DS1000 Timing Belt Replacement

Ivan · July 11, 2008, 10:46:24 PM

Is it necessary to remove the drive pulleys in order to replace the timing belts on a DS1000 engine? It looks like there is not enough clearance between the pulley and the engine case to get the belt on/off the pulley.

Speeddog · July 12, 2008, 12:33:17 AM

There are folks here who have done it.

I've got the spanner socket for the pulley nuts, so I just take 'em off, no point for me to risk customer's belts.

Ivan · July 12, 2008, 07:01:41 AM

Quote from: Speeddog on July 12, 2008, 12:33:17 AM
There are folks here who have done it.

I've got the spanner socket for the pulley nuts, so I just take 'em off, no point for me to risk customer's belts.

Thanks Nick. I see that special spanner costs upwards of $150. I think I'll bring my bike up to you when its due for belts in a few months.

Speeddog · July 12, 2008, 07:25:05 AM

It's a very nice spanner, I've got a velvet-lined box for it.

Looking forward to seeing you!

mitt · July 12, 2008, 09:59:13 AM

I am one of those that made my own crown socket to remove the nuts. It was a PIA, but you are correct, on certain year 1000ds engines (mine is a 2003), you cannot remove the belts w/o removing the drive pulley. People with later model 1000ds engines are able to, but I have never got confirmation what changed - the drive pulley lip size or the engine case clearance.

mitt

Ivan · July 12, 2008, 01:56:41 PM

Quote from: mitt on July 12, 2008, 09:59:13 AM
I am one of those that made my own crown socket to remove the nuts.

Details please.... Did you grind down a regular socket or something?

mitt · July 13, 2008, 04:21:25 PM

Quote from: Ivan on July 12, 2008, 01:56:41 PM
Details please.... Did you grind down a regular socket or something?

First attempt was to machine an entire socket out of regular steel bar stock, with the crowns sticking up alone, but they bent during my first attempt at use.

2nd design I machined a complete socket out of regular bar stock that had slots to insert the crowns that were made from A2 and hardened. This design worked, and is much easier to keep on the nut than the 1st one, since it wraps around the entire nut, not just the notches.

mitt

mitt · July 13, 2008, 04:26:56 PM

2 other homemade items for this project:

a 6mm diameter pin to lock cams in place during belt adjustment:

a anti-rotation tool for the drive pulley when torquing the flare nut down.

mitt

clubhousemotorsports · July 13, 2008, 07:23:47 PM

Nice stuff Mitt
so when are you going to start selling your better than oem tools?

Ivan · July 14, 2008, 11:38:22 AM

Thanks for sharing Mitt, this place rocks!

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DS1000 Timing Belt Replacement