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M944SS build

Started by Rudemouthsky, May 15, 2014, 07:15:25 AM

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showerfan

Give me a shout if you know any good motorcycle detailers in the Westchester area.

Graymonster

Quote from: Buck Naked on September 03, 2014, 10:23:46 AM



Were did you buy these filters?

Wiktor

Cant wait to see this bike finished  [thumbsup]

Rudemouthsky

Quote from: Graymonster on September 04, 2014, 11:02:09 PM

Were did you buy these filters?

Wiktor

Cant wait to see this bike finished  [thumbsup]

I ordered them from advanceautoparts.com., they are RX4040-1. Same I.D as the RU1750's but with added filter area on top and bigger overall. They have the best price by far if you use coupon code TRT41 it's 40$ off $100.
"while there is a lower class, I am in it, and while there is a criminal element, I am of it, and while there is a soul in prison, I am not free." -Debs

Rudemouthsky

Long story short, I didn't have to pay for these, I had an extremely minor/almost non issue with my original set that I contacted Chris about and to my shock he replaced them with one of his V2 sets. I insisted on paying and he and Candice refused my money. That dude should never have to pay for a  [drink], ever.  [bow_down]



I also did the RIT dye treatment to my mudguard clips, was pretty impressed with how well it worked it looks OE. Treated that little front fairing/cover whatevertheFkitscalled thingy that mounts behind the rectifier as well.



"while there is a lower class, I am in it, and while there is a criminal element, I am of it, and while there is a soul in prison, I am not free." -Debs

monsta

good story...  [thumbsup]

as a side note, I ordered them filters! :)  cant have you having all the fun!!  ;D
93 M900 - 07 ST3 - 00 748s trackbike - 78 900SS - 13 848 EVO Corse SE

Graymonster


Jumptship

Quote from: Buck Naked on August 24, 2014, 05:18:49 PM
Got impatient and put the front end together...

<snip>

Experienced some drama...my speedometer drive is not a suitable spacer for this wheel, but the provided one from Carrozzeria worked. On one hand I'm annoyed but on the other, I guess it's time to ditch the idea of an OE dash (more money wasted  [bang] ) and get the Trailtech Voyager I decided I REALLY want. :D





GPS...speedometer...tachometer...and way more. The perfect James Bond dash.

http://www.trailtech.net/digital-gauges/voyager-moto-gps



Sooooo....what are you gonna do with your original gauges?  I happen to be needing a new bezel to replace mine with a cracked speedo glass  ;) ;) ;)
This has been a test of the Emergency Broadcast System.

Rudemouthsky

Quote from: Jumptship on September 07, 2014, 02:48:03 AM
Sooooo....what are you gonna do with your original gauges?  I happen to be needing a new bezel to replace mine with a cracked speedo glass  ;) ;) ;)

Hiya Jumpt

I've already sold my nos guages, however I do have a NOS tachometer and housing, it's from a 2001 S4 but the housing, bezel, and glass should work for any Duc that has that type of dash.
"while there is a lower class, I am in it, and while there is a criminal element, I am of it, and while there is a soul in prison, I am not free." -Debs

Rudemouthsky

Quote from: monsta on September 06, 2014, 05:39:54 AM
I ordered them filters! :)  cant have you having all the fun!!  ;D

Cool, you'll probably experience them well before I do, so be sure to report the ass dyno results!

Swiss cheesed the bracket a little more...was too chicken to go much further but it's still better! My OCD is telling me to have this powder coated instead of my spray job, I think I have issues...



Also ordered Ti fork pinch bolts and aluminum caliper mount bolts on the advice of Pro-Bolt. Those guys have a ton of very pretty aluminum alloy nuts and bolts. A good alternative to costly Ti for light duty fasteners. I am usually loathe to buy bolt kits but I am very tempted by one of their full engine kits for only $100 bones....

"while there is a lower class, I am in it, and while there is a criminal element, I am of it, and while there is a soul in prison, I am not free." -Debs

oldndumb

You might want to take a look at the Pro-Bolt page listing the characteristics of the materials they use and compare the shear modulus specifications of their aluminum compared to SS and/or Ti and decide if the difference is acceptable to you.

Rudemouthsky

#205
Quote from: oldndumb on September 07, 2014, 07:54:01 AM
You might want to take a look at the Pro-Bolt page listing the characteristics of the materials they use and compare the shear modulus specifications of their aluminum compared to SS and/or Ti and decide if the difference is acceptable to you.

I will typically only replace bolts that rely on clamping strength as opposed to shear, and that's most of them. Some obvious exceptions are the upper shock pivot, and even that one is probably relegated to mostly clamping duty with the actual shock and pivot/hoop bearing the actual load.

Even the rotor bolts I'd feel safe running stainless (and I do). I can't even imagine putting enough stress to shear off a single one of those, who is even still controlling their bike at that point? Not to mention how often do you hear about something critical failing because of a sheared bolt aside from the head and engine mount bolts...
"while there is a lower class, I am in it, and while there is a criminal element, I am of it, and while there is a soul in prison, I am not free." -Debs

oldndumb

#206
Not meaning the SS ones. I had in mind the Al caliper mount application you mentioned. Shear loads are primary in that instance.

I also use SS bolts but have been switching to Ti incrementally as I work on the bike.

Although I am biased against Al bolts in just about every application for several reasons, I will shut up about them now.  ;D

Just for giggles I Googled https://duckduckgo.com/?q=motorcycle+sheared+bolt to see what would come up. Probably a lot of over-torqued instances done by hammer and tong mechanics with gorilla grips, but there might be a few of interest in there.

Edit: Okay, I read a few of them and see that there is vast misunderstanding of bolt failures and that a large percentage of failures due to torsional overloads are mischaracterized a sheared bolts. Which brings up the old argument to use the correct torque procedures. Still was interesting reading.

Rudemouthsky

The caliper mounts are an instance where that proprietory Brembo 10x1.0 is really a pain in the ass. My options were the crappy plated ones or Ti. Stupid.
"while there is a lower class, I am in it, and while there is a criminal element, I am of it, and while there is a soul in prison, I am not free." -Debs

koko64

#208
Alloy caliper mount bolts?  Did I read that right? I'm using my phone.
Go Ti or oem. Oem cost very little I found, but the plating does appear thin. I noticed they went from a gold to silver zinc. Dont know if it will last better or worse.
2015 Scrambler 800

Rudemouthsky

I was mistaken, what I purchased was stainless M10X1.25X25...Pro-Bolt doesn't even sell an M10 aluminum socket cap screw. But looking at the tensile strength out of curiosity, even of the aluminum alo bolts, it's difficult to imagine exerting enough braking force even to shear those off? if a tensile strength of 570 mpa means 730psi before the bolt would deform, and the shear strength is 330MPa (47.9 x 10.3psi) then over 480 pounds of pressure would have to be applied directly at the point where it would ultimately break (shear) in half? Am I reading this correctly? If so, 2 calipers sharing braking duties with whatever load ultimately ends up transferring to each one of 4 screws...not that I'd take any chances, but it seems pretty unlikely that a screw would shear in half, no?
"while there is a lower class, I am in it, and while there is a criminal element, I am of it, and while there is a soul in prison, I am not free." -Debs