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Rattle can paint job

Started by Bbrent, August 31, 2008, 12:25:05 AM

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red baron

"I believe there are more instances of the abridgment of freedom of the people by gradual and silent encroachments of those in power than by violent and sudden usurpations... James Madison

Monstermash

What ever you do, don't just use an off the shelf can of clearcoat. Those clears will just get eaten away when/if you spill any fuel on it.

Find a local auto body supply shop in your area and buy the clear from them. They can add a hardener to it that will make it resist the damaging effects of fuel.
I've been wallowing in my own chaotic and insecure delusions.



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Bbrent

Yeah, I shoulda taped and painted my ugly ass toes too.

josh12730

Really cool job. Where did you get the tank decals? I'm looking for a set of tank decals as well, but 70's era style

domingjm2

Duracoat is principally designed for firearm finishes so it's significantly more durable than the brittle Krylon/RustOleum stuff. I've tried all three on firearms, metals and plastics and Duracoat is remarkably resilient on all three, and also quite solvent resistant. I would worry about rattle can stuff around gas, chain lube, oil, etc.

They have literally any color you can imagine. Check them out. I have one of the purples in mind for the frame after the riding season.

http://www.lauerweaponry.com/

arai_speed

Great going Brian!  That looks really really nice!  [thumbsup]

tangueroHondo

I recall that some guy on TOB did a tank with the durocoat stuff used on truck bed liners!  It looked really good.  No need for snakeskin grips on the sides of the tank!

toaster

Quote from: josh12730 on September 01, 2008, 05:29:47 PM
Really cool job. Where did you get the tank decals? I'm looking for a set of tank decals as well, but 70's era style

ebay my friend, ebay.

just search for "ducati decal" and i got two or three of those ones on the first page.

Bbrent

I got all my decals off ebay. There are plenty to chose from. I hear you guys on the clearcoat issue. I've read alot about this from other treads on this forum and was sure to get a clearcoat that had a hardener in it. I originally wanted to do a matte finish but the auto paint shop I bought all the cans from explained that you can't get a spraycan clearcoat in matte that has a hardener in it.

TiNi

that's a nice lookin' paint job  [thumbsup]
for a rattle can job that is...

TAftonomos

Looks great!

Wondering what was wrong with the tank, and how you go about repairing a plastic one (I've got a new color sheme in mind, but would like to put my stock stuff aside)

Bbrent

There wasn't much wrong with the tank. It had been in a wreck and there were alot of deep digs and scrathes but with alot of sanding I got it pretty smooth. I rattle canned the clear coat tonight and it looks like crap. Tomorrow I will be sanding that too and adding another coat.

TAftonomos

Don't bother rattle can clearing it.

Unless you are using UPOL or the stuff from RM, there is no hardener in it, and it will crack/craze and look like crap the first time a minute drop of gas gets on it.

Instead take that tank down to the local painter, and have them clear it with the next job they do.  Should be $50 or less, and it will be a 2K clear and much stronger/harder.

just my .02.

Bbrent

Quote from: TAftonomos on September 04, 2008, 07:47:50 AM
Don't bother rattle can clearing it.

Unless you are using UPOL or the stuff from RM, there is no hardener in it, and it will crack/craze and look like crap the first time a minute drop of gas gets on it.

Instead take that tank down to the local painter, and have them clear it with the next job they do.  Should be $50 or less, and it will be a 2K clear and much stronger/harder.

just my .02.

Good idea. What should I do about the coat I put on lastnight? Should I just sand the areas that look bad and have them reclear the whole thing?