I know someone from ToB did this and wired garage door opener into their passing signal. Can that person post up on how they did it again please?
Here's the gadget I used:
http://www.autoswitch.com/2006/models/as5pg2/as5pg2_index.shtml (http://www.autoswitch.com/2006/models/as5pg2/as5pg2_index.shtml)
good place to get it: http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=ASG (http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=ASG)
You also will need a keychain size garage door remote appropriate for your opener.
This is how I did it following a post by Charlief on TOB. I don't have any of the diagrams, though it's not too complicated.
The first step was having a remote control that operates on 12V, they can vary. Take the remote apart so you just have the circuit board. Since you're using the passing signal as the switch, you need to solder a wire between the two terminals of the button on the remote.
Next, take the battery out and solder a wire to each terminal of the battery slot. These wires will go to the +/- of your high beams (watch the length to make sure you have enough wire). In effect, this will be the same as holding the remote button down and inserting/removing the battery. Make sure for your remote, this still operates the door as expected.
You might be able to trim away some excess circuit board here to make it compact as possible. My remote was pretty small and I wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape so just the wires were coming out.
As mentioned, I installed mine on the +/- of the high beams which means if you're riding with the high beams on, the remote is getting a constant 12V. I don't ride with them on too often, but the times that I did never seemed to cause an issue.
Mine is "installed" in the headlight bucket, behind the reflective cone part. I unplugged the headlight, wrapped the wires from my remote onto the appropriate terminals, and plugged the headlight back in. I put the headlight assembly back together with the remote just sitting inside. After using it for a month or so, I opened it back up just to make sure there was no issues from the heat and everything was fine.
--MaxPower
PM Dietrich (hangs out in AZDRA)...
I'm very glad this was posted. I'm getting ready to install a garage door opener so it will be a big help in the spring.
One place I bought my spare remotes from was:
http://www.onlinedoorremotes.com/ (http://www.onlinedoorremotes.com/)
Fair pricing.
I went with momentary micro switches on the S2R, and the larger momentary switches on my ST3.
Rigged in two remotes, one for home, one for security gate. Both bikes I stashed the remotes in the side panels. Opened each remote up and soldered wires that make up the switch contacts. Switches on the S2R are mounted on a piece of 3/4 inch aluminum that straddles the handle bar mounts on the top triple.
Any tips on how to decide which opener to get? I know the gate to my apt complex uses the old style remotes with about 8 switches inside but my garage door uses a chaimberlain 2 button remote that I can't figure out how to program. I'm thinking there must be some kind of signalling button on the main unit in the garage to program a new remote off of.
This is where you have to know what type of gate or garage door opener is being used.
And even then, you have to be aware of older gates/openers as manufacturers can have older dip switch remotes and newer multi code ones. Best sure fire way is to get a model number / manufacturer from an existing remote, then find it on the site I listed. They tended to have most any remote in both large and pendant sized. The pendant ones are just as easy to work with if you plan on soldering leads to "extend" the switch to a button on the bike. Many gated communities use the multicode remote, but like I said, it's better to have the right info so you don't waste fifteen bucks on something that wont work.
Luckily the site also has picture that show the remotes well enough that you may be able to do a visual match.
If I re-do my remotes, I would like to add an LED lighted switch and fork out for a good rubber insulated momentary switch. I had no problems with the larger one that radio shack sells, but the smaller one has such a short travel when pressing, I tend to get a double touch which starts and stops my garage door opener.
This is the large one I used on my ST3, got one red one black.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062496 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062496)
This is the small one I used on my S2R
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062508 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062508)
Another good supply are sites that sell marine supplies.
Seems like for your mod you're still using the battery that came w/ the remote and pretty much just extended the button up the control area?
A more expensive solution, but a few weeks ago I put a MotoFX garage door opener into my S2R. I chose to wire it to the turn signals instead of the headlight since I could just tap into the cable bundle under the seat.
Cost me about $100 but it was pretty easy to install and works good. I have a pretty old garage door opener so I didn't need the universal receiver (they'll try to sell you one by default.)
if this fits what you're looking for ... it is all rather easy to install.
I started with a programmable Genie Key Fob remote from Home Depot. Cost was $20 and this one had 3 buttons although only one would be used for this application.
The pics below were taken years ago and I hop they help somewhat.
Step A. Program romte button to your garage door. Note which button you program.
Step B. Take remote apart and remove battery.
Step C. Grab beer
Step D. Grab a soldering iron and remove programmed button. Red zip tie points to where button was....
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff27/charlieff/GarageDIY001.jpg)
Step E. Flip remote over and solder a piece of wire across the mounting points of removed switch. Again... fency red zip tie points to where the action is......
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff27/charlieff/GarageDIY002.jpg)
Step F. Grab some wire and solder it to the battery tabs. One on each side. Take note that pos or neg will be moted on the board. I'd say 6" inches should be enough. (Please... no penis jokes) Ok ok...go ahead.
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff27/charlieff/GarageDIY003.jpg)
Step G. Now strip the ends about an inch.
Now you must decide where you want to mount this wonderful piece of craftsmanship. I chose to use my hi beam flasher switch. So I took the headlight off and got to the hi beam wiring. Using a meter I found which wire supplied juice to the hi beam.
I took the bullet connectors apart and inserted the stripped wires (from remote) to the correct wire in harness. Positive to Positive... Neg to Neg.
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff27/charlieff/GarageDIY004.jpg)
Connected the bullet connectors back together. And you might have noticed the really cool duct tape wrap job.... ya super cool.
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff27/charlieff/GarageDIY006.jpg)
Now test. Turn key on.... and using the flash open/close garage door....wow... like magic.
I've been running this way for years and have had no problems.
Cost maybe $22.37 plus your time.
I hope this helps. I had a 1/2 day today and was drinking...starting early as they say. So if the above doesn't make sense... just know this... it does to me. :-*
Charlief.......Dude, your a funny muthr fkr! Great write up and you made it easy as pie. I'm gonna go try this soon. Thanks for the post [thumbsup]
Lou
Any limits on what gauge wires I can use. Looks like Charlief used some pretty heavy gauge stuff but still used small gauge stuff to connected directly to the circuit board.
Quote from: erkishhorde on December 13, 2008, 10:09:14 AM
Any limits on what gauge wires I can use. Looks like Charlief used some pretty heavy gauge stuff but still used small gauge stuff to connected directly to the circuit board.
I just used what I had around on my bench.
Maybe 16g no need to go any heavier.
I guess that's good to know that 12v won't blow out a remote that uses a lesser voltage battery.
And you are not limiting the voltage to the unit, correct?
If that's the case, I may hard wire mine into the bike as well. Great tidbit! Thanks!
I just leave the remote on the key ring... you know, on the key that's in the ignition. Doesn't flap around or anything.
(http://www.consolidateddoors.com/products/liftmaster/970LM_lg.gif)
Quote from: wark on December 13, 2008, 10:59:44 PM
I just leave the remote on the key ring... you know, on the key that's in the ignition. Doesn't flap around or anything.
(http://www.consolidateddoors.com/products/liftmaster/970LM_lg.gif)
Mine used to and scratched up my tank....
Plus then you still have to stop to use it unless you're quick and can grab it and push the button while coasting which isn't much different from me fumbling for the remote in my jacket pocket while coasting.
Quote from: billg69gmc on December 13, 2008, 03:26:08 PM
I guess that's good to know that 12v won't blow out a remote that uses a lesser voltage battery.
And you are not limiting the voltage to the unit, correct?
If that's the case, I may hard wire mine into the bike as well. Great tidbit! Thanks!
I fried a remote by hooking it up to the high-beam switch. :( I compromised and now I attach a remote to the top of my gauges with velcro.
Quote from: NAKID on December 14, 2008, 12:41:00 PM
Mine used to and scratched up my tank....
Woops. 696 has a little plastic nook for it.
Quote from: erkishhorde on December 14, 2008, 02:06:58 PM
Plus then you still have to stop to use it unless you're quick and can grab it and push the button while coasting which isn't much different from me fumbling for the remote in my jacket pocket while coasting.
Meh. Better than stopping for a lot longer to do this mod. ;D
Quote from: pompetta on December 14, 2008, 02:41:44 PM
I fried a remote by hooking it up to the high-beam switch. :( I compromised and now I attach a remote to the top of my gauges with velcro.
What kinda remote did you fry?
Quote from: wark on December 14, 2008, 03:53:08 PM
Meh. Better than stopping for a lot longer to do this mod. ;D
I'm out waiting on a throttle assembly and opener cable anyway.
Quote from: erkishhorde on December 14, 2008, 10:10:42 PM
What kinda remote did you fry?
It was a small 3-button remote that I got it from "aaaremotes.com" for my Sears/Liftmaster garage door opener. I should have known better, because it ran on a small (3V ?) Li battery.
Yeah that would do it. When I did this mod I used a remote that accepted 12 volts. Also so it wasn't constantly energized while I had my high beams on I used a diode on the signal line.
Quote from: Gimpy on December 21, 2008, 05:10:17 PM
Yeah that would do it. When I did this mod I used a remote that accepted 12 volts. Also so it wasn't constantly energized while I had my high beams on I used a diode on the signal line.
How does this work? I'm not super familiar w/ electronics. I kinda know what a diode does but I don't really know what it looks like/ how to connect one or pretty much anything other than what it does.
A diode looks just like a resistor and works as a one way valve for electricity. In one direction the electricity sees a nearly zero-ohm load, but the other direction it sees a nearly infinite load.
I'm not sure how Gimpy would have used one to do what he's talking about.
shamelessly stolen from TOB
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3254/3126938117_4ea27a912b.jpg)
What's the "before" diagram look like?
I may be wrong, but I guess the diode prevents the opener from sending out a constant signal while your Hi-Beam head is on at the switch. The diode allows the flash "trigger" to work both the headlights and the remote, and the Hi/Lo switch to only work the headlights.
???
Quote from: bmonty72 on December 22, 2008, 02:07:59 PM
I may be wrong, but I guess the diode prevents the opener from sending out a constant signal while your Hi-Beam head is on at the switch. The diode allows the flash "trigger" to work both the headlights and the remote, and the Hi/Lo switch to only work the headlights.
???
That is exactly right. The before diagram would look almost the same minus the garage door opener and wires, and in place of the diode is just a direct connection. Essentially the garage door opener button is short circuited so that it acts like it is constantly depressed, but the opener only receives power when the pass switch is connected. Without the diode the high beams being on would also energize the opener.
So basically wire the remote in somewhere between the switch and the high beam and wire the diode in after the remote?
OK, I figured that was it, but wanted to hear it from those who've done the mod. Thanks.
Quote from: Gimpy on December 21, 2008, 11:33:06 PM
shamelessly stolen from TOB
No prob Gimpy, saved me some work...(that was my little diagram from TOB...that's how I have mine hooked up....). [thumbsup]
Quote from: mmakay on December 22, 2008, 10:27:02 PM
OK, I figured that was it, but wanted to hear it from those who've done the mod. Thanks.
Wait, is that going from my post? I meant to ask that as a question.
Quote from: erkishhorde on December 22, 2008, 09:44:22 PM
So basically wire the remote in somewhere between the switch and the high beam and wire the diode in after the remote?
Well more along the lines of. After bypassing the button on the garage door opener. Wire the ground of the garage door opener to ground, and then the 12v + to the the passing switch. Then wire in a diode inline between the flasher switch and the Hi/Lo switch.
I was thinking of the same thing, but I was wondering...
My ex-wife's car had a remote control built in that you could program to open any garage door/ gate by pointing the remote at it while pressing a button. It allowed you to program/ open 3 doors with different frequency openers. Is there a smaller version of this not attached to a minivan? I'm thinking of programming it to open my Mom's gate, my garage door, and Selma Hyak's gate - once the restraining order is lifted.
This project could not only be twice the fun, but make me feel better about the 13 years it took me to pay back those student loans for the EE degree I never got.
Homelink for motorcycles
http://www.genie-garage-door-openers.com/homelink.htm (http://www.genie-garage-door-openers.com/homelink.htm)
Quote from: Charlief on December 26, 2008, 12:49:05 PM
Homelink for motorcycles
Wow, expensive AND ugly ... now that's a tough combo to beat! [evil]
Quote from: Charlief on December 26, 2008, 12:49:05 PM
Homelink for motorcycles
http://www.genie-garage-door-openers.com/homelink.htm (http://www.genie-garage-door-openers.com/homelink.htm)
Dude!
Perfect thanks.
Quote from: mmakay on December 26, 2008, 01:47:31 PM
Wow, expensive AND ugly ... now that's a tough combo to beat! [evil]
Because there's sexy ones out there?
Finally got around to tinkering. I split the cost of a new receiver for my dad's garage door so that I can break his old remote that was falling apart anyway. Started by clipping off the 9V battery connector and soldering on some wires to extend it.
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e70/erkishhorde/DSC_0133.jpg)
Then I tried just soldering the switch together but that didn't work so I pulled the switch off an and soldered on a wire to close the switch. (wire on the top)
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e70/erkishhorde/DSC_0135.jpg)
For some reason the thing still didn't work so I got I tried pulling the burnt out light bulb and soldering a wire in. (U shaped wire right by the hole in the middle) Oddly enough, that worked. The remote worked perfectly fine before I started tinkering with it even w/ the burnt out light bulb but whatever.
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e70/erkishhorde/DSC_0134.jpg)
I tested it and it still works. ;D
I want to try doing the diode bit so I'm trying to figure out what kinda diode I need. Also trying to figure out the wiring. From the wiring diagram that was posted, it looks like the diode goes between the high beam switch and flasher switch. These are both in the controls and handlebar and I imagine it would be a tight fit to add anything into there but I haven't had the time to look yet.
Also on the list is making a new box for this thing. I'm thinking of taking some plexi glass I have laying around and bending that into a box. I also need to decide where I'm gonna put this thing because I'm not running a stock headlight anymore and I'm not sure I have enough space in there for the unit (it's about 3x3 right now).
You're exactly right on the placement on the diode. It's a tight fit but you can get it to work. I used some soldering paste to hold the diode in place (and the correct orientation) and then I heated it up to melt the paste. As far as hiding the unit itself, I have mine Velcro'd near the battery. it has a limited range underneath the tank but it is enough.
so i really want to do this mod, but i couldn't help but notice this remote (foudn here for $10!) is a 9V battery not 12V
http://aspdoors.com/MultiCode-3089-Remote-Garage-Door-Transmitter/M/B000JILOK8.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle (http://aspdoors.com/MultiCode-3089-Remote-Garage-Door-Transmitter/M/B000JILOK8.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle)
will this work???? resistors maybe? thanks guys
Quote from: ducatitorrey on May 10, 2009, 06:49:33 PM
so i really want to do this mod, but i couldn't help but notice this remote (foudn here for $10!) is a 9V battery not 12V
http://aspdoors.com/MultiCode-3089-Remote-Garage-Door-Transmitter/M/B000JILOK8.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle (http://aspdoors.com/MultiCode-3089-Remote-Garage-Door-Transmitter/M/B000JILOK8.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle)
will this work???? resistors maybe? thanks guys
I don't think anyone is using a remote that actually uses a 12V battery. Come to think of it, I've never seen a garage door opener that uses a 12v batter. They're all either 9v or Li nowadays. It should work fine.
Quote from: erkishhorde on May 10, 2009, 09:04:04 PM
I don't think anyone is using a remote that actually uses a 12V battery. Come to think of it, I've never seen a garage door opener that uses a 12v batter. They're all either 9v or Li nowadays. It should work fine.
You are mistaken. The Genie keyfob size remote takes a 12V battery. The battery is an Energizer, type A23 , 12V alkaline cell.
If you connect 12V to a remote that is designed for less than 12V, there is a very high probability that you will no longer have a functional remote.
Quote from: ducatitorrey on May 10, 2009, 06:49:33 PM
so i really want to do this mod, but i couldn't help but notice this remote (foudn here for $10!) is a 9V battery not 12V
http://aspdoors.com/MultiCode-3089-Remote-Garage-Door-Transmitter/M/B000JILOK8.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle (http://aspdoors.com/MultiCode-3089-Remote-Garage-Door-Transmitter/M/B000JILOK8.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle)
will this work???? resistors maybe? thanks guys
Since the remote should take very little current, you can probably use two resistors to make a voltage divider.
R1 R2
12V -----xxxxx--|--xxxxx -----GND
|
|
V2
V2 = (R2/(R1+R2)) * 12V
Keep in mind that the resistors will be dissipating power (wattage), so make sure that you size them appropriately, and account for the heat that they might generate. Small resistance values will dissipate more power, but allow the voltage V2 to be more consistent given that the current drawn by the remote will be a variable.
I think that you'd be better off just buying a remote that is designed for 12V.
Just seen this in the new issue of motorcyclist
http://www.f2ptechnologies.com/product/102102/102102__Flash2Pass_System_for_Motorcycle.html (http://www.f2ptechnologies.com/product/102102/102102__Flash2Pass_System_for_Motorcycle.html)
seems like an easy install
Quote from: Ivan on May 10, 2009, 09:32:07 PM
I think that you'd be better off just buying a remote that is designed for 12V.
Or just leave the 9v on with the remote. You gotta find somewhere to hide the PCB anyway. Sure, the battery might need to get replaced in a few years, but that annoyance is minor compared to messing with all the other electrical stuff (IMO).
Needs a little more dremeling to get things flush...
(http://tobin.smugmug.com/photos/533670249_maQgf-M.jpg)
i have experience with resistors, so i may try that. if i do keep the 9V in the remote, will i still be able to connect the switch to the high beam trigger?
Quote from: ducatitorrey on May 11, 2009, 03:17:11 AM
i have experience with resistors, so i may try that. if i do keep the 9V in the remote, will i still be able to connect the switch to the high beam trigger?
If you are not going to switch the power on & off to the remote, you'll need a dedicated switch without any voltage on it. Think of it as another switch wired in parallel with the existing switch in your remote. You could use your flash to pass switch, but you would need to disconnect it from your high beam circuit so that there is no voltage on it.
I was actually thinking about picking up one of these units. The instruction manual is pretty concise and it looks really easy to use. I did notice some problems with the potential pricing and the fact that they make a large amount of noise, even when not in use.
BMW F800S Garage Door Opener (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1C-Bxifv2Pk#lq-hq-vhq)
Quote from: Jarvicious on May 11, 2009, 08:55:37 PM
I was actually thinking about picking up one of these units. The instruction manual is pretty concise and it looks really easy to use. I did notice some problems with the potential pricing and the fact that they make a large amount of noise, even when not in use.
BMW F800S Garage Door Opener (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1C-Bxifv2Pk#lq-hq-vhq)
Lol, that's the third time that's been posted in the last month.
Yeah, but I didn't see it in this thread yet :) :)
I've used the MotoFX BIGDO opener on my Monster and the Flash2Pass opener on my R1150GS. They're both pretty sweet.
For the MotoFX I wired it into the wiring harness that runs under the seat to the tail light/blinkers and open the garage door with a quick left/right on the turn signals. The downside to MotoFX is that it's expensive, the company you buy it from it totally unresponsive and it takes a long time to actually get your stuff in the mail. If your garage door opener is older than 1997 you have to get a universal receiver, which is another downside, but for me I have an oldie anyway so it didn't matter.
(http://pschultz.smugmug.com/photos/496832217_wBF4y-L.jpg)
The Flash2Pass can only be used off the headlight and uses a double click of the flash to pass button to trigger the opener, but it actually super easy to install and a lot cheaper than the MotoFX. Another upside to the Flash2Pass is that you can cheaply ($35?) buy additional transmitters for the same receiver.
Another upside to Flash2Pass is that you can order them from places like motorcycle-superstore and even pick up the basic transmitter+receiver combo from Cycle Gear.
Having used both I have to say the Flash2Pass is the one I'd recommend.
Quote from: TobyDanger on May 11, 2009, 01:37:03 AM
Or just leave the 9v on with the remote. You gotta find somewhere to hide the PCB anyway. Sure, the battery might need to get replaced in a few years, but that annoyance is minor compared to messing with all the other electrical stuff (IMO).
TobyDanger got me thinking...and I agree. I got a small universal remote and soldered on a couple of leads running to momentary switch. I located the switch under the reservoir & tucked the circuit board under the seat. This works great and looks pretty good too. Plus, no messing with the bikes wiring.
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt315/hihhs/DSC00614.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt315/hihhs/DSC00613.jpg)
Quote from: hihhs on June 07, 2009, 01:28:29 PM
TobyDanger got me thinking...and I agree. I got a small universal remote and soldered on a couple of leads running to momentary switch. I located the switch under the reservoir & tucked the circuit board under the seat. This works great and looks pretty good too. Plus, no messing with the bikes wiring.
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt315/hihhs/DSC00614.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt315/hihhs/DSC00613.jpg)
tha is the cleanest install I have seen yet
I did something in between TobyDanger and Scoby2Duck in terms of the $3 red push button switch and the button location (the black tab between the Ignition and the Kill Switch). I then ran wires back to the garage door opener which I velcro'd under the seat and put a 10yr Lithium 9 Volt Battery in it. The key take away is to be careful drilling that hole for the pushbutton switch. I started with small drill bits and increased. It's just plastic so too much force and it seems like it would just break apart. I needed 1/2" for the switch but I only went up to 3/4" drill bit because after 3/4" I could tell 1/2" would've broken it into pieces for sure so I just used a file to increase the size of the hole till the switch fit.
Here's the materials I picked up at Radio Shack to do it:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7418/14038212802_b34dc6d48a.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/novvzL)IMG_2061 (https://flic.kr/p/novvzL) by ricknieto (https://www.flickr.com/people/65036619@N04/), on Flickr
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5442/14041873574_619472fc24.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/noQgNw)IMG_2056 (https://flic.kr/p/noQgNw) by ricknieto (https://www.flickr.com/people/65036619@N04/), on Flickr
Here's the Garage Door Opener circuit board. I left the original push button switch on it and just removed the top of it. Then I just soldered the wires to the back of the circuit board where the original switch was soldered.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5194/14041872754_096da37f72.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/noQgyo)IMG_2057 (https://flic.kr/p/noQgyo) by ricknieto (https://www.flickr.com/people/65036619@N04/), on Flickr
Here's where I decided to put it after seeing the pics here. I just opened it up to make sure there was room. That black tab does come out easily but I put it back in and drilled through it while it was still on the bike. Be careful not to hit your handle bars underneath if you do this.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5059/14018291716_d94d986566_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/nmKpJL)IMG_2058 (https://flic.kr/p/nmKpJL) by ricknieto (https://www.flickr.com/people/65036619@N04/), on Flickr
Here's the drill hole under the tab. I had the tab on during drilling then removed it to file it down and mount the button.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2902/14061423183_9d2119b77a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/nqytdK)IMG_2062 (https://flic.kr/p/nqytdK) by ricknieto (https://www.flickr.com/people/65036619@N04/), on Flickr
Here's the new switch button mounted on that tab after I filed the hole in the tab till it fit.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7184/14041870144_6dfdca04d5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/noQfMo)IMG_2063 (https://flic.kr/p/noQfMo) by ricknieto (https://www.flickr.com/people/65036619@N04/), on Flickr
Here's the Garage Door Opener back in it's case velcro'd under the seat (which is where I relocated my frame stickers as well)
I used the Heat Shrink Tubes in various spots to cover the two wires and ran then back along the frame with the other wires that run along the Trellis frame.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7038/14041424705_81668c5e3a.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/noMYnp)IMG_2067 (https://flic.kr/p/noMYnp) by ricknieto (https://www.flickr.com/people/65036619@N04/), on Flickr
Here's the final setup works like a charm. Took a little over 1 hour start to finish. Super easy! [thumbsup]
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2905/14041869564_ef68e59043_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/noQfBo)IMG_2064 (https://flic.kr/p/noQfBo) by ricknieto (https://www.flickr.com/people/65036619@N04/), on Flickr
Quote from: Jarvicious on May 11, 2009, 08:55:37 PM
I was actually thinking about picking up one of these units. The instruction manual is pretty concise and it looks really easy to use. I did notice some problems with the potential pricing and the fact that they make a large amount of noise, even when not in use.
BMW F800S Garage Door Opener (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1C-Bxifv2Pk#lq-hq-vhq)
I have the Blonde version. The special feature with this unit is that I do not have to press any button or switch. The advanced Blonde unit senses my Ducati (with Termis) in the driveway and automatically opens the door upon my arrival. ;D
Now seriously, I keep a remote switch in my pocket (one of three 2" by 1" generic units), but usually my wife or one of my daughters hears me and opens it. Only the thickest winter gloves/pants stops me being able to press the switch in my pocket while still on the bike if no one is home.
I just velcroed a small remote (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051V41CQ/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to the underside of my tank. Cost about $20 and took 2 minutes.
This mod totally made sense back when garage remotes were the size of a deck of cards. These days the tiny little sucker fits right in my tank bag with no space lost. I only use it when the blonde remote unit fails. 8)
The blonde units rock! [thumbsup]
For the life of me, I cannot understand why anyone would go to the trouble of klugeing up a remote / screwing up their switch housing / adding extra switches / carry spare remotes in bags or elsewhere when the Flash2Pass is so cheap and easy to install!?!
Just my opinion, others may have erroneous opinions. ;)
Quote from: oldndumb on May 08, 2014, 10:25:12 AM
For the life of me, I cannot understand why anyone would go to the trouble of klugeing up a remote / screwing up their switch housing / adding extra switches / carry spare remotes in bags or elsewhere when the Flash2Pass is so cheap and easy to install!?!
Just my opinion, others may have erroneous opinions. ;)
I was just looking at the F2P setup, how does that work? Details...
Based on this video Flash2Pass looks like a much bigger pain to install than the mod I did.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vD6niF2uXc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vD6niF2uXc)
I ran two wires on my bike to my existing Garage Door opener under the seat and mounted the button on the handlebars. Done. Took about 25 minutes and cost me under $10. Plus I get to tell people what the little red button does. And the reaction is always... :o
DucDucGoos, The video in Duckoff's post is pretty spot on, except it is easier on a Monster. The headlight wires are at the connector on left side of headstock. Really simple, and not polarity dependent.
Obviously, as seen from the posts, there are several options re a garage door opener. For me, the F2P offered the most trouble free one. I'll confess that I had previously done the on board opener with an aux button, but encountered problems. A failed Radiddyo Shack button and a dead battery motivated me to try the F2P. Since then I've put one on three bikes.
Why not just pick up another remote, slip off the mounting bracket, and put it in your pocket?
They're about the size of a key fob and can be had for $40.00 or less. No modifications required. Just tap your kevlar jeans pocket as you approach your driveway and, presto, the inner sanctum awaits!
This is what I did after contemplating the situation for a couple years, and it couldn't be simpler. The hardest part was programming the new remote to the door opener. And even I could figure that out. ;D
I also just grabbed a key fob remote from Lowes and put it on my key chain.
These mods are pretty cool though.
I just use one of these, attached to my bike ignition key. It is waterproof and dangles in the well, between the tank and the triple, with the ignition so is easy to reach and press. It is then in my pocket if I go for a walk, as the garage is the main entrance to the house.
(http://banoragaragedoorsgoldcoast.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/2-Button-Water-Resistant-Transmitter1-280x209.jpg)