Hi folks.
I’m working on my 2000 Monster S ie. It was stalling intermittently as if on one cylinder.
I accidentally noticed when I turn the head stock, the fuel pump primes again. I traced it down to the wires on the kill switch. When the brown wire is wiggled, it will trigger the fuel pump to prime. What’s odd is that if I wiggle it with a volt meter on it I do not see a voltage drop.
Any ideas?
Broken/chafed wires in the harness, where it wraps around the steering head, were common on first gen Monsters.
[thumbsup]
Quote from: ducpainter on July 11, 2019, 12:03:00 PM
Broken/chafed wires in the harness, where it wraps around the steering head, were common on first gen Monsters.
Had this happen multiple times on my 97 M900.
One of the wires was broken internally. I was able to slice the suspected area with a razor and sure enough, the wires were frayed and broken.
I made the repair and the fuel pump no longer cycles but it did not cure my stalling issue. Perhaps I’m fighting more than one gremlin....
Back to the drawing board.
Concurrent issues will trick experienced mechanics. One down. [thumbsup] Suspect tuning issues or the sidestand cutout switch.
On a side note I have raced three NC30's in Formula 400. Little gems.
koko64 - love the NC30. Just did a track day with it and had a blast.
From other posts I've noticed that the side stand switch could be the issue as well. I've also read about a small safety relay under the seat that goes bad but mine does not appear to have one.....only a yellow relay and a larger black relay. The rubber holder is built for all three relays but only two present.
I've seen the spade connectors on the wires going to the coils get loose or corroded.
Quote from: ctadams21 on July 12, 2019, 04:59:52 AM
koko64 - love the NC30. Just did a track day with it and had a blast.
From other posts I've noticed that the side stand switch could be the issue as well. I've also read about a small safety relay under the seat that goes bad but mine does not appear to have one.....only a yellow relay and a larger black relay. The rubber holder is built for all three relays but only two present.
Carbie bikes have a relay for the side stand switch, on your injected bike the ECU takes care of that chore. You can bypass the main relay (the little yellow one that doesn't click when you use your turn signals) by jumping from terminal 30 to terminal 87 and go for a ride. Still have a problem? Try bypassing the side stand switch grey to black, i think.
Before that, do as Speeddog suggested, coil connections.
Cool, thanks.
The coil connections appear good but I will use a small wire wheel to clean the terminals up and try again. Then I'll check the relay.
Cleaned all the terminals, although they were not that bad. Used the jumper wire to bypass the relay and went for a 10 mile test ride. Bike idled fine, WOT was fine, and part throttle cruising fine. I did not experience any loss of power. Tomorrow I'll ride it some more to be sure and pick up a new relay. Fingers crossed. Thanks for the advise and direction.
The relay is cheap enough. Bring the relay to a realauto parts store and they should be able to find a match for you.
Napa 192D relay did the trick for $10. Keeping the jumper wire under the seat just in case though.
I still think it's odd that it didn't just completely shut the bike down. There were times that I could limp it home running like crap. Oh well. Seems good to go now. [thumbsup]
Quote from: ctadams21 on July 15, 2019, 07:02:44 PM
Napa 192D relay did the trick for $10. Keeping the jumper wire under the seat just in case though.
I still think it's odd that it didn't just completely shut the bike down. There were times that I could limp it home running like crap. Oh well. Seems good to go now. [thumbsup]
It's rare for the relays to go 'halfway' like that, I had an ST that presented with low fuel pressure, and it was the relay.
I don't see how they can have enough resistance to clip the voltage without burning up, it just seems that would violate physics.