I'd go with a 120/70 front. That size usually came stock except for the smaller displacement bikes, and some early SS bikes.

If the rear is a 5.5" rim the 180 will be the ticket.

Regarding the tire choice, those get great reviews.

I'd go with a 120/70.

Got it.  Thanks guys.

Ok, my plan was to take off the swing arm and get it powder coated black when I replaced the rear wheel.  Now I'm thinking it may be more a PITA to remove than I thought and so will probably wait until next winter to get that done.  In the interim, and while I have the wheel off, can I poor-man paint the DSS using spray paint?  Not looking to win any design/build contests, just looking to make it black.

I've used refrigerator spray paint to blacken a chrome (?) car grill before, and that lasted a few years before it started to chip, which would be fine for me in this case.  That's what I'm thinking of going with here, but wanted input from those that actually know stuff about stuff.  FTR, my DSS is aluminum because I have an S.  Doubt that matters but thought I'd throw it out there in case it does.

Clean it as best you can.
Rough it up a bit with scotchbrite.
Clean it again.
Mask off what you don't want painted.
Hit it with Krylon.

Lately, the non-glossy variants are a good bit shinier than in the past.
Current 'satin' is more like 'semi-gloss' IMO.

Hit a sample panel first to see how you like it.

Howdy folks.  I'm mid-install and have a cush drive question:

I assume this is my cush drive:





But as you can see in the first picture, there is no cushioning aspect.  I thought I'd seen black rubber-y material in other versions of cush drives for other bikes.  Am I missing something?

Second question is that it does not slide into the wheel easily:



How do I get it in without forcing it?  Should I be using a lubricant?

Ok, from further research, it looks like my cush drive is integrated into the wheel.  That black thing that I can't get installed is a rear sprocket flange.

Question still remains on how to get it in without forcing it.  Lube?  Rubber mallet?

Grease the pins that fit into the inserts of the rubber bushings.

If that doesn't make it slip in easily, you could loosen the pins to see if the tolerance in the holes has something misaligned, then tighten things back up after you get it to fit. If you loosen anything make sure to re-apply locktite. You don't want then loosening up.

edit...
I just noticed those nuts are not tight because you need to install the sprocket. That would indicate the pins are threaded into the carrier. Grease the pins and tap it home with a rubber mallet. It shouldn't take much tapping. If it does check with the supplier or manufacturer.

I have nothing to add other than those wheels look awesome. Completely make the beast with two backsing awesome 

Looking real good!  You're going to love those wheels.  Lube lightly with a suitable grease and tap in with your palm or a piece of wood.  Don't force anything.  Make sure that center black piece fits into the bearing nicely.  I lightly lubed the dust seal contact area to tame the squeak.  Make sure the pre-installed sprocket flange pins that fit into the cush pieces are torqued and loctited (I don't recall if my OZ wheels came with those pins pre-torqued or just threaded in to keep them in place).  Torque and loctite your NEW sprocket in place per specs.  I torqued the pins to the sprocket flange and the sprocket to the flange with the assembly off the bike.  Remember that you'll be removing that entire assembly again when you replace your tires, so it needs to come off/on without much drama - the sprocket will give some lever action to facilitate removal.  The tolerances are tighter on these OZ wheels than the old OE stuff you removed, so things can initially be a bit snug.

BK

Grease and a little tapping got it in.  Thanks DP and BK!

Quote from: BK_856er on March 08, 2014, 03:14:45 PM
The tolerances are tighter on these OZ wheels than the old OE stuff you removed, so things can initially be a bit snug.

Funny you mention that because I'm having a problem...

The wheel just seems too wide.  The nuts on the sprocket side are really close to the swingarm and are in fact hitting the edge of the gold chain adjustment end cap. 



There is a little gap between the spacer on the brake side and the bracket that holds the caliper.  Not a great photo but I did my best to adjust lighting so it can be seen.





I'm hoping that that gap can be closed, allowing enough clearance on the sprocket side.  But I did a bunch of 'controlled forcing' to get it to close and no luck. 

Any suggestions?

I think a call to the supplier to verify proper fitment is in order.

I just checked my M695 (different bike! but also aftermarket OZ wheels in 5.5" size) and my clearance between the sprocket nuts and the rear of the STEEL swingarm (not the end adjuster plate, which does not overhang as much as yours) is 4mm.

Is the sprocket flange all the way "home" in the rear wheel?  Can yourtorque the axle nuts to snug everything and then check clearances again?  Is your rear sprocket aligned to the front sprocket?

Sorry, I'm not expert on the swingarm and other potential differences between years of monsters, my experience is limited to the bikes I own.

BK

Thanks, the 4mm was helpful.  I get 2mm from the swingarm and, obviously, 0mm with respect to the adjustment plate.

Also took off the wheel and did more inspection---that gap between the spacer and the caliper bracket ain't closing because there is a bevel on the end of bracket (clearer in the second pic).





So now I'm really stuck.  Will need to call Motowheels on Monday.  I really really hope I don't have to send them back.  Very disappointed. 

I know it's hard to be so close, and yet so far, so don't rush anything at this point.

Take down the part numbers of the individual pieces so you have all the info when you talk to motowheels (i.e., what you have in hand vs. what you ordered vs. correct fitment).  Could be the right wheel but the wrong sprocket flange?

Sounds like maybe a wheel offset issue?  Are those axle adjuster plates OE?  Are your rear and front sprockets even aligned with the wheel in place?  Do you have a bit of thread showing on the sprocket nuts?

Below is a pic of mine showing gap to the sprocket nuts and alignment of the front/rear sprockets.  I changed from 4.5" to 5.5" and needed to flip my front sprocket and modify my upper chain slider, but I don't think that applies to you.  Apples and oranges, but I provide it as a reference point.

BK

Also, what's up with the overhang here?  Can you just move the adjuster over on the other side to get the required clearance?  My OE adjusters don't have nearly that much overhang, but of course mine are later gen for steel swingarm.

BK