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garage door opener mod

Started by erkishhorde, December 08, 2008, 07:49:58 PM

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mmakay

OK, I figured that was it, but wanted to hear it from those who've done the mod.  Thanks.
- Mickey

Dietrich

Quote from: Gimpy on December 21, 2008, 11:33:06 PM
shamelessly stolen from TOB

No prob Gimpy, saved me some work...(that was my little diagram from TOB...that's how I have mine hooked up....).  [thumbsup]

erkishhorde

Quote from: mmakay on December 22, 2008, 10:27:02 PM
OK, I figured that was it, but wanted to hear it from those who've done the mod.  Thanks.

Wait, is that going from my post? I meant to ask that as a question.
ErkZ NOT in SLO w/ his '95 m900!
The end is in sight! Gotta buckle down and get to work!

Gimpy

Quote from: erkishhorde on December 22, 2008, 09:44:22 PM
So basically wire the remote in somewhere between the switch and the high beam and wire the diode in after the remote?
Well more along the lines of. After bypassing the button on the garage door opener.  Wire the ground of the garage door opener to ground, and then the 12v +  to the the passing switch.  Then wire in a diode inline between the flasher switch and the Hi/Lo switch. 

zenjim

I was thinking of the same thing, but I was wondering...
My ex-wife's car had a remote control built in that you could program to open any garage door/ gate by pointing the remote at it while pressing a button. It allowed you to program/ open 3 doors with different frequency openers. Is there a smaller version of this not attached to a minivan? I'm thinking of programming it to open my Mom's gate, my garage door, and Selma Hyak's gate - once the restraining order is lifted.
This project could not only be twice the fun, but make me feel better about the 13 years it took me to pay back those student loans for the EE degree I never got.
What you possess in the world will be found at the day of your death to belong to someone else. But what you are will be yours forever.

2005 S2R 800. Tail Chop, Boom Tube Exhaust, PCIII, Race Tech Spring, Ohlins rear shock, Adjustable ST2 forks with S2R 1K springs, Lane Splitter Mirrors,  Speedy Moto Frame Sliders, CF Bits here and there...

Charlief


mmakay

Quote from: Charlief on December 26, 2008, 12:49:05 PM
Homelink for motorcycles

Wow, expensive AND ugly ... now that's a tough combo to beat!   [evil]
- Mickey

zenjim

What you possess in the world will be found at the day of your death to belong to someone else. But what you are will be yours forever.

2005 S2R 800. Tail Chop, Boom Tube Exhaust, PCIII, Race Tech Spring, Ohlins rear shock, Adjustable ST2 forks with S2R 1K springs, Lane Splitter Mirrors,  Speedy Moto Frame Sliders, CF Bits here and there...

zenjim

Quote from: mmakay on December 26, 2008, 01:47:31 PM
Wow, expensive AND ugly ... now that's a tough combo to beat!   [evil]

Because there's sexy ones out there?
What you possess in the world will be found at the day of your death to belong to someone else. But what you are will be yours forever.

2005 S2R 800. Tail Chop, Boom Tube Exhaust, PCIII, Race Tech Spring, Ohlins rear shock, Adjustable ST2 forks with S2R 1K springs, Lane Splitter Mirrors,  Speedy Moto Frame Sliders, CF Bits here and there...

erkishhorde

Finally got around to tinkering. I split the cost of a new receiver for my dad's garage door so that I can break his old remote that was falling apart anyway. Started by clipping off the 9V battery connector and soldering on some wires to extend it.

Then I tried just soldering the switch together but that didn't work so I pulled the switch off an and soldered on a wire to close the switch. (wire on the top)

For some reason the thing still didn't work so I got I tried pulling the burnt out light bulb and soldering a wire in. (U shaped wire right by the hole in the middle) Oddly enough, that worked. The remote worked perfectly fine before I started tinkering with it even w/ the burnt out light bulb but whatever.

I tested it and it still works.  ;D

I want to try doing the diode bit so I'm trying to figure out what kinda diode I need. Also trying to figure out the wiring. From the wiring diagram that was posted, it looks like the diode goes between the high beam switch and flasher switch. These are both in the controls and handlebar and I imagine it would be a tight fit to add anything into there but I haven't had the time to look yet.

Also on the list is making a new box for this thing. I'm thinking of taking some plexi glass I have laying around and bending that into a box. I also need to decide where I'm gonna put this thing because I'm not running a stock headlight anymore and I'm not sure I have enough space in there for the unit (it's about 3x3 right now).
ErkZ NOT in SLO w/ his '95 m900!
The end is in sight! Gotta buckle down and get to work!

Gimpy

You're exactly right on the placement on the diode.  It's a tight fit but you can get it to work.  I used some soldering paste to hold the diode in place (and the correct orientation) and then I heated it up to melt the paste.  As far as hiding the unit itself, I have mine Velcro'd near the battery.  it has a limited range underneath the tank but it is enough. 

DucatiTorrey

so i really want to do this mod, but i couldn't help but notice this remote (foudn here for $10!) is a 9V battery not 12V
http://aspdoors.com/MultiCode-3089-Remote-Garage-Door-Transmitter/M/B000JILOK8.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle

will this work???? resistors maybe? thanks guys
  - real place

erkishhorde

Quote from: ducatitorrey on May 10, 2009, 06:49:33 PM
so i really want to do this mod, but i couldn't help but notice this remote (foudn here for $10!) is a 9V battery not 12V
http://aspdoors.com/MultiCode-3089-Remote-Garage-Door-Transmitter/M/B000JILOK8.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle

will this work???? resistors maybe? thanks guys

I don't think anyone is using a remote that actually uses a 12V battery. Come to think of it, I've never seen a garage door opener that uses a 12v batter. They're all either 9v or Li nowadays. It should work fine.
ErkZ NOT in SLO w/ his '95 m900!
The end is in sight! Gotta buckle down and get to work!

Ivan

Quote from: erkishhorde on May 10, 2009, 09:04:04 PM
I don't think anyone is using a remote that actually uses a 12V battery. Come to think of it, I've never seen a garage door opener that uses a 12v batter. They're all either 9v or Li nowadays. It should work fine.

You are mistaken.  The Genie keyfob size remote takes a 12V battery.  The battery is an Energizer, type A23 , 12V alkaline cell. 

If you connect 12V to a remote that is designed for less than 12V, there is a very high probability that you will no longer have a functional remote. 
Sold: 2007 S2R1000 for canyon carving and commuting - DP ECU, PCIII, BMC air filter with open box, Zard full exhaust, Race-tech fork internals, Ohlins steering damper, and a Penske 8987 triple clicker

2000 996XU (extra ugly) for track days - BST carbon wheels, Ohlins shock, reworked fork, FBF exhaust, and a bunch of megacycle rocker arms. The rest of it is junk - Hey, I'm just happy that it runs...

Sold: 2002 Aprilia RST1000 for touring - De-restricted airbox, Taylormade Racing exhaust

Ivan

#44
Quote from: ducatitorrey on May 10, 2009, 06:49:33 PM
so i really want to do this mod, but i couldn't help but notice this remote (foudn here for $10!) is a 9V battery not 12V
http://aspdoors.com/MultiCode-3089-Remote-Garage-Door-Transmitter/M/B000JILOK8.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle

will this work???? resistors maybe? thanks guys

Since the remote should take very little current, you can probably use two resistors to make a voltage divider.

              R1          R2
12V -----xxxxx--|--xxxxx -----GND
                       |
                       |
                      V2

V2 = (R2/(R1+R2)) * 12V


Keep in mind that the resistors will be dissipating power (wattage), so make sure that you size them appropriately, and account for the heat that they might generate.  Small resistance values will dissipate more power, but allow the voltage V2 to be more consistent given that the current drawn by the remote will be a variable. 

I think that you'd be better off just buying a remote that is designed for 12V.




Sold: 2007 S2R1000 for canyon carving and commuting - DP ECU, PCIII, BMC air filter with open box, Zard full exhaust, Race-tech fork internals, Ohlins steering damper, and a Penske 8987 triple clicker

2000 996XU (extra ugly) for track days - BST carbon wheels, Ohlins shock, reworked fork, FBF exhaust, and a bunch of megacycle rocker arms. The rest of it is junk - Hey, I'm just happy that it runs...

Sold: 2002 Aprilia RST1000 for touring - De-restricted airbox, Taylormade Racing exhaust