I'm chasing an issue with my 2002 Dodge Dakota. It's code 1686, and nothing on the internet gives me any info other than "Take it to the dealer.
Specifics on the truck:
Trim level: Sport
Body: Regular cab, standard box
Engine: 4.7L V8
Trans: Manual
Electronics: Just the CD/Cassette in dash. Door locks and windows are manual, so no key fob.
Options: Tire & suspension package, heavy duty trans, towing package, heavy duty suspension
1686 keeps coming up. I disconnected my aftermarket stereo equipment & the fog lights to simplify things. Code still randomly comes back. I've put 125 miles on in since a computer reset and while 1686 has not come back yet (it will soon I'm sure though there is no pattern to it being triggered) and some of the other systems won't reset to clear inspection.
Local Dodge dealer wants $80 just to plug it up and read me whatever related to 1686. They say there is no other way to know what the issues, likely even if the computer tells them anything useful.
I'm reading the code directly from the dash using the quick diagnostic that makes it show up where the odometer is rather than the local auto parts stores reading it. Granted, they get the same code if I let them.
Any advice on where to start?
Thanks
JM
Says it's a Sentry Key Immobilizer Module (SKIM) issue:
http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165986 (http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165986)
Seems related, and looks like you can chat with a tech here:
http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/3t801-hi-2002-dodge-dakota-5-9-skim-security.html (http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/3t801-hi-2002-dodge-dakota-5-9-skim-security.html)
That's where I'm totally confused.
Mind doesn't have the fancy key. No idea why the code is getting kicked.
JM
Are you sure you don't have the Fancy key? Some of those Chrysler keys from early 2000's have Keys that look normal but there is a chip in the plastic part of the key. You cant just make a duplicate.
Yea, positive, one of the keys I normally use is a cheap Lowe's key. I don't have the security light. Looks like if I had the "convience" package (computer in the overhead console, key fob etc) it would have the chipped key. Guess the equipment is there, but the computer is supposed to not or programmed to not look for the chip.
JM
Sell it. get a new one.
On my list, but we're also hoping to build a house and that may have to wait a bit. We're talking about replacing it anyway, but it's not an immediate possibility. It's not worth enough selling to replace with something similar or even as good. The local Chevy place is advertising 72 Months 0% and they *almost* had a little blue truck to deal with. Mechanically very solid. Electrically (oddly enough, not critical stuff either) not so much. My vent/AC stuff only works on high currently. Might be different next week.
JM
Have you re-booted (battery disconnected, and wiring harness + to - connected to drain system)?
Quote from: Speeddog on July 07, 2014, 07:53:22 PM
Have you re-booted (battery disconnected, and wiring harness + to - connected to drain system)?
Yea, been through that a couple times now.
JM
You said there was other stuff that wouldn't clear.
Doany of those make sense, or are they kinda wacky too?
Perhaps the main connectors at the ECU are are getting IZ_.
What is the other stuff that won't clear? Are they three digit or four digit codes? Do you need to be code free to pass inspection? If not I would say just live with it until you build your house.
Some times codes can be misleading. Often part of the option you don't have on the car do exist and can fail causing a non problem, or just be plain misleading. '98 Passat we owned. Lean misfire on, don't remember which side cylinder bank. The engine was an in line four.
I can't speak for your dealer, but the dealer I bought my last three VWs from had a sign with a pretty hefty fee for reading codes. The fee dissapeared if they did the work.
Just for sake of clarity:
NC you must drive up to 100 miles after resetting the computer to get inspected. Reset means the computer says you've driven enough miles to satisfy the 100 mile requirement. I've put 128 on at this point with two fails on resets on the following items. The items that won't reset are oxygen sensor heater and Minor Evap. O2 Heater has never in the twelve years I've owned it thrown a code. The Evap threw a code 4 years ago, but was fixed and hasn't thrown one since.
Neither that won't reset are related to the CEL 4-digit coe (1686) that is related to the SKIM, which is the smart key thing. The module is present even though my truck does not use (absolutely positive) a chipped key.
Thanks for helping me work through this [thumbsup]
JM
OK got it. Reediness codes will not reset. Miles driven is not the only criteria. Reset happens after the system does self diagnosis happens for that possible fault. Try this for the heated O2:
For the O2 heater you would need to park overnight, temperature between 0 and 100o F and then check with the factory scan tool to see what parameters are left.
or
Fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full.
Start cold (below 86°F /30°C) and warm up until engine coolant temperature is at least 160° F
Accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for five minutes.
Decelerate without using the brake (coast down) to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
Restart and accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for two minutes.
Decelerate without using the brake [or the clutch!] by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
EVAP should reset after a number of cold starts, can be up to 40.
Hope this helps.
Thanks, that's what I've been doing aside from the scan since I don't have it. I'm going to go back again today and see. Currently I've restarted several times, it's sat overnight etc. CEL hasn't come back on though, so that's a positive thing.
JM
I see the big guns have arrived. [beer]
I know this won't help but I've always felt that since Dodge and "don't ever own one" both start with D....
Well, mechanically, it's a great truck. Good motor, trans, 4WD system etc. Electrically, not so much. It's never critical stuff either, just silly stuff.
It did finally pass, all the readiness codes got cleared.
JM
Great!
Rediness codes can be problematic on all cars. Many techs if confident of the repair, will let the car out after repair without clearing codes, MIL light still on and let the trouble code(s) rest themselves for that reason. Less of a problem in cities because typical drive cycles are more complex.
Buy a scan tool. They are $40 everywhere. this has been one of the most useful tool that I have ever bought.
Don't need one, it gives me the codes right on the dash.
JM
Quote from: Speeddog on July 08, 2014, 10:24:48 AM
I see the big guns have arrived. [beer]
Forget that: that was some 007 shit right there.
Very impressed, Howie! [thumbsup]