I'm in the process of doing a complete overhaul on my 98 M750 and I was wondering how to remove the wheel bearings and cush drive bushings on the three-spoke brembos.  I've already pulled the steering head bushings, etc.  This is the last step before I can take everything to the powder coater.  Also, where is a good place to buy replacement bearings, bushings, and other OEM parts?

You're going to want a service manual when you go to put it all back together, so why not get one now to help you take it apart?

The bearings are removed using a drift punch and hammer.  Constantly change the position of the drift so you do not cock the bearing.  Do not re use the bearings.  Install using a piece of pipe or a socket that contacts the outer race but is smaller than the seat.  The cush drives, not easy.  It usually requires a hammer and chisel, care is required not to damage the wheel.

Ditto on get a manual.

My cush drive bushings were a nightmare getting out. 3 just came out, the other 3 took a lot of work, and had to use the dremel, very carefully to weaken the brass outer ring the get it to come out. I wouldn't do a major project like this without a manual either.

Wheel bearing should pop out, try a slide hammer? bearing puller?

Thanks for the posts everyone.  The bike is already completely torn down (minus the bearings).  I have the LT Snyder book and will be ordering a Haynes manual (or something similar).  Although, everything has been pretty straightforward with the bike so far.  Even so, it's nice to hear about other people's experiences (such as printman's). 

I've been using a drift punch and a hammer but there doesn't seem to be enough room to slide it through on the rear wheel and it wasn't working on the cush drive bushings.  It looked like there were some notches on the axle guide between the rear wheel bearings that might accept some special tool.  It's probably just a cut-out for some initial drift punch positions, though.  Well, it looks like I need a longer punch and a slide hammer might be a wise investment as well (I have an upcoming differential/final drive install on my car that's probably gonna require one anyway).

Again, thanks for the posts.  All were helpful.

Still curious about a place to buy replacement OEM parts...

Those cut outs are for the drift punch.

Quote from: Wholey Smokes on July 03, 2008, 01:54:40 PM
Thanks for the posts everyone.  The bike is already completely torn down (minus the bearings).  I have the LT Snyder book and will be ordering a Haynes manual (or something similar). 

For questions like this one, I usually find the exploded parts diagrams are pretty good at explaining to me how things fit together / come apart. (They're downloadable from the ducati.com website for 2000 and up models, which are similar enough in 99% of cases to my '99 M750)

big

I found most of my replacement bearings at local bearing supplier, just took him samples of all the ones I needed

A blind bearing remover works well on front wheels. If you're going to do this kind of work I suggest investing in a bearing removal/instillation kit so you can do it properly.

The oven also works, though I use that trick for motors and never wheels, but I would guess it would work the same.

you can use the old bearing to help knock the new bearings in too if you don't have a pipe or something the right size...

Quote from: desmoworks on July 04, 2008, 06:46:00 AM
A blind bearing remover works well on front wheels. If you're going to do this kind of work I suggest investing in a bearing removal/instillation kit so you can do it properly.

Correct.....the best way to remove the bearings from the wheels with the newer style spacer is with a blind bearing remover. You *can* use a hammer and punch, but it can be a royal PITFA. I've changed out two sets of bearings using a hammer and punch, but it was not fun nor easy. The older, conventional style spacer (just a piece of pipe) is easy to use the hammer and punch, but the newer spacers do not allow enough movement of the spacer and there is only one access slot....meaning you do not have an option on which bearing to remove first. Here is a picture of the newer style spacer with ribs and the access slot...



This is the older style spacer and the two old bearings that I pulled out of my 1987 Ducati Paso 750...

I tried using a punch on that spacer notch and it didn't work--it just ended up making the notch bigger, and bigger, and...

I finally took it in to the shop and had them remove the bearings.  If I had to do it again, I'd just buy my own bearing puller kit.

Quote from: Cider on July 08, 2008, 07:15:02 PM
I tried using a punch on that spacer notch and it didn't work--it just ended up making the notch bigger, and bigger, and...

I finally took it in to the shop and had them remove the bearings.  If I had to do it again, I'd just buy my own bearing puller kit.

You're supposed to use a punch from the other side, through the hole, and on the bearing race that the notch faces on, not on the notch, itself.

Sorry, dumb joke.  I considered trying to remove the cush drive and bearings myself before I had my wheels coated, but I had the shop do it instead--I figured I'd mess it up somehow.  Apparently, it wasn't an easy job for the shop, as they claimed two hours labor!  I politely asked if it really took that long, and they decided to charge me one hour labor instead.  I guess I'll never know how long it actually took, but evidently it can be difficult even with a shop full of tools.

Quote from: Cider on July 08, 2008, 07:44:20 PM
Sorry, dumb joke.  I considered trying to remove the cush drive and bearings myself before I had my wheels coated, but I had the shop do it instead--I figured I'd mess it up somehow.  Apparently, it wasn't an easy job for the shop, as they claimed two hours labor!  I politely asked if it really took that long, and they decided to charge me one hour labor instead.  I guess I'll never know how long it actually took, but evidently it can be difficult even with a shop full of tools.

they tend to fall right out after a powdercoat bake