Thanks, BK.  Overhang in the picture is just because the adjuster is loose, but when I set it in place (as seen on the sprocket side pic) there is still the issue.

All relevant parts are OEM as far I know.  Your suggestion of wrong sprocket flange is a decent candidate.  Will know more when I call on Monday.  Sigh.  So close...

Not familiar with those adjusters, but you can't swap R/L sides to swap the overhang and gain clearance for the sprocket nuts?

It's frustrating now, but it'll be worth it in the end after you get everything squared away 

BK

Quote from: BK_856er on March 08, 2014, 07:17:11 PM
Not familiar with those adjusters, but you can't swap R/L sides to swap the overhang and gain clearance for the sprocket nuts?
~~~SNIP~~~

BK

Yes, that's all he needs to do, he's got the adjuster plates on the wrong sides.

If he swaps them, then he will have nut-to-adjuster clearance.

He's got 2mm nut-to-swingarm clearance, and that's fine, My M750 with aluminum swingarm and 5.5 wheel has less than that.

The brake caliper bracket has that little lip because on the OEM wheel, it sits directly against the wheel bearing.
The lip bears on the inner race, and the rest of it has clearance so it doesn't grind up the seal.

Quote from: Speeddog on March 08, 2014, 08:18:27 PM
Yes, that's all he needs to do, he's got the adjuster plates on the wrong sides.

If he swaps them, then he will have nut-to-adjuster clearance.

He's got 2mm nut-to-swingarm clearance, and that's fine, My M750 with aluminum swingarm and 5.5 wheel has less than that.

The brake caliper bracket has that little lip because on the OEM wheel, it sits directly against the wheel bearing.
The lip bears on the inner race, and the rest of it has clearance so it doesn't grind up the seal.

Waiting for the Homer Simpson Doh!

 

Quote from: 1.21GW on March 09, 2014, 06:56:24 AM

We have all been there.

Ok.  Got it.  Too cold to test ride so will have to wait until next week.  But here are concerns:

- Front sprocket retention plate screws.  I did at 6 Nm (per a tutorial on DMF) with some blue loctite. That enough?  I note that LT Snyder uses safety wire but I realized this late and did not have any on hand anyway.

- Chain adjustment bracket.  Due to low clearance (2mm) as noted above, I'm worried about the tendency of this to come undone and then get hit by the spinning sprocket.  I normally use zipties through the axle opening in the swingarm to secure these brackets, but due to low clearance I'm worried about doing this on the sprocket side.  I don't want to use loctite since I need to the screw to be adjustable for the chain.  Any ideas on how to secure?

You're fine on the sprocket plate screws.

In my experience, chain adjustment brackets only get into trouble if the bolts aren't snugged down after the axle is tightened.
You could drill a small hole in both the swingarm and bracket on the bottom and safety wire it, I suppose.

Ditto on Speeddogs advice.

Adjust chain...tighten axle...snug up adjusting bolts then lock nuts...ride.

Quote from: ducpainter on March 09, 2014, 11:59:21 AM

Adjust chain...tighten axle...snug up adjusting bolts then lock nuts... WAIT OUT THIS EVERLASTING FRIKKIN WINTER...ride.

fixed. haha

Can any experts out there give me some guidance on torque numbers for: 1) the rear sprocket bolts and 2) the rear brake rotor bolts?  I don't my Lt. Snyder manual with me.  Also, is loctite (blue?) recommended for either of those?

Quote from: 1.21GW on March 13, 2014, 01:33:04 PM
Can any experts out there give me some guidance on torque numbers for: 1) the rear sprocket bolts and 2) the rear brake rotor bolts?  I don't my Lt. Snyder manual with me.  Also, is loctite (blue?) recommended for either of those?

Torque values for a somewhat earlier bike here... http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=373.msg2528#msg2528

Assuming they're all 8mm diameter I'd just go 16 ft/lbs.

Most use loctite on rotor bolts. I've used red or none myself. It makes an impact driver a requirement for removal if you loctite them.

Thanks, DP. I have to bookmark that link for future reference.

Just curious, because my bracket calipers closed during install and so I had to push the pistons back.  How many rotations should a rear wheel turn if I spin it when up on a rear stand?  I'm worried brake pads may be a little too engaged.

Opposed piston calipers will have some drag, how much is hard to explain to you on the internet.  Depending on strength and speed of your spin I would say 1-3 rotations.