So I've just about killed my OEM clutch & I'm looking for a replacement...... do I go EVR from Monsterparts with their Ergal 48T kit, OEM again, Barnett? Not enough dough or interest to go the slipper route but I figure if I can upgrade it for a similiar cost, why not.
Haven't priced out the OEM basket & plates yet but I like the idea of shedding some weight & reducing the drag.
Thoughts ???
My experience w/ Barnett's wasn't the best. For some reason I can't use the full stack height they suggest. I dunno if the previous owner swapped out the push rod or what but it won't disengage for me. I remember a customer of Chris at CA-cycleworks had some serious problems a stack of Barnetts as well but Chris got them to replace the faulty stack.
I can't remember how much my stock basket and plates cost so I've got no real useful input. The best I can guess was $150 for plates and $200-300 for the basket.
If you wanna do it on the cheap, keep an eye out on ebay.
I was able to pick up a stock basket and plates that were nearly brand new for about 20 bucks.
I'd keep it OEM.
I've read that the current version of the Barnett plates (with red friction material) are not holding up well. I'm going to be in the same situation soon, hope someone knows of some better alternatives.
The red material works well while it works, they just don't work long. I've gotten maybe 6000 miles until serious slippage begins.
Nutts said pretty much the same thing I believe in relation to track use.
LA
Quote from: LA on August 16, 2008, 07:30:05 PM
The red material works well while it works, they just don't work long. I've gotten maybe 6000 miles until serious slippage begins.
Nutts said pretty much the same thing I believe in relation to track use.
LA
When did they start using those plates?
Anybody try the Nichols basket with the Barnett Dryflex plates ???
I'm leaning towards that or the EVR setup....... price looks similar...... anybody with any FHE on either setup ???
Why do you think you killed your clutch? ,whats wrong with it?
I'm wondering about the Pro-Cutting Gen II hard anodized basket with Surflex plates. Saw this combo on the Desmo-Times site. Its claimed to shed about 2.5 lbs of rotating mass.
Quote from: supertjeduc on August 17, 2008, 02:13:37 AM
Why do you think you killed your clutch? ,whats wrong with it?
Well it's not dead but it's gotten so loud I can barely hear the Arrows ;D
I'll keep it in until it starts to slip I was just thinking ahead [thumbsup]
btw I'm at 13,000 miles on the OEM so I haven't abused it by any means...... no need really as the torque makes for easy power wheelies [evil]
Quote from: Ivan on August 17, 2008, 07:15:55 AM
I'm wondering about the Pro-Cutting Gen II hard anodized basket with Surflex plates. Saw this combo on the Desmo-Times site. Its claimed to shed about 2.5 lbs of rotating mass.
I think you should buy one Ivan & give us a review ;)
Seems that the Nichols, Desmo-Times, & EVR clutches all claim 2.5 to 3.5 lb. weight reduction...... I wonder whichone would be best for daily commuting & the the occasional 33 run ???
Quote from: Gus Duc on August 17, 2008, 04:03:04 PM
I think you should buy one Ivan & give us a review ;)
I think mine has at least another coupla thou before I need to do something (I'm just shy of 12k mi). It still works just fine; but, like yours its really getting loud. I can also see that the plates have worn some deep grooves into the basket.
The problem with any clutch is that the basket/tang clearance will typically be out of spec way before the friction material wears out.
From what I hear on the forums, members worry less about the 'noise' than the grip. And I guess that many members don't realize that an overly noisy clutch is a buggered clutch.
My (ex) OEM clutch had 2mm basket/tang gap, that's 1.4mm out of spec when the friction material was at the lower limit of 2.8mm. If it was the original unit then it had 36000 kms on it when I changed it.
I've now got a ProCutting/Barnett combo (not surflex) from LT. In just 1000kms the unit started getting noisy, the basket tang gap went from next to nothing to 0.3mm. I'm keeping an eye on the gaps and the friction pad thickness. I've got 4000 kms on the unit so far and so far so good. The initial high wear on the tangs seems to have abated.
The last time I measured it was at 0.38mm. Mind you this 'gap' is hard to measure accurately with the plates in situ. Measuring in place may be misleading; the inner plates seem to wear much more than the outer plates.
I'm keeping a history of the measurements on LT's Desmotimes forum; for those that are interested. I intend to post every 1000kms; about every month. http://ssnyder.proboards7.com (http://ssnyder.proboards7.com)
Overhere in Holland we have a dealer (den Biggelaar) who sells kits for making clutches sillent
My clutch has such a kit and i am now at 48000km and only had to replace the plates at about 35000km
Basket is as new
Quote from: erkishhorde on August 14, 2008, 10:14:32 PM
My experience w/ Barnett's wasn't the best. For some reason I can't use the full stack height they suggest. I dunno if the previous owner swapped out the push rod or what but it won't disengage for me. I remember a customer of Chris at CA-cycleworks had some serious problems a stack of Barnetts as well but Chris got them to replace the faulty stack.
I can't remember how much my stock basket and plates cost so I've got no real useful input. The best I can guess was $150 for plates and $200-300 for the basket.
i had to discard the two connical shaped spring rotors they supplied.clutch now works.ie disengages properly.
I used a Yoyodyne from Fred and it worked very well. It was cheaper than the others at under $1000 and is a little over 2 lbs. lighter with the Barnett red plates - I think remember it that way.
The slipper is real nice if you're backing it into corners real hard.
The only time I didn't like it was when I killed my battery and needed to bump start it. You can forget that.
LA
i just picked up a nichols basket and barnett red plates from chris at ca-cycleworks and its great. my old clutch had probably 3mm of gap and was crazy loud, it still grabbed well but the noise was too much. now its near silent, i can finally hear my staintune exhaust when in neutral.