Picked up a new to me 2005 S2R 800 Analog Motorycycles custom (pic below). Beautiful bike but I notice the fueling has lean spots in the 3-4k rev range which can be pretty annoying at low speeds as the bike feels like it's lurching forward. Above 4k it smooths out. From what I've read it sounds like this common behavior with this bike. (true?)
BTW-The bike is equipped with Arrow slipons and standard airbox.
I've picked up a PC 3 and was hoping to use an existing map to try and smooth out the fuel deliver in that range.
My question is should I also be opening up the Airbox? I'm planning on replacing the stock filter with a K&N filter. Should I just zip tie the filter in and not use the cover if I'm going to go PC3 Maps for this thereby "opening up the airbox"
Any info is appreciated.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48728520351_d725673f13_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2heYpqB)69614846_10219804976542845_8030057739218583552_n (https://flic.kr/p/2heYpqB) by Rick Nieto (https://www.flickr.com/photos/184427968@N07/), on Flickr
If your bike is likely to sit out in the rain, I'd say don't do it.
you can temporarily install just the filter securing it so that it seals well.
Ride the bike and see if you like the sound.
Some folks like it, some don't.
If you like it, saw the top off the airbox lid, that was the ofishull Ducati Performance mod.
Then do the PCIII.
2005 S2R800 is EURO2 and a little bit less lean than the '07, but still lean. With that exhaust and an open airbox you'll need and enjoy a CUSTOM tuned PC III. Smooth and more powerful [thumbsup]
open it up !! sounds great as well ..but yes get a map for the PC3
Did the wiretap on the TPS but now I"m struggling to locate the front and rear injectors. I think the front injector is right under the airbox and just above the TPS but I'm not certain. I have no idea where the rear injector is. The Dynojet pics are pretty shitty. Anyone got a better pic or diagram? Do I have to remove the airbox to access the front and rear injector?
For the vertical cylinder it's on the left side, on top of the metal part of the intake, very close to the air box. Horizontal cylinder same story, but on the right side.
Yes, take the airbox off.
Don't mix up the two injector leads from the harness.
If you swap them it'll run, but run crappy.
How do you disconnect the injectors? I dont want to break anything. Got the airbox lifted up but not all the way out. I can see the injectors and I see a little metal clip on the connector but I dont see how you disconnect so you can pull it out. Is it a squeeze the side tabs. I dont see anything sticking out on the metal clip to push in. This is trickier than I expected.
Use metal picks to get the clips off but don't lose them. One pick to lift and one to slide into the gap. Pry off gently with one pick and grab it with the free hand or with a magnet.
DJ have a map library so check it out as they have maps for different mods to try. One may be close enough to be ok. If not finish it off with a dyno tune to perfection. They should have an open AB map with pipes as it's pretty common or just a map for pipes and K&N filter.
If those clips are the type I think they are, just push on the straight section with your thumb and pull the connector off the injector. The clip doesn't need to be removed.
Hopefully you're right Nate as that's the easier type to remove. These have a recess on the connector body with the wire running over it with a 5mm or so gap. You just press the wire down into the gap and pull. The PCV connectors I've seen also use this type.
The other type has the wire clip flush to the connector because it rests in a tiny groove and needs the wire to be pried off with a pick at its end where it bends at right angles. Some oem connectors have these which are common in automotive use. The two Evo's I have owned have this oem type which requires a sharp pointed pick and some finesse to remove.
A pic would help us decide...no? ;)
The style that releases with pressure works so well...why would anyone change? [bang]
The 2V injectors all seem to have the flush clip style.
Total PITA.
Here's the flush clip style:
(https://www.corsasbk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Ducati-OEM-282.4.039.1A-Throttle-body-4331.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/151321213318-0-1/s-l1000.jpg)
(http://www.getfast1.com/assets/images/Electrical/EFI_6.jpg)
And here's the good kind:
(https://cdn3.volusion.com/yhsmu.vhmzu/v/vspfiles/photos/C10A-DU-2.jpg?1364265238)
Quote from: Speeddog on September 14, 2019, 11:35:16 AM
The 2V injectors all seem to have the flush clip style.
Total PITA.
Here's the flush clip style:
(https://www.corsasbk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Ducati-OEM-282.4.039.1A-Throttle-body-4331.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/151321213318-0-1/s-l1000.jpg)
(http://www.getfast1.com/assets/images/Electrical/EFI_6.jpg)
And here's the good kind:
(https://cdn3.volusion.com/yhsmu.vhmzu/v/vspfiles/photos/C10A-DU-2.jpg?1364265238)
Quote from: ducpainter on September 14, 2019, 07:46:11 AM
A pic would help us decide...no? ;)
The style that releases with pressure works so well...why would anyone change? [bang]
Bugger.
How did you go?
Thanks to the guidance here it all went well. BTW It was flush clip style for the injector connectors but not too bad once I found a post on the proper tool to use (some type of dental type pic with a hook at the end) to pop the clip up. Loaded the canned MAP that most closely matched my setup (Full Arrow, K&N, Stock Airbox) but that was still stuttering at 3-4k and kept stalling. Opened up the airbox and loaded a custom map provided by a member here with a similar setup to mine (thanks Ute!) and it ran much better. Still idling a bit lean and stalling at 0 throttle (even while cornering) and it seems a bit weak off the line. One key difference is Utes bike has a 14t front mine is stock 15t so I assume dropping a tooth in the front would improve the torque in the low RPMs. Gonna try tweaking the Map a little using the software to see if I can get it where I want it. Might swap out the front sprocket to 14t as that''s an easy mod. Last option if I'm still not 100% happy will be to get it Dyno'd.
Not sure if I love the exhaust sound with the open airbox it's (dare I say it) almost too loud and went from sexy growl to full on roar/scream but both are good options and I'm more concerned with the performance than the exhaust sound. Debating putting the airbox lid back on before Dynotuning if I do decide to Dynotune it. Thanks for everyones help here. Would've taken a lot longer without everyones quick input.
Glad I could help !!
And yes it is loud with the open box and Arrorws ...... a lot of intake sound
You will get used to it Honestly it is adcitive ..The 14t makes a huge difference pick one up off ebay or amazon
[thumbsup]
Now you can tune as your bike evolves.
So I havent been able to tweak the Map I got from a generous member here to not stall at low RPMs. I called my local Duc Dealer about a DynoTune and they said they do not do DynoTuning on PCIII because they've seen too many errors and the bikes just come right back. They said I would need to go to a PC5 before they would touch it. Has anyone here heard the same? Kinda surprised, I would think this would be something that would be addressed in firmware. Frustrated cause I smoothed out 3-4k but now low RPMs the bike stalls. Thoughts?
I've had great success with my bike, tuned on a Dyno with a PCIII. Maybe the really good results are obtained ONLY combined with the DP no-O2-sensor'ed ECU.....
I still have my PCIII custom map from my S2R800 if you want to look at it. Mine was mapped for each cylinder separately.
2006 Ducati Monster S2R 800cc
Termignoni Race exhaust and midpipe
K&N Airfilter modified lid
Stock ECU
Also keep in mind to sync throttle bodies and adjust air to fuel ratios. If those are off no map will help at all.
I would say try Heaths map it's an easy write to the PCIII maybe it will be closer or maybe you can tweak it to work as well
When I tweak my Map I noticed that the % Throttle Value in the PC Software Map display doesnt change when I twist the throttle. Is there something wrong in my connectivity when I installed it? Is this just because I havent synced the Bikes Throttle Position Sensor with the PC Software? I would have thought that performing that sync improved the accuracy but wasnt required to get any output in that field in the display.
Quote. open airbox it's (dare I say it) almost too loud
.
Get a new lid and open only front part. Gets you enough air and much more quiet.
I still have my old lid I dremeled off. Would it be feasible to dremel open the front and duct tape it back on? There's not too much hit there correct?