Good call Nick!
All fixed in bold.

Are you absolutely sure those closers are 8.05 and 8.25?

My range of closers is 6.00 to 7.80.
EMS *does* make closer shims up to 8.30, and OEM goes up to 9.60.

But I don't recall coming across any outside my range....

I am absolutely certain they are NOT. I was on the EMS site earlier and looked at their shim tool example...yeah, this dumbass put the tool in the wrong end of the closers. Hahahaha!
Time to bust out the calipers again...

if you think you need 7 and 7.2, for example, order 6.95, 7, 7.05 and 7.15, 7.2 and 7.25.  same for openers.

New Dunlop rear installed with nothing but oversized zip ties, windex, and some grunting. Air and bead popped at the local mobil station.
Total cost of install $10!

 Rock and Roll!

First valve adjustment. I ordered some closer shims and did some sanding of my openers. Here aremy results. I need to change some things out:
VERTICAL HEAD
Exhaust:                      Intake:
Opener gap: .004.      .005
Closer gap: .001.        .001

HORIZONTAL HEAD
Exhaust:                     Intake:
Opener gap: .004.     .006
Closer gap: .003.       .001

So it looks like my horizontal intake opener was sanded too much (it should be at .004) and the horizontal exhaust opener is a bit too tight (should be .005). And the closer gap is too large. Cam rotated fine. No rubbing.

On the vertical it looks like my exhaust opener is too tight and the intake is too loose. I did notice a bit of rubbing on the cams freeplay on the v head.
Perhaps I can switch around some openers to get what I need...
What causes the cam rubbing?

I might be able to get away with swapping all my openers and I gotta put in a slightly larger horizontal exhaust closer.
Is my vertical cam rubbing because my closers are too close to zero? I dont really understand that part..

Quote from: memper on April 16, 2013, 04:31:32 PM
I might be able to get away with swapping all my openers and I gotta put in a slightly larger horizontal exhaust closer.
Is my vertical cam rubbing because my closers are too close to zero? I dont really understand that part..

It looks like you're using the method where you push on the rocker to unload the exhaust closer to measure.

If you push too hard you can flex the rocker and get an erroneous reading. If you have rubbing when you rotate the cam slightly one or both closers are too tight.

Yep, Im doing the push method. I always wondered about how much is too much or too little. I guess its just a feel thing.

Say the rubbing is due to only one closer. If i put a smaller closer on to reduce the rubbing, wont my closing gap be too large then?

I also read somewhere that closing measurements arent as important as long as no rubbing occurs. That true?

Quote from: memper on April 16, 2013, 05:57:32 PM
Yep, Im doing the push method. I always wondered about how much is too much or too little. I guess its just a feel thing.

Say the rubbing is due to only one closer. If i put a smaller closer on to reduce the rubbing, wont my closing gap be too large then?

I also read somewhere that closing measurements arent as important as long as no rubbing occurs. That true?

My experience/opinion is that Duc 2V motors run best with closers as close to .000 as possible, so I'd say it is not true.

It's most important at low rpm's. The closer you get to the practical breathing limit of the motor the importance diminishes.

How often are you wound tight while riding on the street?

Right. But if I'm rubbing with a gap of .001 I definitely wont be able to get close to .000
Then again, if I'm pushing too firmly on the rocker then perhaps putting on a slightly smaller closer shim (to reduce drag) wont be so far from .000

Quote from: memper on April 16, 2013, 06:51:23 PM
Right. But if I'm rubbing with a gap of .001 I definitely wont be able to get close to .000
Then again, if I'm pushing too firmly on the rocker then perhaps putting on a slightly smaller closer shim (to reduce drag) wont be so far from .000

I guess I'm suggesting you are indeed pushing too hard and getting a false reading.

I don't do it the way you are.

I use the heel of my hand to push on the opening rocker to detect clearance and then change shims. If I can't detect clearance then I check for rubbing.

No detectable clearance and no rubbing is good in my book.

I can see how on the vert cylinder I could push too hard seeing that I have good position for leverage. One or both closers there are too big, I push harder than necessary which shows an inaccurately large gap but I get cam drag because the shim is too big. I get what's happening.

On Thursday I will try your hand method. No chance of scratching the valve chamber when the screwdriver slips either...

I will try to sort out the valves Thursday but I might be distracted by