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Modest beginnings of my M750 project

Started by memper, March 07, 2013, 07:40:15 AM

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ducpainter

#135
March 26, 2013, 01:30:57 PM
Quote from: memper on March 26, 2013, 11:26:49 AM
Also, while we're on the topic, the run/kill switch is 15amps. The starter button is...30?
The circuit that feeds the starter button is whatever you run for a fuse in position #2. It operates the starter through the solenoid which is a relay fed directly off the battery. It's a different deal.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


Duck-Stew

#136
March 26, 2013, 02:47:40 PM Last Edit: March 26, 2013, 02:49:59 PM by Duck-Stew
Quote from: memper on March 26, 2013, 11:08:16 AM
All I can think of is that its a plug for the fuel light which connects to the sending unit in the tank. My current sender only has the two wires to power the pump. Meaning my pump and sender are from different models. No biggie I guess I can just fill it with gas resistant sealant or epoxy.


That square hole between the spade connectors?  I'd leave it alone.  I don't think it's anything 'wrong'.  

"My current sender only has the two wires to power the pump.  Meaning my pump and sender are from different models."  Yes.  The sender wires just go to the sender and they don't extend to the inside of the tank.  Only the wires which extend from the fuel sender are used to power the pump.
Bike-less Portuguese immigrant enjoying life.

memper

#137
March 26, 2013, 04:41:24 PM
Just found my red owners manual after 30 min of searching  [clap]. It is confirmed that slot #2 is 7.5 amps.
Thanks Stew for the clarification.

About my question regarding the starter and run/kill switches. I was inquiring because I have an idea to re route and "re-button/switch" the hand controls in order to clean up the look of the bars. The idea is to get a sealed push momentary switch for the starter and a mini rocker switch for the run/kill. Both will be moved to those gussets near the neck with the nickel sized hole in them. Obviously the new switches need to be of correct amperage which is 7.5, yes?
"Calling a bikini fairing on a monster a fairing is like calliing a girl in an actual bikini proper work attire....unless shes a stripper." -He Man

-----------------------------------------
Important: always check your battery filter and regularly change your headlight fluid.

ducpainter

#138
March 26, 2013, 04:56:55 PM
Quote from: memper on March 26, 2013, 04:41:24 PM
Just found my red owners manual after 30 min of searching  [clap]. It is confirmed that slot #2 is 7.5 amps.
Thanks Stew for the clarification.

About my question regarding the starter and run/kill switches. I was inquiring because I have an idea to re route and "re-button/switch" the hand controls in order to clean up the look of the bars. The idea is to get a sealed push momentary switch for the starter and a mini rocker switch for the run/kill. Both will be moved to those gussets near the neck with the nickel sized hole in them. Obviously the new switches need to be of correct amperage which is 7.5, yes?
If you can find a 12V 7.5 amp rated switch that will fit where you want to put it...

I'll buy it for you. ;D

To answer the question...they need to be rated for at least 7.5 amps, You'll most likely source switches rated for much more than that.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


memper

#139
March 26, 2013, 05:39:08 PM Last Edit: March 26, 2013, 07:00:19 PM by memper
Quote from: ducpainter on March 26, 2013, 04:56:55 PM
If you can find a 12V 7.5 amp rated switch that will fit where you want to put it...

I'll buy it for you. ;D

To answer the question...they need to be rated for at least 7.5 amps, You'll most likely source switches rated for much more than that.
That's what I've seen so far...
*edit: there are none and I even looked on serious electronics sites. No 7.5 12v switches.
But I must ask, what's the danger in running say a 10amp 12v rocker (SPST) on a 7.5amp circuit? I can see the problem of using a lesser rated switch but I see no issue using a slightly greater one.
"Calling a bikini fairing on a monster a fairing is like calliing a girl in an actual bikini proper work attire....unless shes a stripper." -He Man

-----------------------------------------
Important: always check your battery filter and regularly change your headlight fluid.

MendoDave

#140
March 26, 2013, 09:28:46 PM
Quote from: memper on March 26, 2013, 05:39:08 PM
That's what I've seen so far...
*edit: there are none and I even looked on serious electronics sites. No 7.5 12v switches.
But I must ask, what's the danger in running say a 10amp 12v rocker (SPST) on a 7.5amp circuit? I can see the problem of using a lesser rated switch but I see no issue using a slightly greater one.

No danger as far as I know. The weak link should be the fuze.

ducpainter

#141
March 27, 2013, 03:22:18 AM
Most switches are rated for 120V

Use whatever you want                                         
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


MotoPsycho

#142
March 27, 2013, 03:56:35 AM
Just a thought. Shouldn't the switch/button be waterproof? Or does it not matter?
Edgar: '99 M750 - 2009 Indy Ducati Rat Bike Award Winner

ducpainter

#143
March 27, 2013, 04:04:11 AM
Quote from: GRUBBY on March 27, 2013, 03:56:35 AM
Just a thought. Shouldn't the switch/button be waterproof? Or does it not matter?
The OEM switches aren't.

It wouldn't be a bad thing, but would add to the cost.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


Speeddog

#144
March 27, 2013, 08:06:44 AM
Quote from: memper on March 26, 2013, 10:47:47 AM
All seems to be fine so far.
Q: what is the hole on the top of the pump? Its a little shaped hole between the terminals. It has a small metal piece inside and under that a spring.

I'd say it's a relief valve so the pump will still flow fuel if the outlet gets blocked.

So blocking it off wouldn't be a good idea.
- - - - - Valley Desmo Service - - - - -
Reseda, CA
(951) 640-8908

~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~

ducpainter

#145
March 27, 2013, 08:07:52 AM
Quote from: Speeddog on March 27, 2013, 08:06:44 AM
I'd say it's a relief valve so the pump will still flow fuel if the outlet gets blocked.

So blocking it off wouldn't be a good idea.
Talk about a good way to blow the fuse... :P
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


memper

#146
March 27, 2013, 08:51:13 AM
Really? There are +/- markings on either side...
"Calling a bikini fairing on a monster a fairing is like calliing a girl in an actual bikini proper work attire....unless shes a stripper." -He Man

-----------------------------------------
Important: always check your battery filter and regularly change your headlight fluid.

memper

#147
March 27, 2013, 01:26:27 PM
What do i do about the return line both externally and internally? As of now inside the metal tube just goes up and is open ended. Externally i tied it into the drain line with a Y connector.
"Calling a bikini fairing on a monster a fairing is like calliing a girl in an actual bikini proper work attire....unless shes a stripper." -He Man

-----------------------------------------
Important: always check your battery filter and regularly change your headlight fluid.

Speeddog

#148
March 27, 2013, 01:56:59 PM
Quote from: memper on March 27, 2013, 08:51:13 AM
Really? There are +/- markings on either side...

The +/- markings are for the electrical terminals.
- - - - - Valley Desmo Service - - - - -
Reseda, CA
(951) 640-8908

~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~

memper

#149
March 27, 2013, 02:37:37 PM
The terminals have them as well as the hole thingy. Anyways I figured the return pipe connects to the vent hole on the gas cap.
New issue: turned on the ignition, pump started whirring, I open the manual fuel tap and gas just started gushing out of the carb overflow lines. Any idea whats going on?
"Calling a bikini fairing on a monster a fairing is like calliing a girl in an actual bikini proper work attire....unless shes a stripper." -He Man

-----------------------------------------
Important: always check your battery filter and regularly change your headlight fluid.
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