slightly modified S4R footpegs, (because the stock pegs are much too wide -that's half the reason for ground clearance issues, they just stick-out too far.- same for aftermarket rearsets)
The Ducati-brand 696 cooler, and the aftermarket versions mount at the top/front of the frame-and blocked the air flow  to the rr cyclinder-also raising the temp of the throttle bodies, etc by a good 15-20 degrees... (i've tried several versions) , making a mount to fit a low mounted cooler worked the best- (drops the oil temp even more, without heating the induction system and rr cyl ;-)


S4R oil cooler on custom bracket, 1098 forks, matte black paint polished to charcaol grey, bla bla.


,
old 696 setup shown on floor.-the stop for the side stand was just ground down a bit (to fold the stand up all the way -seemed like the primary ground clearance issue, ) the stock shock mount has a spacer added to raise rr height.-along with the longer forks.
(the 1100 shock mount was tooo tall- i assume the 1100 monster has  different geometry/layout for  swingarm, they do use the same spring and shock.) AND finally it runs noticebly stronger after Nick/Valley Desmo set the cam timing, even tho it wasn't all that far off.

Nice 

Nice.   

So I could just walk into the other showroom and measure them but it's easier to ask......

Did the 1098 forks fit into the existing triples or did you buy an aftermarket set or modify the stock ones?

 There are a zillion threads about this, including some from me/this bike etc.
anyway, monsters have 53mm clamps, superbikes are 52mm  upper,  and 54mm lower.
so you have to machine and shim the clamps, or replace with custom-size aftermarket clamps.

there are similar fitment details with rotor offset, and axles/wheels....but  aside from the clamps, it's fairly straight forward.
if you use earlier style forks and claipers from 748-998, then the 696 rotors will align, whereas i had to make large spacers to offset the 696 rotors to fit 1098 fork.

Besides the great looking mods I appreciate the thought and effort you put into heat management. Clearly the issue of road debris hitting the cooler was less of an issue than the hot climate you ride in. If you are near Nick it must get warm! You running a stone guard/mesh? Did you go by the oil temp gauge or use another instrument to measure your results?
Practical mods for real results. That's good work.

  696 Monster doesn't t display oil temp, they display the air temp within the intake tract at the throttle body.- that reading is  compared to ambient air temp, with and without different oil coolers.- the actual air and oil temps are simple enough to check with a themometer.

b.  900ss/sp, all superbikes, monster s4r, and of course the very bike this cooler came from all use low mounted coolers.( i have them on several Ducs)  road debris is pretty-much a non-issue. Whereas the stock 696 cooler blocking (and heating) the air above the front cylinder was my concern..and yup it does run well over 100F + around here some days :-)

Quote from: zippo on April 22, 2014, 03:55:10 PM
  696 Monster doesn't t display oil temp, they display the air temp within the intake tract at the throttle body.- that reading is  compared to ambient air temp, with and without different oil coolers.- the actual air and oil temps are simple enough to check with a themometer.

b.  900ss/sp, all superbikes, monster s4r, and of course the very bike this cooler came from all use low mounted coolers.( i have them on several Ducs)  road debris is pretty-much a non-issue. Whereas the stock 696 cooler blocking (and heating) the air above the front cylinder was my concern..and yup it does run well over 100F + around here some days :-)

Oil temperature is displayed on the 696, or, more accurately a combination of oil and cylinder temperature since the sending unit is in the cylinder instead of the usual crankcase.

the 696 displays air temp in degrees, as i mentioned- the sensor is located in the inlet tract.
The 696 bar graph  doesn't indicate in degrees.- hence my description of separate thermometer for oil and air temps. 

  Nice!  I like the oil cooler. I would mount my loud horn in that space if I moved the oil cooler.

Quote from: zippo on April 22, 2014, 11:14:39 AM
There are a zillion threads about this, including some from me/this bike etc.
anyway, monsters have 53mm clamps, superbikes are 52mm  upper,  and 54mm lower.
so you have to machine and shim the clamps, or replace with custom-size aftermarket clamps.

there are similar fitment details with rotor offset, and axles/wheels....but  aside from the clamps, it's fairly straight forward.
if you use earlier style forks and claipers from 748-998, then the 696 rotors will align, whereas i had to make large spacers to offset the 696 rotors to fit 1098 fork.

SBK Showa are 53mm upper and lower, Ohlins are 53mm upper and 56mm lower.  The shim is readily available from motowheels and maching the top, as stated, is probably the most efficient way to keep stock offest.  Dont forget to measure stock height in order to maintain rake and trail geometry.

Nice work zippo, the 696s are loooooow, good work around.  Do you sit in traffic much?  I am considering the oil cooler move to help keep temps down in traffic.  Nice job, again.

I don't often have to stop where i ride , but when i do, i drink Dos Equis....

but this oil cooler setup is the only one i've had on  696 that actually drops the oil temp back down noticeably after a long stoplight...-on other vehicles, they seem very slow to reduce oil temp once it's risen above the usual range..

Quote from: zippo on April 21, 2014, 10:49:53 AM
slightly modified S4R footpegs, (because the stock pegs are much too wide -that's half the reason for ground clearance issues, they just stick-out too far.- same for aftermarket rearsets)
The Ducati-brand 696 cooler, and the aftermarket versions mount at the top/front of the frame-and blocked the air flow  to the rr cyclinder-also raising the temp of the throttle bodies, etc by a good 15-20 degrees... (i've tried several versions) , making a mount to fit a low mounted cooler worked the best- (drops the oil temp even more, without heating the induction system and rr cyl ;-)


S4R oil cooler on custom bracket, 1098 forks, matte black paint polished to charcaol grey, bla bla.


,
old 696 setup shown on floor.-the stop for the side stand was just ground down a bit (to fold the stand up all the way -seemed like the primary ground clearance issue, ) the stock shock mount has a spacer added to raise rr height.-along with the longer forks.
(the 1100 shock mount was tooo tall- i assume the 1100 monster has  different geometry/layout for  swingarm, they do use the same spring and shock.) AND finally it runs noticebly stronger after Nick/Valley Desmo set the cam timing, even tho it wasn't all that far off.

Are you telling me that if I buy S4R rearsets, they'll go right onto my 696 with only shaving down the stop for the kickstand?  I'm. On. It.

I recently did exactly this with my wife's 696.
It is not entirely a clean swap , some washer/spacers are needed to get a good alignment, and also stop the ankle guards from rubbing on the swing arm.
While I did this I made some CF guards as the sets I was given did not have them.

When you get the rear sets S4R /S2R make sure you get the brake foot lever with it as a set.
As I found out the 696 one does not work.
I also used a long shaft bolt which I rounded the end off on a grinder to replace the brake piston as the OEM one for
some reason was not long enough to get the pedal up to the foot position desired.
Also the micro switch on your new rear sets does not screw into it so you need a special nut (thin)
to hold it in place , i found one with the same thread and put it on a grinder to get it thin enough for the switch to work.
The brake master slave now has to be moved from behind the OEM rear set to the mounts on the new rear set so
your lines will be longer so be careful they do not curve out and melt on the exhaust, shortening it will fix this.

Also make sure you put the bike on a rear paddock stand , as I found out 
The side stand is connected by two bolts one under the rear set if this is undone the stand no longer has lateral support
and the bike will fall over .
Lucky I caught it before it went down.
Sounds more complex than it is but well worth it , visually the bike looks better and without the chicken wing pillion bracket your heals can now lock back without being pushed out .

not exactly bolt-on, but not a big deal either.
i did minor machining of  S4R brake pedal clevis pin for spring to clear swigarm.
re-locate brake reservoir on fabricated bracket
rotate and re-route 696 brake line (to not rub on swingarm)  
modify both heel guards a bit.
the 696 shifter push rod and S4R brake push rod both fit on mine.
the kick stand mod is a separate issue, doesn't matter which pegs.

each s4R peg will mount 14-15mm higher, as well as more rearward and closer to centerline of bike by same distance.
the biggest difference for me is losing the chicken wings.- now  there's about two inches more room for boot/ heel on each side.