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Galfer wave rotors

Started by JDIRECTORJ, April 15, 2014, 01:48:18 PM

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JDIRECTORJ

Hello,

Soooo my oem rotors are warped and I need new ones. I'm eyeing the Glafer wave rotors. Anyone have any experience with them?

I've hear of issues of pulsating when braking but not sure if what one been finding is true.

I'm looking for something reasonably priced. I have my 15k service coming up and already spending enough.

Thanks in advance


JDIRECTORJ

Thanks for the reply. Those are nice but a little expensive. Any other suggestions?

Has anyone had any issues with the Galfer wave rotors?

koko64

The forum sponsors have other options available. Check out their websites.
2015 Scrambler 800

Greg

I've used the Galfers on my Kawi track bike and they always provided good stopping power with good feel, and no pulsing.
2012 M1100 Evo with Termis

smalltorque

I've had a Galfer wave on the rear of my 795 for about 10 months now & can't fault it. My front OEM rotors were pulsating & I recently replaced them with Galfer waves as well. Have now done about 700 or 800 klms with the front rotors & am pretty happy with them so far. No pulsating, but it's only early days, great stopping power which I expect to improve as they wear in over time & usage, & they look better too of course.  [bacon]

If you're still considering buying them I'd say go for it.
B206L - 3rd funnest
M795 - 2nd funnest
MD500E - most funnest

Rudemouthsky

Quote from: JDIRECTORJ on April 15, 2014, 01:48:18 PM
Hello,

Soooo my oem rotors are warped and I need new ones. I'm eyeing the Glafer wave rotors. Anyone have any experience with them?

I've hear of issues of pulsating when braking but not sure if what one been finding is true.

I'm looking for something reasonably priced. I have my 15k service coming up and already spending enough.

Thanks in advance

For the cost of the Galfers I would personally choose the BT Axis STEEL rotors. Chris @ Ca-Cycleworks has the best price. The Direct Link design makes a lot of sense in theory and I really like that the carriers are billet aluminum. They are about $100 cheaper than the Iron and you won't have issues with rust.
"while there is a lower class, I am in it, and while there is a criminal element, I am of it, and while there is a soul in prison, I am not free." -Debs

oldndumb

Have you measured the runout to verify that they are truly warped? Many warped rotors have been replaced when they were actually running true.

Howie

Quote from: oldndumb on May 12, 2014, 06:44:16 AM
Have you measured the runout to verify that they are truly warped? Many warped rotors have been replaced when they were actually running true.

Absolutely.  Most likely cause is either stuck buttons or uneven brake pad material transfer.  Mike the rotors up.  If under minimum thickness replace.  If still thick enough clean the buttons.  Dirty buttons will give you run out since the blade cannot center.  Also clean the blade with brake cleaner and a ScotchBrite pad.

LA

Quote from: hbliam on April 15, 2014, 01:58:19 PM
I prefer these:

http://ca-cycleworks.com/products/brakes/brake-rotors/btd-10
I've got 40K miles on a set of those with carbon ceramic pads and it's worth the money. They do need to be kept in a garage however, as they rust quickly.
"I'm leaving this one totally stock" - Full Termi kit, Ohlins damper, Pazzo levers, lane splitters, 520 quick change 14/43 gears, DP gold press plate w/open cover, Ductile iron rotors w/cp211 pads.

R90S (hot rod), 80-900SS, Norton 850 MkIII, S4RS