Hi,
I just got the Danmoto 180 gauge and hopefully to replace it with my OEM gauge.
Very nice, quality made gauge. Gauge is the digital tach and speedo with common light such as Neutral, Signals, and High beam.
I have a question with the tach wiring though. I have read the Ducatisuite about installing the tach and noted on my bike that where the connector (black box next to the coil under the tank by the battery) has 3 wires. My Danmoto gauge indicated only one wire for the tachometer. What are my options here guys/gals? Where do I get the harness for the tachometer?
Thanks!
which model bike?
the ignition boxes have a 3 wire plug. red is positve, black is earth and the centre wire (brown/green or grey/white?) is the coil negative. that's the one you use as a signal generally.
It's the 2000 M750
so brad, how do I tap into that middle wire for a clean looking job?
if you get it the 180 installation done, I'd love to see a tutorial, as it may well be my next mod.
+1 on the tutorial Seanster. Are the mounting studs on the back of the gauge close to the OEM mounting points?
Quote from: pitbull on July 06, 2012, 05:27:39 AM
if you get it the 180 installation done, I'd love to see a tutorial, as it may well be my next mod.
+1 [thumbsup] [Dolph]
pop the terminal out of the connector and solder the wire to it. buy another terminal and put two wires into it. buy a set of male and female connectors and terminals and make a jump harness, which is what the dp kits came with.
I'm putting one of these on the wife's De-Cafe-nated Nighthawk build... quality stuff, and straight-forward labeling to look at it. I don't think the bolts will line up with the stock location on a Duc, but for usefulness you probably want it to be mounted at a different angle.
Quote from: brad black on July 08, 2012, 03:27:41 AM
pop the terminal out of the connector and solder the wire to it. buy another terminal and put two wires into it. buy a set of male and female connectors and terminals and make a jump harness, which is what the dp kits came with.
Thanks Brad...im not very tech sawvy so im kinda confuse of what you said.
The gauge came with a bunch of wires came out from the back...one of the wires indicated to be for the tach....can i just run this wire longer to connect to the middle/negative coil wire you talk about, which located at the black box? Do i really need the male and female connectors?
I sorted a used pigtail from a M750 and will connect most or all of the wires to there for common lights....this is order for me to use the oem connector of the harness without cutting my wires. Is this okay?
Also i agreed that it is some quality stuff.
What Brad is saying:
Pull the metal terminal out of the plastic plug for a "pretty" install.
The DP install kit consists of two plugs that go in between the stock plugs with an extra "out" wire for the tach to read signal.
Quote from: seanster on July 08, 2012, 11:33:13 PM
I sorted a used pigtail from a M750 and will connect most or all of the wires to there for common lights....this is order for me to use the oem connector of the harness without cutting my wires. Is this okay?
You will still be lacking the tach signal from the oem connector as I understand.
Quote from: seanster on July 08, 2012, 11:33:13 PM
The gauge came with a bunch of wires came out from the back...one of the wires indicated to be for the tach....can i just run this wire longer to connect to the middle/negative coil wire you talk about, which located at the black box? Do i really need the male and female connectors?
Brad is talking about ways to connect the negative coil wire to the tach signal wire for the computer. You can try those evil "in-line" wire adder clamps, but in my experience they often cut whatever wire you are trying not to cut. Easier to cut the wire and add a "butt splice" crimp connector, or just solder the mess together and dab it with the liquid electrical tape.
Quote from: Dirty Duc on July 08, 2012, 11:50:47 PM
What Brad is saying:
Pull the metal terminal out of the plastic plug for a "pretty" install.
The DP install kit consists of two plugs that go in between the stock plugs with an extra "out" wire for the tach to read signal.
You will still be lacking the tach signal from the oem connector as I understand.
Brad is talking about ways to connect the negative coil wire to the tach signal wire for the computer. You can try those evil "in-line" wire adder clamps, but in my experience they often cut whatever wire you are trying not to cut. Easier to cut the wire and add a "butt splice" crimp connector, or just solder the mess together and dab it with the liquid electrical tape.
Sean,
when you do this install...please take pics!!!
Please [bow_down]
I think I better take lots of pics during my install and ask question from there...
Thank you Brad and Dirty Duc...will fire more questions at y'all if y'all don't mind answering them and found them not annoying. ;D
So I just mocking up the wires for the common lights...they all seem to work BUT not at the same time haha [laugh]
from the stock harness (pig tail) there are seem to be two ground wires (black and orange)
black was for the dash background light (i'm assuming)
orange was for the neutral and fuel light (i'm assuming)
The danmoto gauge only have one ground wire...if I don't connect any of the ground wire, or just connect the black wire (from above) the turn signals indicator light will work. However the neutral light won't work.
If I then connect the orange wire to the ground wire from the danmoto gauge = the neutral light work and the turn signal indicators won't work.
If I connect two ground wire (black and orange) to the ground wire from the danmoto gauge = the fuse burnt (this happened 5 times, yes it took that long for me to figure out, don't judge)
I don't know...any thoughts/suggestions? [coffee]
Thanks! [coffee]
Here a pic of the wires.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8287/7559987844_8a437667cb.jpg)
your bike doesn't have a tahco std? i'll email you some info from the manual, email me your address brad at bikeboy dot org.
Quote from: brad black on July 12, 2012, 10:27:00 PM
your bike doesn't have a tahco std? i'll email you some info from the manual, email me your address brad at bikeboy dot org.
Brad, unfortunately, my 2000 M750 doesn't come with tach as OEM. :(
wrote you a PM and emailed you too.
Thanks
Quote from: seanster on July 12, 2012, 09:34:02 PM
So I just mocking up the wires for the common lights...they all seem to work BUT not at the same time haha [laugh]
from the stock harness (pig tail) there are seem to be two ground wires (black and orange)
black was for the dash background light (i'm assuming)
orange was for the neutral and fuel light (i'm assuming)
The danmoto gauge only have one ground wire...if I don't connect any of the ground wire, or just connect the black wire (from above) the turn signals indicator light will work. However the neutral light won't work.
If I then connect the orange wire to the ground wire from the danmoto gauge = the neutral light work and the turn signal indicators won't work.
If I connect two ground wire (black and orange) to the ground wire from the danmoto gauge = the fuse burnt (this happened 5 times, yes it took that long for me to figure out, don't judge)
I don't know...any thoughts/suggestions? [coffee]
Thanks! [coffee]
Here a pic of the wires.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8287/7559987844_8a437667cb.jpg)
One of those wires is a hot lead, not a ground. You have a multimeter?
Quote from: Dirty Duc on July 13, 2012, 07:12:18 AM
One of those wires is a hot lead, not a ground. You have a multimeter?
Don't have a multimeter but I can get one for only $10, since I always find a way for its usefulness.
If one of those wires (Orange or Black) is the hot lead (I'm about 80% sure that it's the Orange) when what should I do?
Thanks!
Using snazzy new multimeter, figure out whether it comes on with the key or some other switch.
You can pull the back off your stock gauges to see which wires go where.
If you end up with extra hot leads, you should pull them out of the connector so they aren't banging into things and blowing fuses.
Quote from: Dirty Duc on July 13, 2012, 08:56:19 AM
Using snazzy new multimeter, figure out whether it comes on with the key or some other switch.
You can pull the back off your stock gauges to see which wires go where.
If you end up with extra hot leads, you should pull them out of the connector so they aren't banging into things and blowing fuses.
That Organge wire was with the temp and neutral light from the stock gauge. If I connect this wire into the ground wire from the danmoto then the neutral light comes on (but the turn signal lights won't). The Neutral light only work when I connect this organge wire with the ground from the danmoto.
The black is the ground for the dash back lit light from the stock gauge. With the organge wire not connect to anything, I can connect or disconnect this black wire to the danmoto ground and the turn lights will work.
If I somehowhave contact to both wires either connect one to the gram, one to the ground from danmot...the turn signal fuse will blows quickly.
What ya think?
I went out and started installing mine yesterday...
Does yours have two Blue for high beam indicator wires?
Quote from: Dirty Duc on July 16, 2012, 01:29:10 PM
I went out and started installing mine yesterday...
Does yours have two Blue for high beam indicator wires?
No my stock 750 pig tail, the highbeam is the white wire and another wire connected to it but not blue.
if you are talking about the danmoto then yes the headbeam is the solid blue color.
My danmoto has two solid blue...
Quote from: Dirty Duc on July 16, 2012, 02:28:18 PM
My danmoto has two solid blue...
Are you sure? look closely...I know there is one solid blue, one blue with black stipe i think.
Got the common lights to work! [thumbsup]
Simple fix that I should have done but oh well, I know more now.
Here is the video testing out the lights:
http://youtu.be/trSkMYCAHoY (http://youtu.be/trSkMYCAHoY)
The fuel sensor won't work because it's the digital meter sensor. I guess it will come on whenever the fuel is low. I don't mind that at all but if it works then it's find by me.
Now need to install the tach and speedo.
Okay, trying to get the speedo meter to work but not successful thus far. :(
What is the front wheel circumference exactly, anyone knows? 2000 M750....in mm please.
Thanks!
In mm... Epic math fail! hang on.
Quote from: Dirty Duc on July 16, 2012, 08:36:21 PM
In mm... 17 inches is 432
haha somehow I thought it's 5.5"....no Sh!t it didn't work....Thanks! [thumbsup]
Have you sorted out the tach wire? I have the exact spell out of the wire descriptions if you like. I found the abbreviations aren't good enough for me to know so I asked them.
New math from measurements...
Radius of 295mm
pi r squared says that is 2732mm
And let's post up the long description of the danmoto wiring harness.
and gearingcommander.com says it should be 1884.
Quote from: Dirty Duc on July 16, 2012, 08:51:05 PM
And let's post up the long description of the danmoto wiring harness.
1. left turn signal (O) â€" Orange
2. Oil Pressure switch (BL/W) â€" Blue/White
3. Neutral switch (LG/R) â€" Light green/Red
4. +12V (R) â€" Red
5. Ground (G) â€" Green
6. Background illumination (Br) â€" Brown
7. RPM Input (L/B) â€" Light blue/Black
8. Fuel level sensor (Y/W) â€" Yellow/White
9. Temperature Sensor (PU) â€" Purple
10. High Beam (BL) â€" Blue
11. right turn signal (LBL) â€" Light blue
For number 7 a little missleading though, I don't have a ligh-blue/black wire but blue/black wire.
So just another thought...
for the fuel level sensor, since the digital level won't work and the gauge has an extra light for the oil presure.
Can I just hook at fuel indicator wire from the stock harness to the oil pressure lead of the gauge?
That way the oil pressure light will come on when the fuel is low. What ya think? [thumbsup]
All I need is some kind of indicator to tell me that fuel is running low. Thanks!
Quote from: Dirty Duc on July 16, 2012, 08:56:50 PM
and gearingcommander.com says it should be 1884.
Sir, you are correct! the Speedo works perfectly.
if you have the info on the tach wiring, please share. Thanks!
Alright...
Gotten everything work.
The Tach need a 10K ohm 1/2 watt resistor inline for it to work and connect to the negative tab of the coil. Very easy. Resistor can be had at Radio Shack 5 or $3.
Overall, the hardest part about the install was...nothing really haha... I like it so far, the speedo seem to be pretty accurate. The tach, I never had tach before but it sounds accurate to me.
Total cost including the gauge ~$140.
Don't have any specific pics but I can always answer your questions if you decided to install the same gauge.
Did anyone have an issue with the speedo reading waaay too high? Like 550 mph.
Quote from: J-Cee on March 21, 2014, 04:28:48 PM
Did anyone have an issue with the speedo reading waaay too high? Like 550 mph.
you need to correct your wheel radius setting.
instruction should tell you have to set the radius and the number should be 1884 for a 17" wheel.
I have it set to actually less than the actual circumference. I could see a few mph off but it says I'm going 600 mph!!
Then maybe checking your sensor position. Or the sensor could be bad
How far from the axle is the magnet meant to be placed ? and do you only mount one or two?
Gibbo
maybe it thinks it's a capirex 620
I contacted DanMoto. Very knowledgeable. They said the rotor bolts can cause a false magnetic pulse if too close. I bought 6mm magnets and placed them inside the hex of the bolt but the sensor is right on top of the bolt. I'm going to move the magnets out from the rotor surface and try again.
It WAS the bolts causing interference. I was originally just going to space them out further but that hit the caliper bracket (rear wheel). I ended up using CA glue and attached right the the rotor face. Works great now. Now to fab a real brackets for the speedo and sensor.
reviving old thread on this, I'm getting ready to install this unit and I'm curious as to the mounting of the hall sensor and where exactly was it mounted, I have a 99 750
I'll post pics tomorrow but I installed on rear wheel with a bracket off of the rear caliper. Required a little fab work.
Also don't go by their tire circumference calibration. Use a smartphone Speedometer app to calibrate. I just blue taped mine to the tank.
Cool thanx alot man fab will not be a problem for me
I'm just wondering which part of the wheel (spoke,hub,rim????) the pickup is supposed to be pointed at, the rest i think i can figure out
Doesn't matter. Wherever you decide to put the magnet. I super glued it to the rotor.
to the rotor ???? that means it would spin with the wheel, dont you mean the caliper
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/jclaar/AE6A7D06-6BE6-411D-994B-6828F20A27DA.jpg) (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/jclaar/media/AE6A7D06-6BE6-411D-994B-6828F20A27DA.jpg.html)
You can see the magnet glued to the rotor. I had another magnet from my work that I used.
ok so I'm supposed to have another magnet that didnt come in the box right ???
If you can use the one in the box go for it. I have a bunch of these laying around. It will work the same. You could probably dislodge the magnet from the plastic housing.
Btw I have my circumference set to 1780.
I didnt get one in the box
Pm your address. I'll send you one.
pm sent and thanx much I owe u one, ore two, or three [beer]
ok finally getting time to do this, I dismantled to old cluster and am going to integrate the oem plug into the changeover, now here's where its interesting, my bike has a tach, and the wiring diagram for a 99 m750 show no tach, of course the 2001 m750 diagram show a tach sooo I assume the obvious, now my question is, can I wire into the oem plug wiring or do I still need to install a diode in between for the tach to work ????
well only the high beam works so far must investigate further,
edit... ooopppps wrong hot lead,
done no diode needed for my tach, I am not so sure on my year, i must have a 2001 (titled as 99) cause it had a tach, friggin NM DMV (like many states ) musta screwed up the title at some point, still gotta set my speedo and fab bracket for pickup, but I'm almost there. [drink]
wanna say thanks especially to JCee there should be a tutorial on this, great mod, I have to say, I LOVE this bike but the insturment cluster was a shitty piece of work, it look so much better now
well here's one, speedo not working, I get the reading at 0 on the screen but when I take off I get not reading just sits at 0, I have mine mounted exactly as JCee does, check plug and appears to be good, I'm stumped any ideas ???
Did it ever work? The magnet has to be pretty close to the pickup sensor.
I moved it closer but still no go, if I put it any closer it will hit, I may try a different magnet first, but i need to test the pickup i guess, it may be bad, I think I might have figured something
If you just wave a magnet over the sensor repeatedly it should register.
yea but I'm thinking some sort of continuity test, I'll ask the danmoto people about that one, but it seems as if it should register from pickup to a lead in the plug
I'm pretty sure it is just a hall effect sensor, AFAIK they all work the same way. Test procedures for any should therefore also be the same.
actually from my google search there are 2 diff types, will check into further when I get off work
turns out the problem was ........ magnet strength, the pos danmoto one had apparently wussed out , I ran one of my retriever magnets (you know the ones on a flexable rod for getting dropped screw out of various places) and works great, with a new magnet I'll be god to go, thanx all
If you still want me to send you one I can but I'm in Hawaii the rest of the week so it wouldn't be until Monday.
thanx anyway I yank the one out of my retriever and epoxyied it on about 2 hours ago, it was the only one out of 3 that registered, the original, and another magnetic retriever didnt register at all, so for all of you who see this in the future get a better magnet
test ride over, all is well, looks like your speedo setting is pretty damn close JCee, thanx again
No problem. Enjoy!!
a thought did occur to me, magnet strength prolly also affects circumference setting
Update: Had a bad gauge and after a long trip back to China it was replaced. I decided to "pimp my gauge" after I got the new one. Pics to follow. Also the latest circumference setting is 1750. That's dead on with OE tire size. The PO had one larger on front and back.
Changed backlighting from blue to red. Also made a carbon trim ring to replace the chrome existing one.
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/jclaar/Ducati%20Pics/9E519EF4-5486-446C-886D-C5E9E6C10DB0.jpg) (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/jclaar/media/Ducati%20Pics/9E519EF4-5486-446C-886D-C5E9E6C10DB0.jpg.html)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b117/jclaar/Ducati%20Pics/C27B0FD3-AA81-4666-A2F8-831ED7478B02.jpg) (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/jclaar/media/Ducati%20Pics/C27B0FD3-AA81-4666-A2F8-831ED7478B02.jpg.html)
looks good [thumbsup]