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What is the smart way to take off the air box and battery bracket?

Started by Ducatista, August 07, 2008, 06:55:50 PM

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Ducatista

Bike: 1999 M900s with an open air box

When taking the bike apart to get at the carbs, we discovered the intricacies of Italian engineering.  Sure, the trellis frame is super nice for squeezing hands in there, but the stupid m-fing air box/battery bracket assy is a female dog to get off.  You can't slide it back, because the L-shape hooks onto the carbs and wants to rip them off.  You can't just lift it from the front because there is some tab of unknown use that is coming off the ignition thingy that prevents that.  What is the smart way to take it out without having 4 hands and (wo)man-handling it past the carbs?  Is there something we missed?
carbon fiber Superbike front fender, bar end mirrors, floating cast iron rotors, carbon fiber chin fairing, Cycle Cat frame sliders, Arrow carbon fiber low mount slip ons, Rizoma billet cam belt covers w/ plexi windows, Rizoma billet front sprocket cover, billet handlebar clamp, carbon fiber rear hugger, tail chop, open air box, Corbin seat, stainless clutch springs w/ black keepers, suicideless sidestand bolt, Evoluzione clutch slave cylinder

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ducpainter

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Ducatista

Quote from: ducpainter on August 07, 2008, 07:06:04 PM
Remove the ignition switch.

Ahhhh... true.  Duh, really.  Stillie was avoiding this because one bolt didn't want to come out.  We already had one bolt shear straight off (the left one in the bottom of the battery bracket).  This is what happens when you try to remove parts that haven't been removed since they were put in.   :-\
carbon fiber Superbike front fender, bar end mirrors, floating cast iron rotors, carbon fiber chin fairing, Cycle Cat frame sliders, Arrow carbon fiber low mount slip ons, Rizoma billet cam belt covers w/ plexi windows, Rizoma billet front sprocket cover, billet handlebar clamp, carbon fiber rear hugger, tail chop, open air box, Corbin seat, stainless clutch springs w/ black keepers, suicideless sidestand bolt, Evoluzione clutch slave cylinder

www.myspace.com/bitgoddess

Jarvicious

Quote from: Ducatista on August 07, 2008, 07:53:14 PM
This is what happens when you try to remove parts that haven't been removed since they were put in.   :-\

If you have the time (or foresight) to hit the bolts with some pb blaster or wd40 a little while before you work on here, it usually makes things a whole lot easier.  If I remember, I try and do it the night before to maximize penetration of the blaster.  Just remember to clean the bolts well before you put them back in.....
We're liberated by the hearts that imprison us.  We're taken hostage by the ones that we break.

Speeddog

For reassembly, you'll find that silicone spray will make getting the rubber boots back on the carbs a whole lot easier.
Really works great for any rubber parts; grommets, breather and drain lines that go into the airbox, etc.
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Ducatista

Thanks for all the tips!  This is one of the many reasons why I love this forum.  Post a question and WHAMMO, you have what you asked for plus a whole bunch of other useful stuff. 
carbon fiber Superbike front fender, bar end mirrors, floating cast iron rotors, carbon fiber chin fairing, Cycle Cat frame sliders, Arrow carbon fiber low mount slip ons, Rizoma billet cam belt covers w/ plexi windows, Rizoma billet front sprocket cover, billet handlebar clamp, carbon fiber rear hugger, tail chop, open air box, Corbin seat, stainless clutch springs w/ black keepers, suicideless sidestand bolt, Evoluzione clutch slave cylinder

www.myspace.com/bitgoddess

dlearl476

I'm a lazy make the beast with two backs so when I took mine off, I opted out of taking the ignition switch off.  Instead, IIRC, I just loosened the carb hose clamps and tilted back of the box up towards the forks then lifted it straight up once there was enough clearance to clear the ign. switch.  The carbs came loose (no big deal for me as I was installing FCRs anyway, but no biggie to tighten them back up if you're not.

Also, the one thing I forgot is the starter solenoid, under the battery on the right side.  Bit of an issue but made it through.  Would have been a lot easier if I unfastened it from the battery box first.