Hey guys,
First, I signed up for triumphrat.net, but they have a fairly lengthy and restrictive introductory period so while i'm sure they're a great group of guys, i don't think ill be able to get any help there tonight.
I just had a look at a VERY reasonably (low for a reason) priced bonnie in town, and wanted to see if anyone is familiar enough with them to know what's up with it - I didn't get a good feeling about the thing, but it's a '12 with 5k miles on the clock, and can be had for $3800 if I act quickly - however - it's exhibiting very poor throttle response, has an intermittent CEL, and the oil pressure light is acting kind of wonky - it would flash at me in between gears or if I let off the throttle. If it just needs a little love it could be a good deal, but I'm not trying to go broke on a bargain...anyway - is anyone here familiar enough with them to be able to determine from my brief interaction with the bike what the risk of potentially expensive repairs being necessary may be?
also, mods, if this is the wrong spot to post this, feel free to move/delete as necessary
You should hear it start. If the starter clutch/sprague makes noise dont touch it. I have seen the cheap sprague bearings they use. Instead of slipping they can disintegrate.
Started it up a couple of times, and I don't recall any particularly disturbing sounds - what's the sound you would be looking for?
Quote from: Barney on August 05, 2016, 05:13:15 PM
~~~SNIP~~~
and the oil pressure light is acting kind of wonky - it would flash at me in between gears or if I let off the throttle.
~~~SNIP~~~
I know next to nothing about Triumph Bonnevilles, but I'd consider that a huge red flag.
Do not buy the bike unless the oil pressure is checked with a mechanical gauge and the running problem is diagnosed.
Yep.
Quote from: Barney on August 05, 2016, 05:13:15 PM
- it's exhibiting very poor throttle response, has an intermittent CEL, and the oil pressure light is acting kind of wonky - it would flash at me in between gears or if I let off the throttle.
A MIL light on that bike isn't intermittent. It's got some sort of wiring issue. Has aftermarket lighting? [roll] If the MIL is flashing on and off, the oil pressure light means nothing either.
Stupid some of the mods ignorant people do to these bikes and then moan. That list is nothing like this forum, however, once you know who is who, there are a few electronics and wiring gurus who know more than I'd ever need. Pity you can't post.
If the deal becomes critical, I'll post it for you. Bit slow on the weekend of course.
More info on mods before guessing about the throttle response. '12 is CanBus but simple things can cause poor response, even bad gas.
So, against my better judgement, I picked the thing up this morning. The price was too good to pass up. The thing has definitely been bastardized, but I actually don't care - it should be a fun/low cost project to get sorted and I can do things with it I wouldn't consider on the monster.
I think I found at least part of the source of the throttle/running issues - the manifold boot between the left side "carbs" (it has fake carbs as well as a fast idle switch that looks like a choke and an idle adjuster knob) and the manifold itself has a crack in it, and from what I read on the triumph forum these things REALLY don't take well to vacuum leaks. they really mess up fueling, causing the bike to run very rich and can contribute to all of the symptoms I'm seeing - so there's that. I'm going to replace the boot and plug and disconnect the battery for a while to reset the computer and see if runs any better.
As far as the oil pressure light goes, it's not my biggest concern at the moment - I can see that it's filled to the proper level via the sight glass, and the oil lines/cooler/etc got warm so I can be fairly confident that oil is at least circulating. I can also see the level drop significantly in the viewer when the bike is started. I took it for a quick lap around the block and it seems to flicker more due to bumps and whatnot than anything else, and also the speedo stopped working, so there's obviously a wiring issue somewhere.
we'll see how it goes, but it could be a fun little old man bike to kick around for the rest of the summer then maybe sell to someone looking for their first bike. [Dolph]
Disconnecting the battery will not reset the ECU. It's dumb. ;D If you have a steady MIL, only a computer reset or three drive/heat cycles of riding with the fault removed will cancel it. Figure out the loose connection.
Sure, the leaky boot will create havoc as will any leak around the thin tubes off the throttle bodies which lead to the MAP sensors!
As you are in NJ, any parts you need order from Hermy's. They are great people! http://www.triumphestore.com/ (http://www.triumphestore.com/)
Pix or it didn't happen. ;D
Glad its nothing critical and it was a cheap pick up.
Quote from: Curmudgeon on August 06, 2016, 02:04:44 PM
Disconnecting the battery will not reset the ECU. It's dumb. ;D If you have a steady MIL, only a computer reset or three drive/heat cycles of riding with the fault removed will cancel it. Figure out the loose connection.
Sure, the leaky boot will create havoc as will any leak around the thin tubes off the throttle bodies which lead to the MAP sensors!
As you are in NJ, any parts you need order from Hermy's. They are great people! http://www.triumphestore.com/ (http://www.triumphestore.com/)
Pix or it didn't happen. ;D
I read about the battery thing after I disconnected it so when I stopped by the local auto parts store today to pick up a couple of plugs and found a cheap obdII code reader, I picked it up - plugged that bad boy in when I got home and pulled 2 codes - P1108 - which according to the triumph forum is Ambient air pressure sensor circuit high voltage - haven't looked into it too much, but I'm sure I can sort it.
the second is p0500 - which apparently informs me that my speedo is not working. thanks. I couldn't figure that one out without the idiot light. [bang]
anyway - i also picked up some silicone sealant to see if i can mend that boot temporarily, so its out to the garage with the pup dog to tinker. hold tight for some pictures [thumbsup]
also, thanks for that link - i'll definitely be checking them out.
looks like they're in Allentown - I may have to take a ride out there at some point to look around!
Quote from: Barney on August 07, 2016, 08:53:27 AM
So I stopped by the local auto parts store today to pick up a couple of plugs, and found a cheap obdII code reader - plugged that bad boy in when I got home and pulled 2 codes - P1108 - which according to the triumph forum is Ambient air pressure sensor circuit high voltage - haven't looked into it too much, but I'm sure I can sort it.
the second is p0500 - which apparently informs me that my speedo is not working. thanks. I couldn't figure that one out without the idiot light. [bang]
anyway - i also picked up some silicone sealant to see if i can mend that boot temporarily, so its out to the garage with the pup dog to tinker. hold tight for some pictures [thumbsup]
What mods has the bike had? He could have buggered up the sensor or a loose lead. IIRC it's sticking near the air inlet on the airbox and they are fragile. Hermy's will probably have one if needed.
A '12 is CanBus and everything goes through that speedo, so that code could mean a lot more than "speedo inop".
I was taking a little artistic Liberty there - I believe on the the non-abs bikes the p0500 code indicates a sensor failure or misread, something along those lines.
I pulled the plugs out and definite had a foul on the right cylinder. Between that and the silicon and a little 1000mph tape on that boot, the thing this running about 100 times better. It's got that classic triumph/singer sewing machine sound, and pulls really strong through all the gears.
it's only got a couple of cosmetic mods as far as I can tell. Someone pulled off the rear fender which looks stupid as hell, and it's got aftermarket blinkers, so someone messed around under the seat at some point
here's a pic of the thing...it really is a nice looking bike.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8721/28800439686_defb0bce13_z.jpg)
I also found this plug under the right side intake cover - can't seem to see figure out where it's supposed to go though..
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8174/28832042635_4785c1fe3d_z.jpg)
Sorry, was out all day. That's a base Bonneville Black I suppose. Not a fan of the 17" front wheel from an aesthetic POV but they handle better with it. The frame never changed and its proportions were designed around a 19" front with spokes. Originally this setup was from the '09 SE for the vertically-challenged.
Anyway..., how long before you can post? PITA! That forum is moderated by some heavy-handed Canucks but the gurus there can really help you. Meanwhile, just keep searching. Anything from Forchetto or Ripper you can take to the bank.
Obviously the PO screwed up the wiring. That bike has no tach, right? As it's CanBus, try to get the speedo working. That's critical.
Sure, he was messing around under the seat. There is also a ton of wiring in the headlight shell. Just don't tug on the harness up there. Under the front of the tank under tape, the harness has a bunch of weak splices which have been known to fail.
As it's black, the fender you might be able to replace off eBay. Parts diagrams are on that Hermy's link I gave you.
You might also find TORS (Triumph off-road) mufflers on eBay ocassionally if you don't like the sewing machine. Not too loud and get better with age. You can run them without an OEM TORS tune. Might be slightly better with. Anything aftermarket and/or loud will require a different tune and a lot of PITA trial and error.
If the air injection is still there, leave it for now but pull the hose on the left top of the air box and pop a cork, plastic plug or similar in it and stuff it back in place and then raise the idle with the knob on the left side of the linkage to idle at least ~ 1,050. This will keep the headers from bluing further and get rid of some throttle snatch if you're lucky.
Mine's non-CanBus so different. Maybe that wire was for the OEM alarm? ??? Hope it doesn't go to a sensor! ;D
Wish I could help more, but not great with stringy bits. Slightly better with greasy bits. :)
Good luck!
I believe it's a base model, as you're right, it's got no tach and the 17'' alloys (how i wish it had spoked wheels), but I think that bike originally came with the black painted engine covers, and this guy's got bare covers, which I think looks a little bit nicer.
I can probably post at this point, but I've gotten this far just by searching - found the dude Forchetto's post on the vacuum leak and that's basically what inspired me to roll the dice in the first place...could tell from that one post he's a guru over there - what he described, although less extreme, was basically what seemed was going on with the bike.
I may need to break down and post something today regarding that empty connection as well as where the speedo sensor lives...I took a quick look but didn't see anything obvious. Haven't done much searching yet though if it's not too busy at work I might be able to get somewhere.
I'm sure the guy was also in the headlight, as there are aftermarket front blinkers as well - that should be fun to pull apart and see how badly it looks, but perhaps my speedo issue lives in there?
I had the tank off yesterday to pull the plugs out - and I didn't notice any part of the harness taped under there, so I'll probably pull it again tonight for a closer look if that's the case. [bang]
as far as the exhaust goes, I don't hate it, but it definitely doesn't look good - however, it's also got a little rash on the right side, so I was considering pulling the whole thing off, repairing the rash with some jb weld as best I can and painting the whole thing black. i'll look into the TORS exhaust though - also one of the side covers is cracked to hell, so I might sand it down and try to repair it, and maybe paint it a nice British racing green, and if that works, maybe I'll pull the tank and try my hand at painting that as well - I can't stand the stickers under the clear coat on this bike...they look SUPER cheap.
Thanks for all the help by the way! always appreciated [beer]
I'm not versed in the Bonnies - but I believe you can use TuneECU to access the ECU. So you can read codes (already handled) and also get more info, change settings like final drive to accommodate for final drive changes etc.
The oil pressure - for whatever reason is low. One will get the lowest oil pressure on the bike when it's Hot (oil is most thin) and at idle (lowest pump speed). Two simple explanations could be that the oil in the bike is the wrong weight, and getting too thin for the conditions, or/and the idle speed is too low resulting in the pump spinning slower.
And avenue to pursue might be an oil change after consulting the hot weather oil weight info. Again not sure on the Bonnie, but the Daytona didn't ship with a magnetic drain plug. I picked up one for the extra peace of mind - also was drilled for safety wire ease *bonus!
I hadn't considered oil weight as a factor for a possible low pressure issue, but an oil change is definitely on the list of things to do ASAP - I intended to do one over the weekend but I couldn't track down the right filter and I don't really want to run fresh oil through a dirty one, especially since i don't plan on putting many miles on it until it's changed.
thanks for brining that up - i literally know nothing about the bike so every variable is something that needs to be considered, and i'm not bright enough to realize all of them on my own :)
I need to check the airbox and filter as well...
NP. It can be those silly little (old fashioned) things like oil weights in relation to ambient temps.
Like Ducs - a lot of Triumphs use the same spin on Filter. #204 for K&N and HiFlo
Bought mine as a "standard motorcycle", good for riding into the city and plonking around at low speeds as they have decent low end torque. Looked like a T120V a pal had in the '70's too and draws more admirers than any exotic I've ever owned, possibly because it "looks like a motorcycle" and is non-threatening. Can be ridden briskly on back roads too after doing a bunch of fairly invisible "fixes". Not sure you'd care to invest in those...
http://gallery.leica-users.org/d/291755-1/DB-Brewery-T-100.jpg (http://gallery.leica-users.org/d/291755-1/DB-Brewery-T-100.jpg)
http://gallery.leica-users.org/d/275076-2/DB-Brewery.jpg (http://gallery.leica-users.org/d/275076-2/DB-Brewery.jpg)
http://gallery.leica-users.org/d/353092-1/Workshop-T-100.jpg (http://gallery.leica-users.org/d/353092-1/Workshop-T-100.jpg)
Not for sale. ;)
Think you are right that the PO changed the case covers for brushed satin from another model.
There are several gurus but Forchetto is probably the best and reliable. He's an electrical/electronics engineer who is a Spaniard who lived and worked in the UK near Hinckley for some time and has better English than most Brits and nearly ALL Americans. :) Very clear. Has the patience of Job! Lives somewhere near San Sebastian now and rides an SE because he's short. ;D
Careful with the headlight. Little clips and springs can go flying. ;) It's a rat's nest. The whole harness is "taped". Up under the tank and near the steering head crude splices in there can part. PITA. You can find pictures of that if you search hard enough.
You should be able to restore it to near stock from take-offs for sale on eBay. Good luck finding the botched wiring. Bear in mind that the headers and exhausts are model-specific and some stuff from other models won't line up. If you find mufflers off a '15, the stockers are louder. Black side covers off eBay can be cheap too. OEM alloy ones also show up occasionally. They were an accessory.
Metallic BRG looks good. Triumph had several good ones over the years if you want to take it that far.
Quote from: Barney on August 08, 2016, 08:23:41 AM
I hadn't considered oil weight as a factor for a possible low pressure issue, but an oil change is definitely on the list of things to do ASAP - I intended to do one over the weekend but I couldn't track down the right filter and I don't really want to run fresh oil through a dirty one, especially since i don't plan on putting many miles on it until it's changed.
thanks for brining that up - i literally know nothing about the bike so every variable is something that needs to be considered, and i'm not bright enough to realize all of them on my own :)
I need to check the airbox and filter as well...
Would imagine the flickering oil light is 100% the botched wiring. The pump gears are nylon but last as long as the bike isn't left idling without a fan on it. Definitly use an OEM filter as the aftermarket ones don't fit properly lately. $10- from Hermy's. Use Mobil 1 4T Racing 10W40 from the auto parts stores. Takes 4 QT. almost exactly WITH a filter change. They use no oil. If you get stuck in traffic constantly, You could use Mobil 1 V-Twin. The bikes were designed around Mobil 1 15W50 4T. Unfortunately, Mobil 1 stopped packaging it when Triumph switched to Castrol in Europe, no doubt for a healthy kickback. >:( In the USA, Castrol is Ashland and I wouldn't use it in my lawn mower due to QC issues.
Where in NJ are you? Worked off I-80 for 40+ years before retiring to Central VA on nice roads. ;)
they are certainly very nice to look at. My girlfriend already likes it a lot better than the monster, she's trying very hard to convince me to keep it. enablers, they're the worst. [thumbsup]
I'll have to take a look for covers - but as far as fenders go, I think I'd like to do something a little shorter than stock. I don't mined the chopped look, I just think it looks silly with nothing at all. A different seat would be another option, or a combination of the two even better yet. I need to decide how much/if any money i want to put into cosmetics, and how long i think i'll hold onto it, but before that i need to get it road worthy.
I grew up in Summit, near the Short Hills mall, then moved to Morristown for some years after college - I'm back in union county now, but I'm looking to move down to Asbury as soon as I can find a new job. I'm currently working in Rockland County NY at the top of 287 - I've seen those VA rodes, and I imagine having them in your back yard is quite a treat. I took a short vacation down to the Primland resort in Western VA and got to drive some of the blue ridge parkway and some of the surrounding roads, and I was really wishing i had a bike or my little bmw instead of the stupid toyota i was driving. If you're looking for a fun weekend getaway, that place is beautiful - they've got gorgeous cabins, a great golf course and the lodge is incredible as well. we were there in February to take advantage of the clear skies and observatory they have on the premises, so it was really quite as well. It was a fabulous weekend.
Also, thanks for the heads up - i'd read 15-50 was the weight I wanted - i think i have some 10-40 mobile one laying around actually [thumbsup]
10-40.. which is thinner than 15-50 ;)
Quote from: Barney on August 08, 2016, 09:08:20 AM
Also, thanks for the heads up - i'd read 15-50 was the weight I wanted - i think i have some 10-40 mobile one laying around actually [thumbsup]
Has to be motorcycle 10W40 Racing 4T. Clutch might slip on auto oil. $2- more/Qt. ;D
If you want to use 15W50, use Red Line. The car Red Line High Performance has no friction modifiers so the clutch doesn't slip. Use it in my M796, but it's not necessary for a Bonneville which is a stone ax. ;)
Panda, the manual lists 10W40 M/C oil except for extreme temps. NJ isn't AZ. 8)
Quote from: Curmudgeon on August 08, 2016, 09:18:11 AM
NJ isn't AZ. 8)
You're right - way worse.
*Bah dum kish!
Quote from: Curmudgeon on August 08, 2016, 09:18:11 AM
Has to be motorcycle 10W40 Racing 4T. Clutch might slip on auto oil. $2- more/Qt. ;D
If you want to use 15W50, use Red Line. The car Red Line High Performance has no friction modifiers so the clutch doesn't slip. Use it in my M796, but it's not necessary for a Bonneville which is a stone ax. ;)
Panda, the manual lists 10W40 M/C oil except for extreme temps. NJ isn't AZ. 8)
it always gets nasty when NJ is brought up, but my guess is the slippery panda bear hasn't ever seen the state [clap]
Yea, the 10-40 i think i have is the 4T, wouldn't use the auto stuff in there for sure. [thumbsup]
also, i just found out i've got a Triumph dealer not 10 minutes from my office, so i'll be swinging by there for a new filter and maybe a couple of other nuts and bolts tomorrow. I have a feeling this bike isn't going to be leaving my garage nearly as soon as originally planned...
Quote from: Barney on August 08, 2016, 09:54:41 AM
it always gets nasty when NJ is brought up, but my guess is the slippery panda bear hasn't ever seen the state [clap]
Oh I'm from Philly originally. Seen it plenty - good and bad.
I just like to take the shit out of NJ folks... it's a hobby
Quote from: Slide Panda on August 08, 2016, 09:56:25 AM
Oh I'm from Philly originally. Seen it plenty - good and bad.
I just like to take the shit out of NJ folks... it's a hobby
You're from Philly and you think you can talk shit on Jersey?! these guys...
seriously though, i went to UDel and one of my best friends Drexel, so I've spent my fair share of time in the city - he bought a place in fishtown about 10 years ago and i've seen that part of the city absolutely come alive in the last 2-3 years. it's a really great place these days.
Your GF would like my custom Sargent built on a stock pan but it cost a bit. After three OEM saddles, became a necessity. Sargent don't make their own for Bonneville because Bonneville people are penny-wise and pound-foolish apparently. [roll] The OEM King and Queen saddle is reportedly good but butt-ugly. (No pun.) The 17" wheel bikes have lower saddles to match. Pretty much all the stock ones are planks.
The T-100 fender is long and keeps me dry but base Bonnevilles and Scramblers have short fenders, so look for one of those.
You come from my old market where I sold $$$ European vehicles. Wall St. and Madison Ave bedrooms were the best for that. Forget NJ for much esle though. Commuted from near the Water Gap where there WERE some decent rural roads and rolling farm country. Roads out my front door are Rte. 6 and 522 which are fun on any bike, little traffic mid-week and few [leo] once you get west of here 30 miles. Wish I could have done it much sooner though!
Quote from: Curmudgeon on August 08, 2016, 10:21:58 AM
Your GF would like my custom Sargent built on a stock pan but it cost a bit. After three OEM saddles, became a necessity. Sargent don't make their own for Bonneville because Bonneville people are penny-wise and pound-foolish apparently. [roll] The OEM King and Queen saddle is reportedly good but butt-ugly. (No pun.) The 17" wheel bikes have lower saddles to match. Pretty much all the stock ones are planks.
The T-100 fender is long and keeps me dry but base Bonnevilles and Scramblers have short fenders, so look for one of those.
You come from my old market where I sold $$$ European vehicles. Wall St. and Madison Ave bedrooms were the best for that. Forget NJ for much esle though. Commuted from near the Water Gap where there WERE some decent rural roads and rolling farm country. Roads out my front door are Rte. 6 and 522 which are fun on any bike, little traffic mid-week and few [leo] once you get west of here 30 miles. Wish I could have done it much sooner though!
there are some good roads the further west you head, morris county has some pretty good stuff and as you said, the gap is a good place to ride - I can also head north up to Bear mountain and beyond which offer a lot of great mountain roads.
as far as the other aspects of NJ, we've got tons of restaurants that rival anything you'd find in manhattan, the beaches are gorgeous if you stay away from the touritsy areas, and i've got one of the best mountain bike parks at Mountain Creek, an hour away with full lift service and like 50 trails..that i can also ski in the winter time. When I still had the KTM, i could take it down south and rip hundreds of miles of trails in the pine barrons. There are actually some pretty good country roads down there as well. It may be a silly place, but I like it here. [thumbsup] You just have to watch out for the jackasses, and there are plenty of them. They give the rest of us a bad name. [bang]
The gap and further west gets rural in a hurry too. My uncle lives in Easton PA, so I head out there every now and again. Easton itself isn't bad, but it's a little quite for me out in those parts though...
As for the bike - I found an LSL aftermarket seat/fender combo thats got an awesome flat track style, but it's spendy and it's probably not very comfortable. I also saw that rolland sands has some pretty nice looking seats as well. I've not heard anything good about any of the stock seats from the bonnie or the thruxton - my brother in law's brother has a bonnie as well, and he's gone through at least as many seats as you trying to find something comfortable. the thought also crossed my mind of trying to shape the stock seat to my liking and having it custom upholstered as well...i have absolutely no idea how i'd do that though [laugh]
Better not to tell anyone about W.NJ but probably too late. The other problem is/was NJ taxes which forced corporate support personnel to commute from PA to their Jersey offices, further snarling I-80, I-78, etc. I lived near Allamuchy Mt. which was good enough to teach a protege of mine to ride. He's made of iron of course but has 16 ISDT/ISDE gold medals. ;) Believe that's the USA record.
Spencer Great Day to Ride mod is probably the cheapest solution if it works. A lot of people like him. My Sargent cost $400+ and this is a sample similar to mine belonging to a pal. Troy is the contact for custom at Sargent.
(http://www.triumphrat.net/members/albums/48473-lambroving/steve-s-sargent-592-picture1811-sargent-side.jpg)
Most of that other stuff is cosmetic rather than functional and for people who'd rather "profile" than ride distances. You'd probably want something comfortable if you plan to take the GF along very often. ;)
Flat track and 17" wheels don't compute in my feeble mind. Had you bought an already tricked out Scrambler..., well..., maybe... ;D
I dont have a lot of miles on the thing yet, but it definitely feels better suited for backroads trips than putting tons of highway miles on, so I don't imagine running it for hours at a time like i do the monster. Even less so with a passenger, but she did really enjoy the trip around the block we went on and she's been sending me pictures of bikes all day now...I guess i'm going to be hanging on to the thing. You're probably right about the flat track thing - it's probably a look better suited for the CL, if i ever get around to working on that thing.
I've seen a couple of others with agressively chopped fenders that look really nice though - something like this for example, maybe just a little bit more substantial.
(http://kickstart.bikeexif.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/spirit-70s-triumph-bonneville-3.jpg)'
we're gettin ahead of ourselves here though, I still need to get the thing running right.
Also, i have a friend who trains for enduros up in the northwest of new jersey somewhere - but i sold my bike before he moved back up here, and he refuses to show me where it is until i've got a bike. i imagine it's not exactly legal [evil]
The standard short rear fenders aren't much larger than that. Solo seat not that useful but the OEM solo with rack is comfortable for some and available. IMO lights should be visible or you'll be rear-ended.
Used to ride the ~150 miles of trail, basically everything in green in the middle here. Not sure how legal anymore and risky in hunting season possibly, but it's steep, rocky, rutted and you need serious machinery to think about it. Had a Maico 250 GS and a 440 GS later. I'd like to see someone catch you in there. [evil] https://binged.it/2b9u9er (https://binged.it/2b9u9er)
I know the area a little bit - used to ride mountain bikes up there. It might not be hard to get away, but if you did get caught, i doubt anyone would go very easy on you, lol. He's running a couple of KTM 300xcws if i'm not mistaken...I used to have a 200, which in my opinion was an almost perfect bike. Plenty of power, but with plenty of usable torque even off the pipe..and it sounded so good when you got on it. It was really light too. The 250s and 300s scared me, but then I was never very good at those things [thumbsdown]
I fiddled around with bonnie this evening and after about 2 hours of searching, and googling and searching again, I determined that my bike does not have a vehicle speed sensor, which is what that P0500 code tells me is missing, and it also doesn't have a mechanical connection to the front wheel, so I have no idea how the speedo ever worked...I thought I saw it working the first time I took it down the road for a test ride, but I'm guessing I was paying more attention to how shitty everything else was on the bike that it didn't register that the speedo wasn't registering anything. [bang] I'm waiting on a from Mr. Forchetto at the moment to let me know where to look next.
See you found Dr. F, or better, he found you! ;) Not a fan of that forum but the community is great once you figure out who knows their stuff. Nicer than Dr. F they don't come. He doesn't shoot from the hip either.
How did your VIN compare to the VIN range he gave you for the speedo? Not sure what's going on there. A 17" wheel bike with a mechanical speedo looks like this: http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Gallery%20C/Triumph%20Bonneville%2010.jpg (http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Gallery%20C/Triumph%20Bonneville%2010.jpg)
Just had a look again, and it does not look to me like the vins match up, so I guess when i said it looks as if every nut and bolt on the thing has been turned at some point, i probably wasn't wrong - this is bike just got even more interesting... [popcorn]
And you're right - I could tell that guy knew his stuff from the first post I read, and judging by the sheer number of threads i've seen him post in, it does seem like he's a genuinely nice guy and really enjoys tinkering with these bikes and helping out others as well. I'd say we have a few guys like that around here too.
Dr. F. gave you the VIN range of the bikes with CanBus and all the exceptions. Amazing. So you have a bike with a pre-CanBus engine installed. Will be interesting to see how they suggest you get around all the issues. Makes my head hurt. :'( Just from what little I know, any fix will be expensive. You could wait for stuff to show up on eBay of course or look in salvage yards for various bits.
Offhand, if you could find a 2010 ECU with tune 20187 on the sticker, you could start there. Then you need a new set of clocks. If the harness is the same, you'd have a tach that way. No clue whether your front wheel is machined to take a mechanical speedo drive. Hermy's should have or can get most of the little stuff to make that work. Not sure what else I'm forgetting.
If the AI is still present, plug it for now at the air box and the throttle snatch might be improved. See above.
Good luck!
the intake looks to be stock, and actually after i cleared the codes the first time I didn't see the p1108 again, so I guess taking care of the vacuum leak fixed that. I'm not terribly concerned with the snatchyness at the moment - it really is very minor and the only real complaint I had for the entire ride. I maybe felt it twice. does the tach also run off of the speed sensor? I'd be curious if I could just hook one up - we don't have inspection here in NJ so with that and a mechanical odo or small hours meter hidden somewhere I'd be happy - keep it super simple and get rid of all the gauges...probably wind up on the side of the road out of gas on a regular basis though ???
He did say that certain bikes were fit with the sensor prior to going 100% to them, and my case does have the spot where the sensor would sit, albeit without the mounting threads - i'd be curious whether or not there might be a rotor under there for the sensor? definitely a long shot..I'm going to be getting in touch with the guy i bought it from today, as even though i knew it was going to be a project, i was not expecting this much and I'm no longer so sure I got a fair price.
Have a look at the sticker on the ECU and see what tune it has. That ought to tell you where it came from and whether it is CanBus specific.
Tunes are listed here on the TuneEcu site:
Early versions: http://www.tuneecu.com/Twin_OEM_obsolete_Tune_list.html (http://www.tuneecu.com/Twin_OEM_obsolete_Tune_list.html)
Later: http://www.tuneecu.com/Twin_OEM_Tune_list.html (http://www.tuneecu.com/Twin_OEM_Tune_list.html)
Cool - i'll take a look at that when i get home - the nice thing about this bike is how easy it is to work on! i had the whole thing apart in 20 minutes last night, including removing the tank.
Also, i had no idea how nice a center stand would be. I'm going to need to pick up a Pit Bull stand for the monster now...
Been following your posts on the RAT. Did you figure out what ECU and tune the bike is running (from the sticker)? Give them that info too. Could be a hint about the wiring loom fitted. Might make a difference with the speedo/odo you want to fit. 8)
totally slipped my mind last night - i'll take a look this evening.
Thanks [thumbsup]