The thread I've been following here on RattleCan painting Ducati plastic parts (fenders, seat cowls etc.) advocates wet sanding with 100Grit after painting but before clear coat and after looking at my paint texture after spray painting that seems to make sense BUT... when I was reading up on "How to Wet Sand" it instructs wet sanding after clear coat.
Which one is it?
After...it requires buffing though.
I did not read the thread but know a little about paint :)
I typically shoot the paint, then the clear and finally wet sand the clear with 2500 and then hit it with a buffer. 2500 will (depending on color) remove any dust, lint or what not on the surface. If I am impatient or working a run I may use 1500 or 1000 to get the run out but you gotta finish with 2500. A buffer will not remove the scratches 1500 leaves behind.
Quote from: Case S2R on September 05, 2012, 08:59:03 PM
I did not read the thread but know a little about paint :)
I typically shoot the paint, then the clear and finally wet sand the clear with 2500 and then hit it with a buffer. 2500 will (depending on color) remove any dust, lint or what not on the surface. If I am impatient or working a run I may use 1500 or 1000 to get the run out but you gotta finish with 2500. A buffer will not remove the scratches 1500 leaves behind.
I know a bit too.
What clear/compound are you using that you can't get 1500 scratches out?
I do it all the time.
A little more info on the buffing process please. I don't own a buffer but I'm wondering if there's a buffer attachment I can get for the Dremel. I'd also like to know what kind of buffing compound is recommended.
Quote from: Duck Off on September 06, 2012, 04:53:04 AM
A little more info on the buffing process please. I don't own a buffer but I'm wondering if there's a buffer attachment I can get for the Dremel. I'd also like to know what kind of buffing compound is recommended.
If you're doing a tiny job (under one square inch) the dremel is great. You'll spend months doing a whole tank with a dremel. I had a buffer from Walmart, $40, worked great.
You'll spend a lot of time with a dremel buffing.
This would be better...
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/sanders/3-inch-pneumatic-polisher-kit-99934.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/sanders/3-inch-pneumatic-polisher-kit-99934.html)
I use 1500/2000 grit paper. Use the wool pad to remove scratches and the foam to remove swirls.
I use 3M compound, but it's intended for catalyzed material. I can give you the number if you want. You may be able to use a different compound.
I don't use rattle can non activated products so I have no idea what the pitfalls are, or recommended dry times.
edit...
BTW...there's a thread for this in tech...
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=29.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=29.0)
I'f I'm not happy with the texture of my base coat (not smooth enough) should I wet sand it to smooth it out and then apply another couple coats over that? If this will work should I wait till it cures before wet sanding?
Quote from: Duck Off on September 07, 2012, 01:05:39 PM
I'f I'm not happy with the texture of my base coat (not smooth enough) should I wet sand it to smooth it out and then apply another couple coats over that? If this will work should I wait till it cures before wet sanding?
The pro who clear coated my belly pan had me wait a week before he would clear over rattle can.