Quote from: Buck Naked on August 04, 2014, 05:56:04 PM
I remember my old dirt bike mechanic insisting on jetting my bike rich to keep it from getting to hot. 1mm seems like enough to warrant jetting the carbs? Sorry I can just hear his voice in my head, lol.

Nope, it won't. Can go from stock to +1mm on one of my race bikes and you run the same sized mains. On the other hand, you range from #180 to #200 depending on atmospheric conditions . And yes, for something that will last a little bit longer than half a minute you want to run it rich but not so rich it's doughy and ugh. It's a finer line with 2 strokes, as they really zing as you lean them out... then you melt a piston and go back up a jet size  

^ This is the advice I keep hearing. People get into a pissing contest on how lean an oil/fuel ratio they can run with synthetic 2 stroke oil additive. A customer was running 50:1 with great power until.....
Better to change a plug than a piston/barrel. Keep a spare plug under the seat.

They run best right before they stick. 

For a small motor, best to be on the rich side, as it's a lot easier to run a small motor really hard.
Moreso if you've got long hills to climb on your roads.

I'd worry more about developing an air leak, given the vintage of the bike, and killing it that way.

Oh, and BTW, The Smithsonian called, they want those tires.
Spoon some new rubber on, you won't regret it!

Pretty sure this manual has the process for priming and setting the oil pump (although many years since I looked at one)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CLYMER-SUZUKI-TC125-TM125-TS125-TS185-SERVICE-MANUAL-TC-/270555909693

Have you looked at partzilla for parts
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1978/TS185/FUEL+COCK/parts.html

I have got bits and pieces from them for my 79 dt 250 that is a work in progress

Quote from: garryc on August 07, 2014, 01:10:55 AM
Pretty sure this manual has the process for priming and setting the oil pump (although many years since I looked at one)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CLYMER-SUZUKI-TC125-TM125-TS125-TS185-SERVICE-MANUAL-TC-/270555909693

Have you looked at partzilla for parts
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1978/TS185/FUEL+COCK/parts.html

I have got bits and pieces from them for my 79 dt 250 that is a work in progress

Partzilla is fantastic, huge stock fast ship good service and the best prices. They had parts for my CB200 nobody else did including a lot of old and dead stock.

Quote from: koko64 on August 06, 2014, 10:28:09 PM
^ This is the advice I keep hearing. People get into a pissing contest on how lean an oil/fuel ratio they can run with synthetic 2 stroke oil additive. A customer was running 50:1 with great power until.....
Better to change a plug than a piston/barrel. Keep a spare plug under the seat.

Yeah. Some people just seem to like melting holes in pistons.

Personally, if you're not modifying it and you're not after bulk power, keep the oil injection setup and just make sure a) the pump works (run it first on premix plus the oil pump connected) and b) you adjust the throttle cable side of things correctly. The Suzuki setups are probably the best of all of the Jap 2 strokes.

As best I can tell, the pump is working.  I ran an entire tank of pump gas, it smoked like a 2-stroke should and ran like a champ.  I do want to keep the injection setup if at all possible, that way if I use it as a commuter, I can simply run pump gas.  I did put a new plug in its tool bag under the seat.

I'm certainly not worried about making max power, I think in only makes 16HP or something like that.  I'd rather it be reliable over trying to get 18HP out of it! 

As for the tires, believe it or not, those are the original tires from 1978.  Even the tubes are from 1978, I'm actually surprised they even hold air still!  I certainly plan on putting new ones on, but wanted to get the mechanical and electrical worked out before I dropped more money into it. 

JM

I read on a Suzuki forum that pre-mix won't play well with that motor because the big end of the rod isn't slotted to allow the mix to lube it.

Adjusting that cable isn't particularly difficult. The cam should have a mark you line up with a mark on the pump at idle.

I agree with Speeddog about air leaks being what would most likely be any possible issue.

That is a concern, but everything gasket-wise is pretty solid.  It's got a new head gasket and base gasket,  The only leak I'm worried about is the boot that connects the carb to the airbox.  It was hard on one side, but I can get one of those from eBay.

JM

There is also a rubber seal on each side of the crankshaft.

That is where I'd suspect a leak to cause an unexpected failure.

They are relatively easy to replace once you remove the flywheel and alternator, and the right side cover and primary gears.

I don't believe the primary gears require a puller, but the flywheel generally does.

I'll grab a service manual and check into those.  Age, not miles is the bigger concern for those.  36 year old bike, not even 6,000 miles.  That is definitely a recipe for rubber parts to go south fast.

JM

Quote from: ducpainter on August 07, 2014, 05:47:25 AM
There is also a rubber seal on each side of the crankshaft.

That is where I'd suspect a leak to cause an unexpected failure.

This, common failure causer in the snowmobile world....