I am attempting to change the belts on my S2R but the bolts that hold the belt tensioners pullys in place are all Red loctited in place.I have slightly bent one allen wrench trying to turn them.
Any ideas that does not involve a torch?
I've had the best luck defeating red Loctite by using a torch followed by an impact driver. The impact driver works sans the torch as well, you just have to hit it harder. ;)
That said, I don't know how delicate the area you're working with is, so beating on it with a hammer may not be preferable.
These are the timing belt tensioners belt pullys. I am worried that heat would damage the bearings.
Quote from: x136 on July 01, 2008, 03:16:35 PM
That said, I don't know how delicate the area you're working with is, so beating on it with a hammer may not be preferable.
It's located on the right side of the engine.
high quality allen socket with a long handled ratchet maybe?
Why are you messing with the pulleys to change your timing belts?
Quote from: RB on July 02, 2008, 04:15:32 AM
Why are you messing with the pulleys to change your timing belts?
Changed part name, thanks.
OK so the cover bolts are stuck? Ride it around a bit get the engine hot, riding for a 30 minutes or so should transfer some heat to them. ttry to crak them loose while hot. Also, you will need an allen socket, put the allen socket into the stuck allen and hit it with a hammer, this should loosen the bolt. Usually a steel bolt in an aluminum thread, just needs a good whack to unstick it. Careful not to hit the frame or the plastic covers.
Once you are finished, put the allens back in with a little grease on them so this doesn't happen again. This is probably from overtightening on aluminum, i had the same issue before.
RB
Ratchet with a head attatchment that accepts bits. get a Torx bit ram that muthersucka in and go to town. Use high quality bits. If its still not going, or you sense impending doom from stripping, try WD40. There is a spray that loosens locks up that i cant remember the name of, but it is sold in home depot.
Here's the Wiki on red loctite.
QuoteRed High-Strength No. 271, 262, 266, 268, 272, 277 & 2760 - Used on things that you don't want to take apart for a long time. It requires heat from a torch or iron (to 250° C) to loosen its grip. It cures into a thicker, sticky bond that holds up better against vibration and shocks. It is typically used in mechanical applications such as nuts and bolts in cars, motorbikes, snowmobiles, and watercraft.
It's probably safer if you do use heat on the bolts, as this will lessen the chance of them snapping off in the threads. It's probably also safer to pay a mechanic to do it, as well. Having said that, if you need to DIY, you might consider putting a long allen in it and heating the allen wrench. You might even consider putting a spot of the red stuff on the bolt and letting it harden overnight first, so you can have a visual sign of when the thing is hot enough.
If it were me with this problem, I'd probably spot it, and then use a map gas torch directly to the bolt head just enough to melt the spot, but not boil it. Forcing it just doesn't seem like an optimum answer. If the only thing you lose is the plastic belt guard, consider yourself lucky.
My belt covers are in my kitchen. The bolts that are stuck are connected to my belt tensioners.
I will try a heat and a impact wrench.
try this
(http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/PB-Blaster.jpg)
Tried Loctite vs PB = a Loctite win. >:(
Quote from: Ducatiloo on July 03, 2008, 09:56:00 AM
Tried Loctite vs PB = a Loctite win. >:(
try this
(http://www.bernzomatic.com/bernzomatic/consumer/images/hires/TS3000KC.jpg)
All bolts off, [clap] [drink] one broken hex head with a life time guarantee. Since I bought it yesterday I still have the reciept [thumbsup] Thanks for all the help
For the future when dealing with RED loctite.
Use a soldering iron rigged up to sit inside the head of the allen. Then hit with an impact that has a good bit in it. If you use an iron that will go up to 900 degrees you don't need the impact.