocks and can be found for about a buck a ft.
Might be able to use one of these:
http://www.jambrass.com/copper_lugs_copper_terminals.htm (http://www.jambrass.com/copper_lugs_copper_terminals.htm)
http://www.conexmetals.com/copperterminals.htm (http://www.conexmetals.com/copperterminals.htm)
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=copper+terminal&_sacat=0&LH_Price=..200%40c&_dmpt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=ducati+wheel&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313 (http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=copper+terminal&_sacat=0&LH_Price=..200%40c&_dmpt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=ducati+wheel&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313)
With 4AWG, it seems the solenoid will end up being the bottle neck. Anyone know how many amps the solenoid can pass through it?
Although not 4AWG, I got a bunch of 6 AWG wire and connectors, and a few completed starter reroute wires if anyones intrested. I can do custom lengths also.
FEATURES:
• Finely stranded tinned copper conductor (Type III)
• Color coded PVC insulation (See chart for specifics per gauge)
• Temperature Range: -20°C to 105°C
• Voltage Rating: 600V
• Resistant To: Acid, Alkalis, Abrasion, Flame, Gasoline, Oil, Ozone, Moisture, Fungus
• Applications: Connecting battery or generator to switch, starter or ground Windlass, Inverter or any high amperage equipment
COMPLIANCES:
UL Standard 1426 (BC-5W2)
AWM 1232/1283 (6-2 AWG)
AWM 1232/1284 (1 AWG - 4/0)
CSA: TEW
ABYC: E-8.14, E-9.14
Coast Guard: 33 CFR part 183 Subpart I
NMMA
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y126/hundredpercentkill/dmf%20fs/wire.jpg)
Stock on the right
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y126/hundredpercentkill/dmf%20fs/IMG00097-20101121-0855.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y126/hundredpercentkill/dmf%20fs/IMG00095-20101121-0852.jpg)
i used some welding cable for one of the large gauge grounds (motor to frame) redirected to beef up more parts of the electrical system, and i've got the powerlet cables for the other 3.
MotoElectric has similar kits for $75 for most bikes. I have the Powerlet kit on my SS and it works great, but the MotoElectric kit is far superior -- better wire, better swedging.
One of the things I do NOT like about the Powerlet kit is the connections are all 0 deg type. I'd like the battery connects to be 90 deg type like the factory wiring. The Motoelectric ones are 90 deg type.
I imagine the Powerlet will last as long as I own the bike, but having completely sealed swedges and covered ends, along iwth 90 deg terminal connects would be much nicer imho.
For the DIY'ers-
I run a TINY battery in my 900ss track bike (literally a step up from 4 D cells) and it was always 50/50 for starting or killing the battery first.
I upgraded the cables with some car audio stuff (2awg) and connectors the shop impact crimped for me. 100% improvement hot or cold engine.
If you want to make your own cable ends there's a really cheap way that i've used on cars before (trunk mount battery setups for example)
Copper pipe from the hard ware store. 1/2ID stuff is what you want.
Cut a piece (guess on the length)
Smash half of it in a vise (or under a hammer) Drill a hole for your battery bolt, bend to shape.
Clean and put your wire in the round side, crimp it as best you can (impact crimper is best but a punch and hammer will do) Heat it up and fill it with solder (flux core worked for me)
viola!
(http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:uw5AzXUXpG4ruM:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj203/mightypeniz/robocop_dollar.jpg&t=1)