Last peice of the puzzle!!

[Roaduser]

i fitted a g2 throttle tamer and electraeon fast throttle cam the other day. theory is the tamer will ease the 'just on throttle' jerk that can catch you mid way through a long corner by changing the cam profile of the throttle tube. this is said to make it a much smoother ride and easier to smoothly ease on the throttle out of corners. issue here is it also makes the wot feel further away as where the butterflies once were at 1/2 throttle twist, it now takes say 3/4 throttle twist to achieve. this is why ive added the fast throttle cam on the throttle body end to bring the wot from approx 90deg throttle rotation back to about 75deg rotation.

on other bikes this could have been achieved with just a throttle tube cam change but the monster housing is not big enough to allow a large enough cam on the throttle tube. so i splashed out and got both. cant say what it has done to the riding experience yet as im still without license (as if that would stop me test riding anyway  ) and the bike is still in parts. you can also see in the pics that to fit the 999 brake master i had to rotate the throttle setup so that the cable exits at the top. clashed with the banjo in its native position, and i think it looks alright out the top anyway.

at rest


wot without fast throttle


wot with fast throttle


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one side effect was that to take the lash out of the std throttle cable i had to screw the adjuster as far out as id like to go. but it seems fine there. you can see this in the bellow pic

while fitting up the 999 clutch master cylinder the other day i discovered i can no longer accommodate the choke/fast throttle control on the left switch block. ive removed the cable and lever and am looking at fitting a short cable with a simple round pull lever somewhere under the side of the tank. probably in an semi-unseen place that i can still reach at the first set of lights. while doing this i noticed that the choke/fast throttle wasn't actually doing anything in the first half of its range of motion. in the pic below i have manually rotated the choke lever to the point where it starts to effect the throttle cam. you can see just up from my finger that the opening in the choke lever that allows the range of rotation is actually more than half way to the end stop.

can someone look on their bike for me and see if this is the same? reason i ask is so i can properly work out how much pull movement ill need on my new fast throttle setup. i also have to double check that there isnt some kind of sensor that was picking up this first half of seemingly needless movement and triggering a change in the ecu fuel map. i didnt think of that till writing up this post but if anyone knows better about that id love to hear about it 



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[Roaduser]

well, i was torquing up my new triple clamps the other day. i looked at the Ducati manual and it states something like 24Nm. i set my torque wrench to 20 to be on the safe side as it is a cheaper wrench. i didnt get near the click before i didnt like the way it was feeling. anyone thats stripped a thread will know that soft feeling a bolt can get just before it happens. so i stopped, re checked the manual and sure enough it is what i read the first time.

my brother came home and saw what i was doing and he agreed what i had read and that these triples should handle factory specs. he grabbed the wrench and decided to feel it and proceeded to torque it further. i voiced i wasnt feeling good about that and he undone the bolt in question and sure enough out comes some flak. but it was quite a large piece of flac, larger than i would expect from stripping a bolt of that size. probably an m8/m10 bolt from memory.

i did notice bits of flak around the clamp opening too. heres to hoping it was left over flak from when they triples were bored to a larger diameter!!

i asked IMA about what torque settings they recommend and they replied 7Nm bottom and 5Nm top!! these numbers seem very low. i told them i have gone further and the reply was "I don't believe you could have any damage on threads, but it would be the forks doesn't works well....Threads and screws are able to bear greater efforts."

what are your thoughts, can 24Nm really do damage to forks? bear in mind i haven't ridden the bike yet.
would 18-20Nm on a m10 bolt strip a billet alloy triple? i will get the torch out and have a look but i doubt i can see much as its quite inset. ill also play with the bolt a little and see if there is any excessive play in it now..

hmmm.. sucky

[FIFO]

Flack never heard that term used
In all my years usually refered swarf /cuttings/shavings or shit

Never really use a tension wrench, unless torquing cylinder heads.
I just tighten up the triple with the Allen key as tight, buy hand as you can get it.
to strip a good full formed 10mm thread in good alloy aluminium would take that bit extra with an extension tube on the key

[Roaduser]

yeah swarf is the word i would normally use but i couldnt think of it for the life of me, so flak made sense is the respect of metal pieces floating around a possibly damaged area. 

thanks for the peace of mind. im a little less frustrated at work now.