many of them replace the engine bolt like that. ill try and remember to take a picture of the one at work that had the puck ripped out of the mount.

if you are replacing an engine bolt with something that will be taking huge impacts, you want to get the strongest, best made piece you can find. frame sliders are ugly, get the one that functions best.

Quote from: xsephirot on May 30, 2012, 06:15:01 AM
The T-Rex ones replace one of the stock bars holding the engine to the frame. You will just line up the new bar and use a rubber mallet and knock it through. You may need to jack up your engine to take some weight off and make it easier. I will say the T-Rex metal feels of higher quality than whatever Ducati used.

Yeah this is the step that had me a bit nervours.    It tells you to knock out your engine mount bolt with a bar and mallet in the T-Rex install Directions. But...then whats holding my engine up? They dont tell you prop up the engine first. I figure there's got to be another point where the engine is attached to the frame otherwise they'd tell you to prop up the engine but I dont know where that is so I stopped cold. It sounds like I should be putting a cinder block or something else to prop up the engine while performing this step. Correct? Any advice or insight here?

Prop up the engine.

Quote from: howie on June 06, 2012, 09:17:19 PM
Prop up the engine.

Rear bike stand and a car jack? I've currently got rear bike stand and a cinder block + brick + 2x4 block of wood but it's not really propping it up as much as waiting for it to fall. I worry that if it does drop a bit from removing the engine bolt that I'll be hard pressed to get it back up to the right height to pass through the new bolt. Can I push the old bolt out with the new one so that it never really drops?

I am waiting on a set of Motovation frame sliders I have ordered.

I am planning to use a car jack to prop the engine when removing the bolt - My plan is to push out the bolt a little with whatever is handy (not the new bolt in case the thread gets damaged) then pull it out the rest of the way adjusting the car jack, at the same time, to the right height such that the bolt pulls out as smoothly as possible.  I plan to insert the new stud just before the original bolt is removed (in case engine and/or frame moves).  Can't tell if this will work though until I get the parts to try it.

I want to add a new query to the list though.  Isn't the original engine bolt a 10.9 grade (on the M696)?  The replacements (including Motovation) tend to be stainless steel which is at best an 8.8 grade.  Typically higher grade = higher cost, so manufacturers don't use them unless they need to.  Can anyone advise if the torque spec in the Motovation installation manual is the same as Ducati's torque spec for that engine bolt?  Has anyone had issues with the bolt coming loose or any frame/engine movement with the sliders installed?

Quote from: Duck Off on June 06, 2012, 09:33:08 PM

Rear bike stand and a car jack? I've currently got rear bike stand and a cinder block + brick + 2x4 block of wood but it's not really propping it up as much as waiting for it to fall. I worry that if it does drop a bit from removing the engine bolt that I'll be hard pressed to get it back up to the right height to pass through the new bolt. Can I push the old bolt out with the new one so that it never really drops?

kickstand, car jack under the motor with a block of wood juuust snug-like. then loosen the engine bolt, remove, install sliders.

easy peasy lemon squeezey

Quote from: DBEng on June 06, 2012, 11:59:24 PM
I want to add a new query to the list though.  Isn't the original engine bolt a 10.9 grade (on the M696)?  The replacements (including Motovation) tend to be stainless steel which is at best an 8.8 grade.  Typically higher grade = higher cost, so manufacturers don't use them unless they need to.

speedymoto uses cromoly for their stud

I personally have been looking at the Woodcraft sliders, due to the fact that I don't have to remove the engine bolt. What do you guys think of them?

http://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=50-0660STD

Quote from: teddy037.3 on June 07, 2012, 09:02:06 AM
speedymoto uses cromoly for their stud

Thanks for the tip!  May have to reconsider what I have ordered.
Does the piece that screws onto the main stud use a washer?  It looks narrower than a standard nut or bolt head.

As for the Woodcraft sliders, I just thought they stood out too much (visually, not physically).  That's only a matter of personal opinion though.  I just have this mental image of people with cars that have big plastic protectors on the doors and bumpers.

Removing the engine bolt was super easy. I went a with car jack and a piece of wood . Rubber Mallet Tapped out the engine bolt using the new bolt from T-Rex so there was a continuous bolt support through the engine. Then threw on the sliders washers and bolts with a little grease on the shaft but no Loctite; 45ft/lbs torque

Quote from: Duck Off on June 09, 2012, 07:13:05 PM
Re: Thoughts and opinions on these Frame Sliders...

There will NEVER be a shortage of thoughts and opinions on this forum.
Thats my opinion!

Quote from: DBEng on June 09, 2012, 05:01:58 AM
Thanks for the tip!  May have to reconsider what I have ordered.
Does the piece that screws onto the main stud use a washer?  It looks narrower than a standard nut or bolt head.

honestly, I don't remeber if is used a washer or not.... I think it may have, but don't quote me on that

Quote from: havok151 on June 09, 2012, 04:03:29 AM
I personally have been looking at the Woodcraft sliders, due to the fact that I don't have to remove the engine bolt. What do you guys think of them?

http://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=50-0660STD

that looks like a damn solid way to mount the slider...