Quote from: ducpainter on March 19, 2013, 05:34:50 AM
The other two wires are for the pump, obviously. One power and one ground

You can feed the pump from any switched source, like the fuel light circuit, or you can add an inline fuse off the main power relay that feeds the fuse box. I'd feed it separately because the pump load might be a bit much for the light circuit.

Do you have a wiring diagram for your bike?

If not, you can use the diagram from almost any carbed monster to figure out where things are.

So Im looking at my sending unit more closely and it doesnt match up to the diagram. Diagram: Black/Lt.Blue/Red/Brown-White. My sending unit: Black/Red/White/Black.

Question:
-Can I do this perhaps: One of the blacks and the white go to the fuel light on my dash. And the other black and the red tie into the harness leading to the fuse panel.

Sure...as long as the red and black go through the sender into the tank.

You can check with an ohm meter.

Just be sure you choose a circuit with enough capacity for the pump

Yes. The wires Im referring to are the four coming off the sender. I was gonna tie red coming off the sender to the main red on the harness that is running between the battery and the fuse box. Sound ok?

Quote from: memper on March 24, 2013, 02:45:29 PM
Yes. The wires Im referring to are the four coming off the sender. I was gonna tie red coming off the sender to the main red on the harness that is running between the battery and the fuse box. Sound ok?

As long as the pair outside are the ones to the pump then yes.

Is that wire switched?

You'll need to add a fuse.

Not switched on the main red coming from the batt. I did plan on using an inline fuse, per your advice prior. Any suggestion on what amp to try?

Quote from: memper on March 24, 2013, 04:20:36 PM
Not switched on the main red coming from the batt. I did plan on using an inline fuse, per your advice prior. Any suggestion on what amp to try?

I'd run a 15 amp fuse but you said you had a diagram for an SS. What does it show?

If it isn't switched how do you turn off the pump?

I got it. That was dumb. Didnt notice the "fuse amp key" on the diagram corner either... 
And you are correct, it is a 15 amp fuse. I think my drawing is right. I just wonder if I still would need an inline fuse where the circle is indicated.

If you do it that way, using the kill switch, the power source to the kill switch is already fused at 7.5 amps for the ignition. That will be the current limiter, and with the sensitivity of the ignition boxes I wouldn't use it.

I don't think the battery is directly wired to the fuse panel though. Because that would mean nothing is switched. Are you sure you're reading the wiring diagram correctly?


I'd tap off the feed side of the fuse panel and just add a 15 amp fuse.

You have 2 fuse slots not used unless they were used  by a previous owner.  I don't remember if the hot side of the fuse is powered or what the bottom of the fuse box looks like, but best would be to power the pump with a relay since it is a 15 amp circuit.  It should shut down with both the ignition switch and the kill switch.  To save me a bunch of typing go here http://www.ducatiusa.com/services/maintenance/index.do for a 2001 900 Monster and follow the fuel pump circuit on that wiring diagram.  Back of the owners manual.  One reason for the relay is so the pump will shut off with the kill switch and ignition switch.  The other is so you are not running the pump through a 7.5 amp circuit.

As far as what gauge wire to use, 18 for under 10', 14 for 15-20' and 12 for more..  I would suggest keeping it simple and use 14 gauge.

Here is the diagram for my '99 M. Below is the '96 ss diagram.
I just tried to copy what the ss diagram showed.

I guess you're good then.

What is the rating of the #2 fuse in the monster fuse panel?

15 amps.
I am using 16g wire. It should be fine.

Ah, it seems they are not using a relay and, from what I can see, are running through the kill switch.  My guess is that pump draws significantly less than 15 amps, which is not surprising since most high pressure pumps draw less than 8 amps.  Without the whole diagram  I cant be sure, but my guess is the fuel pump fuse is protecting more than the fuel pump circuit.

On electric pump bikes they kill the fuel.

On vacuum pumped bikes the switch kills ignition.

Does that fuse match the rating on the key?

edit...

I'm in the process of scanning the diagram from my owners manual.

I believe you have the wrong fuse in the #2 position. My bike is older, but the components are the same...stand by.

Monster wiring by nh_painter, on Flickr


Monster wiring key by nh_painter, on Flickr

Check your fuse panel. As you can see from the factory diagram and key the #2 fuse is 7.5 amps and controls the ignition. If you follow the flikr links you can zoom in on the photos. I wouldn't put the pump load on that circuit with the ignitior boxes. The SS harness cuts the pump, and might also cut the ignition.

Your bike being newer might be different, but without seeing the whole Haynes diagram to be sure, I can't tell.