How to: Repack Spark Exhaust system (w/pics)

[doulos]

Disclaimer: I am not a pro.  This was the first time I did this.  A lot of what I learned came from watching web videos and reading threads from TOB.  You may do it differently than me, that's OK.

With that said let's get started.

I bought this system used from a member here.  He had disassembled it and had it bead blasted as he was going to have it ceramic coated.
This is how it came.


At this point I tried researching what Spark originally put inside their cans and if they sold a repack kit for it.
Never got any answer about a kit.  The Desmoworld site has a kit for the 748-998 but nothing for the Monster.
So by looking at their photo and info provided by the previous owner, I bought the following
1# roll of AISI 434 Stainless Steel Wool, coarse
(1) 2ft x 3ft x 1inch thick Superwool Blanket (a synthetic ceramic fiber blanket, used to line kilns)
You will also need (24) #10 closed end rivets and a rivet gun.

I sent out my whole exhaust system for ceramic coating, in satin black.
Looks like this.


The Stainless Steel Wool and the Superwool Blanket.


Put on protective gloves before handling the fiber blanket and a dust mask if you desire.
Next cut the blanket the length of the can using a straight edge and utility knife.


Next cut the steel wool to length, enough to cover pipe.


Allow for end cap to slide over pipe and wrap it.


Next cut the blanket to the proper length by a trial roll first, allow for a little overlap.


Roll the blanket around the pipe, no wire, ties, or tape necessary.
Make sure it is stuffed into the front cap.


Holding the pipe with my knees, use one hand to keep the blanket tight, with the other hand slide can over blanket.
You can use a twisting motion to slide the can over the blanket.


The hard part is aligning the holes in the cover with the holes in the cap.  The Spark system is very tight tolerance, so I used a little liquid soap to get the CF covers into the caps.  You can use a drift punch or appropriate sized drill bit to get final alignment of the holes.  Insert all four rivets before you begin riveting.  Then rivet away.

Note: I did not use any exhaust sealant assembling the cans and there were no leaks out of the can ends or the mounting plates.  If you want to, go for it.

Rivet the mounting plates to the cans in the same fashion.

Slide the end cap over can assembly and once again align all the holes.  Insert all rivets as above, then rivet.

Since this topic is about repacking the cans, I'll leave it to you to put all the pipes back on the bike.

But it should look something like this.


I know, I'll probally paint the rivet heads to match.  But I wanted to hear them. 

The sound is perfect to me.   
A very deep sound.  Loud, but not louder than straight pipes on a Harley.
Sounds like this, only mine is deeper still;    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGaAvVDRaZo

Hope this helps someone.

Doulos

[SubyBoyRS]

Awesome write up.  I only have one question... roughly what was the materials cost for repacking both cans?  I can't imagine it being that much, especially compared to a kit offered by an exhaust company or Ducati. 

[doulos]

It was $16.00 for the stainless steel wool and $3.00/sqft for the Superwool, plus shipping.
I would estimate the cost of material used in each can to be $5.00 or less.
I choose the Superwool for its 2300 deg. F temp. rating, it should never burn out.

[ducatiz]

I did the exact same thing with my Sparks cans and pipes (had them ceramic coated inside and out), however, I left off the blanket. 

The difference is a small amount of heat, but not enough to matter, and a lower/louder sound.

MAKE SURE to use stainless steel wool and you'll never have to repack them at all.  The blanket crap eventually rots and if you use only the stainless wool, it won't rust in your lifetime.