I fitted some Sport 1000s wheel wheels to my 2000 M900Sie. I've had than on for about 3 months now and can report the bike is stable and I really haven't noticed any noticable effort throwing through the twisties.
I was just wondering if anyone would be interested in what it takes to get the job done. I even managed to keep the stock mechanical speedo drive.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/edgarbrits/Monster/Iphone023.jpg)
Lookin' good [thumbsup]
I wanna know.
Quote from: ungeheuer on November 25, 2012, 03:22:38 AM
Lookin' good [thumbsup]
I wanna know.
+1
I have a 2000 M900ie as well and would like to know! [thumbsup]
Quote from: ungeheuer on November 25, 2012, 03:22:38 AM
Lookin' good [thumbsup]
I wanna know.
Looks good on your bike. me too.
Did you compare stock wheel weights to the wire spoke wheels ? Mod looks good but adding un-sprung weight is something I have always tried to avoid I'm assuming the wire spoke wheels weigh more then stock.
I think the Sport 1000s had the aluminum rims and no innertube correct?
The 1000S has alloy rims but you still need inner tubes.
I'd like to hear how you did when fitting these, they look great and really suit the monster.
It may interest you to know theres an Italian company that produces rims to fit the SC wheels that'll use tubeless tyres, though you'd need to lace them onto your own hubs..
http://www.fa-ba.com/eng_index.php (http://www.fa-ba.com/eng_index.php)
The aluminum rimmed SC wheels are just a tiny bit heavier than the 'propeller' 3-spokers.
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=47036.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=47036.0)
Ok I'll start with a little introduction including some real experience in the handling dept.
How much will it cost ?
Let's say not cheap, but these are some pretty major mods, but simple to do.
Initial cost of the wheels for me was $1500, this included Front & rear wheel fitted with tyres, a pair of front brake discs, rear brake disc, cush drive and sprocket.
I went the easy route with the front brakes and bought a Beringer setup for the Sport Classic, big thanks to the guys at BellissiMoto for help with this. To use the Beringer setup you will need to buy new caliper bolts with a coarser thread than the brembo bolts and some countersunk bolts to attach the discs, I used 12.9 bolts in all cases.
There are some threads on ducati.ms in the Sport Classic section dealing with using 4 pot bremob calipers, with SC discs.
Front brake lines will need changing, I used the Venhill range as I wanted to keep it close to the oem routing as possible and the Venhill system allows tweeking to get the routing just right.
The the cost for the spacers and machining task will depend on your skill set, access to a lathe or whether you have a mate that can do it. Most expensive option would be a machine shop.
Now I the wheels and brakes I had collected over a couple of years for another project I was working on, but this Monster came up at the right price and at the right time. And as I had ALWAYS wanted one, well you know the story.
Real world handling ?
I've found it to be just as stable and fickable as it was with the standard wheels. Let's face we're not riding 10/10 on a MotoGP course. Yes I am aware of the effects of unsprung weight and the gyroscopic effect. Yes I grant in theory it shouldn't handle the same. I feel in real world riding on public roads tyre care and suspension setup will be the two greatest issues.
To me my bikes handles well, I can not guarrantee that you will feel the same and I really wouldn't like this howto to turn into a debate about unsprung weight and gyroscpoic effects.
Did I enjoy doing the mod & researching it ?
Yes it was fun, I learnt some new skills and gave me insight into what I can do.
What it worth it ?
Damn straight it was.
A quick summary
The front wheel without the mod for the speedo drive is basically plug and play if you have a front end with a 25mm axle. Obtain a SC axle and spacer and in it goes.
The speedo drive mod is not overly complicated, but more of that later.
The rear wheel, now my experience is with a 17mm axle. The basic indgredients are, M900S caliper and hanger, top hat spacer, SC wheel, top hat spacer for wheel, top hat spacer for sprocket carrier, sprocket carrier (modded and a change of bearings) and cone shaped spacer with a little bit shaved off.
As you can see there is only 3 custom top hat spacers, some modifications to the sprocket carrier (this is the biggest job and just fitted on my 7x14 bench lathe) and a slight reduction in length to the cone shaped spacer.
It would be possible to use a change of bearings for the hub but this would require machining the hub 2mm deeper on the sprocket side to suit and a new inner spacer made. I wanted to reduce the amount of machining the wheels or get away without any at all.
End of part 1
Please feel free to ask any questions, I need time to chase my note book up and pull the wheels off to take some piccies.
Thanks for Reading.
i always thought that spoked wheels looked top notch on the dss monsters. case in point here. great job
Great job! [drink]
I have this same mod using wheels off a PS that are on my '99 Monster.
I replaced my front forks as well and used the newer front axle.
Interested in learning how you kept the mechanical speedo.
Thanks for you kind words guys, I think Ducati should have released a model with these wheels.
FRONT WHEEL
This is the easy bit, just grab a SC 1000 axle and spacer, remove your original wheel and install SC 1000 wheel with matching spacer & axle.
Brakes we'll discuss at a later date.
HUB MODS
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/edgarbrits/Monster/Tool-001.jpg)
Brake down of the tool, end has been turned down to fit in cordless drill.
5mm drilled and tapped to take M6x1.0 grub screw, metric is more common in Oz.
Suitable hole drilled to take a 3/16 square HSS Tool bit
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/edgarbrits/Monster/Tool-002.jpg)
Just a shot of the assembled tool.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/edgarbrits/Monster/hub-001.jpg)
Tool in place to make first cut, not shown arer the packer washers I used between the bearing and HHS bit to set the height.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/edgarbrits/Monster/hub-002.jpg)
Tool in place for second cut. Once again washers not shown
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/edgarbrits/Monster/hub-003.jpg)
Tool in place for last cut, no washers required as bearing sets bottom depth.
The steel I used was a grade known as 1045 locally. The diameter is a nice fit in the bearings and this holds everything in line.
The tool is chucked in a cordless drill and the cut is made at a speed that gets you a nice cut, a bit of cutting fluid helps in along the way.
The diameters were set by placing the tool in the cast hub and setting the diameter to just a tad under then when at the correct depth a finishing cut is made.
The cut outs for the drive washer were cut with a carbide bit in a dremel tool mounted in a router base, this was cut freehand after tracing the drive washer.
I had a spare hub in the shed to practice on just in case I f*#cked it up. Actually I found this way alot simpler than trying to mount the whole thing on my mill, which would not have fitted anyways. I can't claim this to be an original idea as I poached it from a forum member of aussiestreetfighters. He used the same idea to mod a swingarm pivot on an ally frame. I better add that the method I described requires no unlacing and relacing of the wheel. I wont supply any measurements as I just cut & trimmed to fit.
The speedo drive needed 9mm trimmed off it to fit, a little of the top and most from the bottom. The hardest part was trimming down the white ring gear, eventually I worked out the dremel was the way to go. So far I've put over 2500kays on it and have had no trouble.
One thing I forgot is that there isn't enough space to use the oil seal as per the M900 speedo setup. This will require a little extra care for the speedo drive and maybe the bearings may need replacement earlier. But as usual in these cases nothing is always 100% perfect.
Next,you should re-do that fugly sissy bar.
Kidding, [laugh]
Wheels look nice!
That fugly [laugh] sissy bar is a Ventura rack originally for a '88 GSX-1100 with home made L-Brackets. My local shop couldn't supply a rack in the time I needed one (4 weeks) so I bought a MiG for about the same money and made one myself. Just a very basic entry level MiG and I'm teaching myself to weld. The photos were taken the day I got back from a 3 day ride and didn't bother taking the rack off before washing or the photos. Came in handy bring the pipes back from the Staintune factory.
Reviving this thread to ask if anyone has done this mod to a new gen Monster.
It. Is. My. Dream.
I just found a Sport Classic front wheel on fleabay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=231015136066&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=231015136066&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en)) and I'm wondering if it's even worth exploring for my '09 696
Quote from: FLL_DucatiRider on July 18, 2013, 11:34:56 AM
Reviving this thread to ask if anyone has done this mod to a new gen Monster.
It. Is. My. Dream.
I just found a Sport Classic front wheel on fleabay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=231015136066&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=231015136066&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en)) and I'm wondering if it's even worth exploring for my '09 696
I would keep looking for aluminum rims from a Paul Smart or Sport 1000. That is the heavy chromed steel rim from a GT1000.
Sorry, I have no idea if these will work on a newer style Monster.
Hi guys
You can convert the spokes rims to tubeless,its common practice in classic racing.
Machine a flat for the tubeless vave so it seals.
Then clean off all oil,dirt from the nipples inside the rim.
Use breaklean or aceton.
Put a dab of silicone on all nipples to cover them and the hollow area around them.
Let dry and do 2 rounds of silvertape on the rim.
Saves 0,5 ks per wheel.
Quote from: silverfish on July 23, 2013, 12:18:44 AM
Hi guys
You can convert the spokes rims to tubeless,its common practice in classic racing.
Machine a flat for the tubeless vave so it seals.
Then clean off all oil,dirt from the nipples inside the rim.
Use breaklean or aceton.
Put a dab of silicone on all nipples to cover them and the hollow area around them.
Let dry and do 2 rounds of silvertape on the rim.
Saves 0,5 ks per wheel.
[thumbsup] [thumbsup] Hopefully I'll get to that point someday