(http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/9100/tripletree.jpg) (http://img842.imageshack.us/i/tripletree.jpg/)
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arrived in the mail today! ordered it only a week ago, so that means ima rebored these for my sbk forks, and managed to get the triples to me all the way from italy in a week!! amazing what a real business can do!! i think these are the first set of these triples down under aswell. to make this triple set work i have to make a fork clamp mounting system for the head lights and make up some brackets to fit the monster dials to the new upper triple. should be fun and pretty simple, just have to focus on the clean hidden design i want.
now all i need to do is drill a hole and bolt an eye into the roof of my underground garage so i can hang my monster and pull it all apart!! to go with these triples and showa sbk forks, i also have a showa 3 way rear shock, clip ons, 999 masters, twin lights, dp cf solo seat, another tank(still undecided on what colour to paint it), 5 spoke front and dss rear wheels, 999 front guard, chop the tail off, new indicators, and a few other billet/shiney parts and some currently used parts to i have to paint too (ie swingarm). should be a new monster once im finished ;D
on another note, im on my second week of having no license (which was the motivation to buy all the above and rebuild the monster since i cant ride it) and i have so far been blessed with only 2 dry days with which to walk to work! damn the govt and their nanny state speeding laws. and a small damn also goes to the weather gods and their sense of humour.
They look mighty fine.
Look forward to seeing pics of the end result
Sound like a load of things going on there.
What bike is this all happening to again?
I looked at that set of triples, they are priced really well. I just didn't want to have to source the items to put them together. Or should I say lean on my mate to make the necessary bits.
Sounds like it's going to be an amazing transformation though.
Good luck with it, looking forward to seeing it finished.
thanx guys,
mines an m800 dark. already have a few accesories such as dp billet mirors, dark seat cowl, high mount remus, tpo stacks, generic remaped ecu, relocated rectifier, no oil breather tank, and few others i prob have forgotten.
question for anyone local to caringbah that has a plastic tanked monster, i have a dp cf solo seat that fits my bike as well as pink neons would, if anyone local wants to come around, we can fit this seat to their bike and see if it works better on a plastic tank, that would be awesome!! then i can decide whether to get yet another tank, this time of the plastic variety to match the seat and the helper can decide if they would like to chase down one of these seats for themselves!! i might even throw in some laser game vouchers for the kids or kids at heart.. ;D
I'm in the local area and have the plastic tank bike you'd like to try it on.
Let me know when you'd like to try it out.
Hey Roaduser
If you would like a second bike to try the seat on I'm in Sylvania and have a S2R1000. I'd be interested in seeing your IMA triples.
I can drop over in the afternoons if it suits.
Nice looking triples! However, be careful if you have nice fancy brake lines. The sharp edges on those will scrape off the coating if you aren't careful while putting things together. I did it with my Spiegler lines and the same triples, not a big deal as far as function, but an easy blemish to avoid.
cool, big thanx to matty and andy! im happy for either or both of you to come around. if u wanna check out the triples or seat its no problem at all ill have them both at the shop, Zone 3 Laser at 3 koonya crt, from midday to 9pm tmr and midday to 6pm weds. day off thurs/fri so at home nearly anytime, pm me for details. Cheers Guys.
Xarlo, do u have the mod3 top triple? did u make up your brackets for the clocks and headlight? i know how id like to do it but always open to checking out other ppls work...
Quote from: Roaduser on March 28, 2011, 01:49:50 AM
Xarlo, do u have the mod3 top triple? did u make up your brackets for the clocks and headlight? i know how id like to do it but always open to checking out other ppls work...
I don't have the EXACT same things. My bike is an M900 with SBK forks, I just have the IMA triples with the same sharp edges. Didn't modify how my gauges or light go on at all.
bike porn! [thumbsup]
[popcorn]
Yeah it's giving me a half open pocket knife [cheeky]
still just phone photos, but here ive dummied my new front end together. getting excited ;D
(http://img862.imageshack.us/img862/4654/photo1sq.jpg) (http://img862.imageshack.us/i/photo1sq.jpg/)
(http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/1843/photofx.jpg) (http://img818.imageshack.us/i/photofx.jpg/)
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Looking good!
just hung the bike, started the pull down!! very excited ;D
(http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/3269/photo2yp.jpg) (http://img163.imageshack.us/i/photo2yp.jpg/)
(http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/5332/photo4pg.jpg) (http://img828.imageshack.us/i/photo4pg.jpg/)
(http://img807.imageshack.us/img807/2338/photo5d.jpg) (http://img807.imageshack.us/i/photo5d.jpg/)
(http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/5933/photo3uo.jpg) (http://img842.imageshack.us/i/photo3uo.jpg/)
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Got some more work done on my monster tonight! found a surprise too...
(http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/1986/photo8tv.jpg) (http://img269.imageshack.us/i/photo8tv.jpg/)
(http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/3268/photo7yd.jpg) (http://img217.imageshack.us/i/photo7yd.jpg/)
:o :o :o :o
(http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/7967/photo6m.jpg) (http://img845.imageshack.us/i/photo6m.jpg/)
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Good thing i was already intent on replacing them. i have a nice set of japans finest taper bearings ready to go in!! ;D
OMG :o :o
Isnt it funny that my '97 900 had taper rollers in (I think) when I replaced them with a new set from SKF, many years ago, but at least mine had some grease in there.
Mmick
Yep, my old '97-'98 7fiddy had good grease loaded tapers in the wheels, and even the head stem bearings, although ball type were well packed with grease and didnt really need replacing but I did it anyway and used tapers!! [thumbsup]
But the later model DS had stuff all grease in both the wheel bearings and the head stem balls, and they were all knackered!! :o
In fact I'd regard the fronts as having failed and the rears just about gone!! [roll]
I showed the fella at the bearing service and he said that even the "Brand Name" bearing people and probably more to the point, "vehicle manufacturers, are succumbing to the need to look after the "bottom line" and are getting their bearings sourced from PRC (Peoples Republic of China) and they aint real good. :o
You can still get the top of the range, good quality bearings but you have to stipulate what you want and of course pay the extra, but thats your call!! ???
I know what I want and I WILL pay for what I regard as quality (And safety in this case!?) [thumbsup]
Anybody with a late model Duc should be having a good look at all the bearings on the bike and maybe replacing them with a good known quality bearing with adequate GREASE!! [roll]
The garbage that Ducati are using, and the lack of grease is a worry!! :o
Quote from: dragonworld on April 14, 2011, 07:56:58 PM
Anybody with a late model Duc should be having a good look at all the bearings on the bike and maybe replacing them with a good known quality bearing with adequate GREASE!! [roll]
The garbage that Ducati are using, and the lack of grease is a worry!! :o
Couldn't agree more. :o
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5066/5621057514_4896f49dac.jpg)
its been well known in dirt bike circles for many many years that when you buy a brand new bike the first thing you do is pull it apart and repack all the bearings
as they use SFA grease
even crap bearings wilol lasta long time with a good packing of grease
My 4wd colorado at 30K specs a front hub regrease , the grease that was in there was rubbish , the bearings were decednt brand but had become warm and slightly discoloured from crap grease
THATS IT !
WE NEED A GREASE-A-THON!!!
Mmick
oooohhh grease a thon hmmmmm naked [drool]
can anyone please help here..
the Ducati maintenance manual shows a washer under the lower stem bearing seal. i obviously cannot recover mine due to the horrid state of that area... i am installing the before shown ima triples and thus not sure on the necessity of that washer, do u guys think that washer is vital?
i think you will find its a sealing washer as well as a spacer
fairly important imho
in saying that a good bearing supplier will prob be able to help there
thanx J5, im working a lot atm and dont have any time away during business hrs, so i was kinda hoping for a response like "nah man dont need it at all" to make me feel better about putting it together after hrs without.. haha
ill delay mt build and look around for a washer. [thumbsup]
Where did you get your new bearings from? I couldn't get my washer off, but the speedymoto bearings I got come with their own little cup to seat them in... I'm hoping that is good enough because that is all I used when I replaced mine.
dmoto sent me mine.
i have the front end on the bike now! three minor issues thus far.
with the forks tightened in the lower triple, the top triple does not slide on or off freely. it appears that tightening the bottom triple makes both the forks move forward away from the stem but its less then a mm. i have to loosen the lower triples fork clamps and put a little rearward pressure the top of the forks to get the top triple on. I'm not sure if this is common but i dont see it being a problem with the forks operation.
second issue with the clamps/stem is the bearing fit. the size and thus tolerance of the lower and upper bearings sections on the triple tree stem itself is damn near the same. it was a task to get the lower bearing past the top bearings section. the on going issue this causes is when adjusting the tension on the stem nut. if i over tighten the bearings, i can loosen and even remove the stem nut and whole front end stays in place, it has no effect on releasing the steering resistance. i have to give the stem a coupla good taps to loosen the bearings and then re tighten it to the desired tension. again I'm not sure if this is common but i don't see it being a problem with the bikes daily operation.
The issue i think ill have to Address is with the brakes. i was test fitting the front wheel and brakes last night and i wouldn't call it a perfect fit... i think it would work as it is but i think its prob best for me to space the rotors with a washer or two to centre the disc in the rotor. check the photo and tell me your thoughts guys!!
NOTE: its not quite as bad as it looks, it appears i was a little to the right (fork side) when i took this pic
(http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/113/photo6ms.jpg) (http://img96.imageshack.us/i/photo6ms.jpg/)
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Hey Roaduser
With the caliper disc clearance.
When you have the wheel back in place put the calipers back on with out the pads if it all clears and nothing touches leave it. :D
But looking at that pic if it dose touch put spacers/washers between the caliper mounting bolts, rather than the disc to wheel spacers. [thumbsup]
That sounds about right tightening up lower triple will affect alignment. ???
Adjust the steering head bearings before the top triple goes on.
Then put the top triple on.
Then Assemble the forks in top and lower triple, just nip the bolts to hold the forks in place,put the axle in, lock the axle up, then loosen the bolts to take out any misalignment and retighten the triple clamps.
Loosen the axle it should rotate and slide out freely in the lower forks.
Replace wheel ;)
thanx rob. the rotors did clear marginally but i rather things be closer to perfect if i can. and i meant space the calipers but typed rotor for some reason. for anyone readings future knowledge, regular m10 washers are 1.7-1.8mm which would have basically reversed the problem by pushing the calipers too far over, but stainless washers can be had at 1.1mm which made it damn near perfectly centered in this application :)
your instructions on forks assembly order are pretty much how i did it in the end. thank you.
i fitted a g2 throttle tamer and electraeon fast throttle cam the other day. theory is the tamer will ease the 'just on throttle' jerk that can catch you mid way through a long corner by changing the cam profile of the throttle tube. this is said to make it a much smoother ride and easier to smoothly ease on the throttle out of corners. issue here is it also makes the wot feel further away as where the butterflies once were at 1/2 throttle twist, it now takes say 3/4 throttle twist to achieve. this is why ive added the fast throttle cam on the throttle body end to bring the wot from approx 90deg throttle rotation back to about 75deg rotation.
on other bikes this could have been achieved with just a throttle tube cam change but the monster housing is not big enough to allow a large enough cam on the throttle tube. so i splashed out and got both. cant say what it has done to the riding experience yet as im still without license (as if that would stop me test riding anyway [roll] ) and the bike is still in parts. you can also see in the pics that to fit the 999 brake master i had to rotate the throttle setup so that the cable exits at the top. clashed with the banjo in its native position, and i think it looks alright out the top anyway.
at rest
(http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/9860/gripatidle.png) (http://img204.imageshack.us/i/gripatidle.png/)
wot without fast throttle
(http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/5467/gripatwotstdtbcam.png) (http://img28.imageshack.us/i/gripatwotstdtbcam.png/)
wot with fast throttle
(http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/5124/gripatwottbfastcam.png) (http://img577.imageshack.us/i/gripatwottbfastcam.png/)
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one side effect was that to take the lash out of the std throttle cable i had to screw the adjuster as far out as id like to go. but it seems fine there. you can see this in the bellow pic
while fitting up the 999 clutch master cylinder the other day i discovered i can no longer accommodate the choke/fast throttle control on the left switch block. ive removed the cable and lever and am looking at fitting a short cable with a simple round pull lever somewhere under the side of the tank. probably in an semi-unseen place that i can still reach at the first set of lights. while doing this i noticed that the choke/fast throttle wasn't actually doing anything in the first half of its range of motion. in the pic below i have manually rotated the choke lever to the point where it starts to effect the throttle cam. you can see just up from my finger that the opening in the choke lever that allows the range of rotation is actually more than half way to the end stop.
can someone look on their bike for me and see if this is the same? reason i ask is so i can properly work out how much pull movement ill need on my new fast throttle setup. i also have to double check that there isnt some kind of sensor that was picking up this first half of seemingly needless movement and triggering a change in the ecu fuel map. i didnt think of that till writing up this post but if anyone knows better about that id love to hear about it ;D
(http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/3158/choke.png) (http://img714.imageshack.us/i/choke.png/)
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well, i was torquing up my new triple clamps the other day. i looked at the Ducati manual and it states something like 24Nm. i set my torque wrench to 20 to be on the safe side as it is a cheaper wrench. i didnt get near the click before i didnt like the way it was feeling. anyone thats stripped a thread will know that soft feeling a bolt can get just before it happens. so i stopped, re checked the manual and sure enough it is what i read the first time.
my brother came home and saw what i was doing and he agreed what i had read and that these triples should handle factory specs. he grabbed the wrench and decided to feel it and proceeded to torque it further. i voiced i wasnt feeling good about that and he undone the bolt in question and sure enough out comes some flak. but it was quite a large piece of flac, larger than i would expect from stripping a bolt of that size. probably an m8/m10 bolt from memory.
i did notice bits of flak around the clamp opening too. heres to hoping it was left over flak from when they triples were bored to a larger diameter!!
i asked IMA about what torque settings they recommend and they replied 7Nm bottom and 5Nm top!! these numbers seem very low. i told them i have gone further and the reply was "I don't believe you could have any damage on threads, but it would be the forks doesn't works well....Threads and screws are able to bear greater efforts."
what are your thoughts, can 24Nm really do damage to forks? bear in mind i haven't ridden the bike yet.
would 18-20Nm on a m10 bolt strip a billet alloy triple? i will get the torch out and have a look but i doubt i can see much as its quite inset. ill also play with the bolt a little and see if there is any excessive play in it now..
hmmm.. sucky
Flack never heard that term used
In all my years usually refered swarf /cuttings/shavings or shit ;D
Never really use a tension wrench, unless torquing cylinder heads.
I just tighten up the triple with the Allen key as tight, buy hand as you can get it. [thumbsup]
to strip a good full formed 10mm thread in good alloy aluminium would take that bit extra with an extension tube on the key :P
yeah swarf is the word i would normally use but i couldnt think of it for the life of me, so flak made sense is the respect of metal pieces floating around a possibly damaged area. ;D
thanks for the peace of mind. im a little less frustrated at work now. :)