Voltage regulator relocation

[uclabiker06]

I'm going to assume thats a good thing 

[suzyj]

All electrons take a new path in suzyj's setup!

BK

Yes, I like to show the electrons who's boss.

[uclabiker06]

I'm about to show the box that the regulator is mounted on who's boss; with this hacksaw I have here

[xsephirot]

Yes, I like to show the electrons who's boss.

suzy please please please make a kit of your electronic wiring! I love that everything is so clean and you have that electronic board thingy that acts in place of fuses 

[memper]

I mounted mine under the bottom triple tree with the fins facing downward. Didn't have to lengthen any wires though I did delete the connectors and straight soldered it.
For mounting I just made two L brackets which are bolted to the holes where the headlight U bracket connects.

[muskrat]

I'm about to show the box that the regulator is mounted on who's boss; with this hacksaw I have here

well we are waiting to battle pics....pronto!

[Privateer]

this only has one bolt, i later ran a piece of alum bar across and put a second bolt through it.

total cost about $4

[uclabiker06]

   Wonder if that setup works with the rain

[jerryz]

On my S4 i made up a 6mm thick aluminium plate to fit the mounting hole under the seat  and also acts as a good heatsink , the plate is slightly bigger than the regulator  and the regulator is also mounted upside down for more air flow ,

it runs much cooler than before .

[BK_856er]

So I printed out the Shindengen dimensions and I'm scratching my head trying to figure out if I can make it work in the stock location.  Bolt pattern is different, but that's easily solved.  Space looks iffy.  Is the Hot Shot a drop in?

BK

I had some communications with Ricks Motorsport Electrics on this topic, so I will answer my own question.  Their "Hot Shot" is a cooler running mosfet type R/R and it has overall dimensions and bolt pattern to fit the stock location on my monster.  Wire length and connector ends hook right up, although if I were going to the trouble I'd convert to sealed Metric-Pack connections.  14.8V output setpoint.  Not sure it's "better" than the Shindegen, but it would seem to drop right in for similar $$.

BK

[tuxicle]

I mounted my Shindengen to the same spot where the old one was (using just one bolt). The connectors interfered with the tool box under the seat. A few minutes with a dremel, and it fit just fine. The MOSFET units can be left under the seat, since they don't heat up, even after extended rides. I butt-spliced some 14 AWG teflon insulated wire from the alternator to the Furukawa connector, and wrapped the bundle in some polyester expandable tubing. This got rid of the white plastic spade connectors that are often a failure point.

[BK_856er]

That's what I was thinking - rotate the Shindengen 180 degrees and dremel the underseat toolbox for clearance.  You also have a 695, so our requirements should be very similar.  Cool.

BK