to slipper or not to slipper?

[showerfan]

are they both equally good? i know the guy who runs ECS used to work at rockwell's

[junior varsity]

i did showa's from 916 on one monster, from a 998 on another monster, and another 916 on the third monster (project monster)...  The ohlins valving makes a difference - the one without it is noticeably not as good as the one with it, regardless of level of fiddling with the adjustments.

[showerfan]

by the way -- i'm really starting to LOVE engine braking. have even squeaked the back wheel a few times, but it's more fun than petrifying only a little, mind you

[showerfan]

also @jv, ordering the race-tech gold like fork seals and springs for my stock showa adjustable fronts, and a new penske shock for the back. talked to steve at ECS and he's going to dial it in for me.

[junior varsity]

get springs for your weight if you need 'em - makes a big difference.   You can get your penske rear shock with a torrington bearing at the preload collars if you are using a heavier spring - makes it gobs easier to adjust.  Kind of a "must" if you are going to have it sprung for 2-up riding and need to crank on/off the preload occasionally.

[Bill in OKC]

My experience with a slipper clutch is that you will learn a lot about how they work before you get it dialed in.  The factory clutch has compensation springs built into the basket and you will lose that.  It made the slipper feel grabbier so that was compensated for by adding a second bevel spring plate.  Then the stack height - too short and it slips going forward, too tall and just a bit of drag will cause clunky shifting finding neutral and dropping it into first.  A mix of new and used friction plates got used to get the stack right.  A lot of mucking around but I like the finished install.

[junior varsity]

My experience with a slipper clutch is that you will learn a lot about how they work before you get it dialed in.  The factory clutch has compensation springs built into the basket and you will lose that.  It made the slipper feel grabbier so that was compensated for by adding a second bevel spring plate.  Then the stack height - too short and it slips going forward, too tall and just a bit of drag will cause clunky shifting finding neutral and dropping it into first.  A mix of new and used friction plates got used to get the stack right.  A lot of mucking around but I like the finished install.

i agree about getting stack height correct - its a big part of getting a slipper setup right.