How exactly does this thing work?
On my Husky, my neutral light doesn't work. I figured it was a bulb, so I replaced it - still no worky.
Is there some kind of sender on the other end? Or how DOES the light get the signal? And, whatever the case may be, is it somewhat easy to replace?
Gnomes.
Gnomes and dwarves.
Middle earth lives in your instrument cluster.
And I am drunk. [beer]
Generally there is a plunger type switch that contacts the shift drum in some manner.
There should be a nuetral switch either on the gearbox or the shifter, dpending on the vehicle....
[thumbsup]
Ahh, perfect, I'll call Eric's tomorrow and see how much one of those bad boys costs. And how many months it'll take Husky to actually get it to me.
Usually it's a single wire that's plugged into the neutral 'switch'.
Best to pull that connector off, and jumper it to the frame to ground it.
If the light comes on, then it's definitely the switch.
If it doesn't come on, then there's a wiring issue.
Best to do the cheap and quick diagnosis first...
Quote from: Speeddog on October 16, 2008, 07:34:16 PM
Usually it's a single wire that's plugged into the neutral 'switch'.
Best to pull that connector off, and jumper it to the frame to ground it.
If the light comes on, then it's definitely the switch.
If it doesn't come on, then there's a wiring issue.
Best to do the cheap and quick diagnosis first...
Umm, this may sound retarded, but I write code for a living (and got a sweet new job today btw), so can you possibly expand on exactly how I jumper it?
Quote from: darylbowden on October 16, 2008, 08:08:23 PM
Umm, this may sound retarded, but I write code for a living (and got a sweet new job today btw), so can you possibly expand on exactly how I jumper it?
Just take a suitable piece of metal to go from the wire connector to ground....
a cotter pin or a jewelers type screwdriver should work.
If it happens to be a 2 wire connector, a small piece of wire...safety wire works...can be used to connect them together.
What dp said. ;D
...and congrats on the new job. [thumbsup]
Quote from: ducpainter on October 16, 2008, 08:13:43 PM
...and congrats on the new job. [thumbsup]
Thank you very much. I'm very excited to be working for HUGE (http://www.hugeinc.com) who is one of the very best there are in my industry. Hopefully this means I'll be able to get back on the track more often and finally take that CSS Level I class.
The neutral position sensor, is a spring loaded contact screwed into the rear of the crankcase and contacts the gear selector drum. The selector drum has a ring of non- conductive material around the contact path EXCEPT at the neutral postion. The sensor has a single 'hot' wire, when in the neutral position the circuit to ground is completed via the sensor contact and the selector drum.
Quote from: Capo on October 17, 2008, 02:30:01 AM
The neutral position sensor, is a spring loaded contact screwed into the rear of the crankcase and contacts the gear selector drum. The selector drum has a ring of non- conductive material around the contact path EXCEPT at the neutral postion. The sensor has a single 'hot' wire, when in the neutral position the circuit to ground is completed via the sensor contact and the selector drum.
That's one way of doing it...
Often a shift drum will just have a depression at the neutral location that the plunger drops in to.
Quote from: ducpainter on October 17, 2008, 05:29:01 AM
That's one way of doing it...
Often a shift drum will just have a depression at the neutral location that the plunger drops in to.
Indeed but Ducati uses the insulation method.
I fiited the corse billet selector that does not have the insulation band so now I have a permanent neutral light. (at least until I get into the instrument cluster)
Quote from: Capo on October 17, 2008, 09:34:50 AM
Indeed but Ducati uses the insulation method.
I fiited the corse billet selector that does not have the insulation band so now I have a permanent neutral light. (at least until I get into the instrument cluster)
UNfortunately, this is my Husky so it may be different. I hope to know the answer today though. I'll be jumpering away in a minute [thumbsup]
Quote from: darylbowden on October 17, 2008, 09:36:17 AM
UNfortunately, this is my Husky so it may be different. I hope to know the answer today though. I'll be jumpering away in a minute [thumbsup]
Ahh, I should have read the OP post more closely :-[ Sorry.
Quote from: Capo on October 17, 2008, 09:42:32 AM
Ahh, I should have read the OP post more closely :-[ Sorry.
I kind of figured you missed that. ;)
Also the earlier bikes don't use the non-conductive ring.
That is a fairly recent 'innovation'. [sarcasm applies]
Quote from: ducpainter on October 17, 2008, 09:56:30 AM
I kind of figured you missed that. ;)
Also the earlier bikes don't use the non-conductive ring.
That is a fairly recent 'innovation'. [sarcasm applies]
Thanks, I'm thinking about putting a dimple on the drum and using a spring plunger switch, if I used one from an earlier year, I probably wouldnt have to worry about the detent pressure affecting the change.
Quote from: Capo on October 17, 2008, 10:02:34 AM
Thanks, I'm thinking about putting a dimple on the drum and using a spring plunger switch, if I used one from an earlier year, I probably wouldnt have to worry about the detent pressure affecting the change.
Personally I don't think it would affect things enough to notice. Might make neutral more positive.
I'm not positive, but I don't believe they changed the actual workings of the shift mechanism.
If you have an S4R you should be able to use the drum from any 6 speed.
Any differences in thread size on the switch could be worked around by sourcing the correct switch.
The testastretta motor
may be different, but I would almost bet that you could do the same.
Quote from: ducpainter on October 17, 2008, 10:09:12 AM
Personally I don't think it would affect things enough to notice. Might make neutral more positive.
I'm not positive, but I don't believe they changed the actual workings of the shift mechanism.
If you have an S4R you should be able to use the drum from any 6 speed.
Any differences in thread size on the switch could be worked around by sourcing the correct switch.
The testastretta motor may be different, but I would almost bet that you could do the same.
Yeah but I paid $500 for the drum :'(
Quote from: Capo on October 17, 2008, 10:15:29 AM
Yeah but I paid $500 for the drum :'(
The one with the ring?
Quote from: ducpainter on October 17, 2008, 10:17:14 AM
The one with the ring?
No its billet aluminium, needed special selector forks as well as the slots for the rollers are wider.
Ouch....
so the $500 magnified to how much with all the incidentals?
Quote from: ducpainter on October 17, 2008, 10:26:06 AM
Ouch....
so the $500 magnified to how much with all the incidentals?
About $650
Quote from: Speeddog on October 17, 2008, 11:38:48 AM
+ splitting the cases, right? ;D
Yeah but there is a ton of other work going on as well, now that the racing season is over, I can get in the shop and put it all back together.
As an aside, how the bleep do you get the neutral switch out, and does oil piss out of the hole if you take it out?
Quote from: Howley on October 17, 2008, 09:31:02 PM
As an aside, how the bleep do you get the neutral switch out, and does oil piss out of the hole if you take it out?
Not having done it, I'd say using a deep socket with vise grips on it.
No significant amount of oil should come out, as it's well above the oil level.
I used a box end wrench I think.
Once loose it spins out by hand.