garage door opener mod

[Holden]

I just leave the remote on the key ring... you know, on the key that's in the ignition. Doesn't flap around or anything.

[NAKID]

I just leave the remote on the key ring... you know, on the key that's in the ignition. Doesn't flap around or anything.

Mine used to and scratched up my tank....

[erkishhorde]

Plus then you still have to stop to use it unless you're quick and can grab it and push the button while coasting which isn't much different from me fumbling for the remote in my jacket pocket while coasting.

[DucHead]

I guess that's good to know that 12v won't blow out a remote that uses a lesser voltage battery.
And you are not limiting the voltage to the unit, correct?

If that's the case, I may hard wire mine into the bike as well. Great tidbit! Thanks!

I fried a remote by hooking it up to the high-beam switch.    I compromised and now I attach a remote to the top of my gauges with velcro.

[Holden]

Mine used to and scratched up my tank....

Woops. 696 has a little plastic nook for it.

Plus then you still have to stop to use it unless you're quick and can grab it and push the button while coasting which isn't much different from me fumbling for the remote in my jacket pocket while coasting.

Meh. Better than stopping for a lot longer to do this mod.

[erkishhorde]

I fried a remote by hooking it up to the high-beam switch.    I compromised and now I attach a remote to the top of my gauges with velcro.

What kinda remote did you fry?

Meh. Better than stopping for a lot longer to do this mod.

I'm out waiting on a throttle assembly and opener cable anyway.

[DucHead]

What kinda remote did you fry?

It was a small 3-button remote that I got it from "aaaremotes.com"  for my Sears/Liftmaster garage door opener.  I should have known better, because it ran on a small (3V ?) Li battery.

[Gimpy]

Yeah that would do it. When I did this mod I used a remote that accepted 12 volts.  Also so it wasn't constantly energized while I had my high beams on I used a diode on the signal line. 

[erkishhorde]

Yeah that would do it. When I did this mod I used a remote that accepted 12 volts.  Also so it wasn't constantly energized while I had my high beams on I used a diode on the signal line. 

How does this work? I'm not super familiar w/ electronics. I kinda know what a diode does but I don't really know what it looks like/ how to connect one or pretty much anything other than what it does.

[mmakay]

A diode looks just like a resistor and works as a one way valve for electricity.  In one direction the electricity sees a nearly zero-ohm load, but the other direction it sees a nearly infinite load.

I'm not sure how Gimpy would have used one to do what he's talking about.

[Gimpy]

shamelessly stolen from TOB

[mmakay]

What's the "before" diagram look like?

[bmonty72]

I may be wrong, but I guess the diode prevents the opener from sending out a constant signal while your Hi-Beam head is on at the switch.  The diode allows the flash "trigger" to work both the headlights and the remote,  and the Hi/Lo switch to only work the headlights. 

[Gimpy]

I may be wrong, but I guess the diode prevents the opener from sending out a constant signal while your Hi-Beam head is on at the switch.  The diode allows the flash "trigger" to work both the headlights and the remote,  and the Hi/Lo switch to only work the headlights. 

That is exactly right.   The before diagram would look almost the same minus the garage door opener and wires, and in place of the diode is just a direct connection.  Essentially the garage door opener button is short circuited so that it acts like it is constantly depressed, but the opener only receives power when the pass switch is connected. Without the diode the high beams being on would also energize the opener.

[erkishhorde]

So basically wire the remote in somewhere between the switch and the high beam and wire the diode in after the remote?