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S2r 1k forks on s2r 800 advice

Started by cbcanada, October 25, 2014, 09:49:01 PM

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cbcanada

Thinking of putting s2r 1k front end on my 800.. Hoping to stop the front end nose dive under braking.. So I got some questions

1. Is it worth it? Improved braking? Less of a nose dive?

2. Along with forks I need to change rotors, calipers, brake master cylinder, and triple clamp,, correct? Anything else?

Dirty Duc

I believe you can keep all your same brake setup.

I put ST2 forks on mine, and changed nothing else.

My forks came with linear rate springs, so apparently somebody had already been in them.  I changed the oil and called it a day.  The springs are really the key to any front suspension upgrade.  Apparently the Showa front isn't really adjustable until you do some work (thread in "Tutorials").

Speeddog

Get a 25mm front axle from just about any of adjustable-fork bikes, it'll have the holes you need to access the compression adjusters.

Get a set of adjustable forks from S2R1000 or other model.

Respring with linear spring to suit your weight, replace the oil.

Install forks and axle on your bike.

Measure from bottom of lower triple to your front axle on your existing forks, with them fully extended, and install the new forks to the same measurement.
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Reseda, CA

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~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~

cbcanada

Is there any advantage of 748 forks I've s2r1k ?

Also this fork swap will it raise or lower the front end?

I like let my bike ergonomics as is.  I just want to get ride of the nose brake dive.. And improve braking some

Dirty Duc

Speeddog's advice will leave the front ride height the same.

I forgot about the axle holes, I drilled my axle.

stopintime

Linear springs will ride higher than progressive and that goes for the front as well as the rear.
I think it's a good idea to change the shock spring as well - to make the bike behave well. Mixing linear front with progressive rear isn't the ideal way to improve the ride.

If you don't want to do both (, but you should), you could raise the rear a 'little' to keep your current geometry. Measure, measure and measure.

It will be night and day when it comes to controlling the braking (and turning).

I enjoy my upgraded brakes, but the S2R800 brakes do stop the bike. Mods are often most enjoyed and understood if one is done and evaluated before doing the next. Suggestion: suspension first and then decide if you 'must' have better brakes.

[thumbsup]
252,000 km/seventeen years - loving it

MonsterHPD

Well, ignoring fo the moment that a fast rider on a stock suspended "50 / 54 mm"-forked Ducati will leave me for dead, all the 50/54 mm adjustable forks will only work as truly adjsutables if you modify them.

As they come, they will be OK up to a point, but the potential for improvement is enormous, especially concerning comfort and brake dive.
It might seem a waste of money and effort to modify something you´re reasonably happy with as it is, but I have yet to have someone I modified the forks for come back and complain. A non-visible mod you can actually feel!
Monster 900-2002 (sold, alive and well in the UK), 749R / 1100 HYM combo for track days, wifes / my Monster Dark 800-2003 (not entirely "Dark" anymore and a personal favourite) , 50% of 900SSie -2000 track bike for rainy days-now with tuned ST2 motor and Microtec ECU. Also parked due to having been T-boned on track.

cbcanada

Well how about I just change the springs on my front forks so they are stiffer. This will prevent the nose dive during breaking and is probably my easiest and most economic option right?

stopintime

Quote from: cbcanada on October 26, 2014, 03:09:48 PM
Well how about I just change the springs on my front forks so they are stiffer. This will prevent the nose dive during breaking and is probably my easiest and most economic option right?

I'd say yes.

Replacing the oil is done while having the fork apart anyway - just the fact that it's new helps, but you might try a 'heavier' oil to gain a little more damping. The S2R800 fork has VERY little rebound damping and you'll need more to compensate for the added rebound of linear springs. Hopefully, this isn't to technical for you... it could be as easy as ordering the next grade of fork oil viscosity, really.

It hurts a little to advice riders to do simple mods when I know how much better the bike will be if you spend more, but in this case it's sensible to do what you suggest/ask, then evaluate and make up your own mind later. The knowledge gained will be 'yours' and you'll be better equipped to decide the next steps - if any. The linear springs won't be a waste of money since they are the base of better suspension anyway.
252,000 km/seventeen years - loving it

cbcanada

Quote from: stopintime on October 26, 2014, 03:49:06 PM
I'd say yes.

Replacing the oil is done while having the fork apart anyway - just the fact that it's new helps, but you might try a 'heavier' oil to gain a little more damping. The S2R800 fork has VERY little rebound damping and you'll need more to compensate for the added rebound of linear springs. Hopefully, this isn't to technical for you... it could be as easy as ordering the next grade of fork oil viscosity, really.

It hurts a little to advice riders to do simple mods when I know how much better the bike will be if you spend more, but in this case it's sensible to do what you suggest/ask, then evaluate and make up your own mind later. The knowledge gained will be 'yours' and you'll be better equipped to decide the next steps - if any. The linear springs won't be a waste of money since they are the base of better suspension anyway.

So what springs and oil would you all recommend I go with. I currently lost a ton of weight currently 163 pounds (down from 215)

Keep in mind my mail goal is to stop the forks from bottoming under breaking

brad black

oil height also has a big impact on the very bottom of the stroke.  my experience with these forks is that they get very hard at the end of the stroke.  so if they're bottoming out maybe the level is too low.  plus they have no compression damping for much of the stroke due to a hole in the side of the cartridge.  i'd weld it up and play with oil weight.  one leg is comp, the other rebound, so you might find some constructive investigation leads to not so bad results.  certainly respring them too, or cut the original springs down, or add 30mm or more of preload

i did some stuff here:

http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com.au/2013/12/marzocchi-43mm-fork-design-and-impact.html
http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com.au/2014/01/marzocchi-43mm-fork-design-and-impact.html
http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com.au/2014/05/marzocchi-43mm-fork-design-and-impact.html

link to extensive thread on fixing them here:

http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com.au/2014/07/more-on-craptacular-marocchi-43mm-forks.html

short answer, put gsxr cartridges in them and drill a hole in the bottom of the cartridge to bleed the comp damping circuit for real fork action.
Brad The Bike Boy

http://www.bikeboy.org

cbcanada

Quote from: brad black on October 26, 2014, 06:33:25 PM
oil height also has a big impact on the very bottom of the stroke.  my experience with these forks is that they get very hard at the end of the stroke.  so if they're bottoming out maybe the level is too low.  plus they have no compression damping for much of the stroke due to a hole in the side of the cartridge.  i'd weld it up and play with oil weight.  one leg is comp, the other rebound, so you might find some constructive investigation leads to not so bad results.  certainly respring them too, or cut the original springs down, or add 30mm or more of preload

i did some stuff here:

http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com.au/2013/12/marzocchi-43mm-fork-design-and-impact.html
http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com.au/2014/01/marzocchi-43mm-fork-design-and-impact.html
http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com.au/2014/05/marzocchi-43mm-fork-design-and-impact.html

link to extensive thread on fixing them here:

http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com.au/2014/07/more-on-craptacular-marocchi-43mm-forks.html

short answer, put gsxr cartridges in them and drill a hole in the bottom of the cartridge to bleed the comp damping circuit for real fork action.

But does the hole in cartridge not play a function? What is it there for and what will
I lose if I close it up?

cbcanada

Here is a question..
Which adjustable forks will go on my bike with the least amount of tinkering?

Speeddog

S4, S4R, but they'll be on the stiff and harsh side.

Followed by S2R1000, but will be a bit soft and divey.
- - - - - Valley Desmo Service - - - - -
Reseda, CA

(951) 640-8908


~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~

cbcanada

Quote from: Speeddog on October 27, 2014, 10:25:09 PM
S4, S4R, but they'll be on the stiff and harsh side.

Followed by S2R1000, but will be a bit soft and divey.

Ok so if I get s4 I would need to change springs to make more soft cause the stock Springer are for heavier bike?

Also can I use my stock rotors and calipers and mc..

Sorry for all questions but you guys helped me fix my broken fuel pump and with your help I intend to do this...