I honestly wouldnt know, except I wouldnt sleep well on the alloy ones. I just think of how hard its possible to brake with the rear in the air with the bikes mass multiplied by its speed and leverage kind of thing. I dont know the equation, but my gut says no to alloy bolts for that role.

yeah, no way would I use ally brake calliper (or rotor) bolts...
stainless are fine though, been using them for years

Buck, PM sent.

The mechanical properties claimed by Pro-Bolt for their aluminum fasteners (7075-T6) are shear strength and ultimate tensile strength roughly equal to  18-8 or 316.

In a perfect world, it'd be fine.

But.

7075-T6 is a fairly brittle material, which is the case for most high-strength alloys of any material.
So it doesn't stretch much before it breaks.
The amount it stretches before it breaks, the 'elongation', is about the same as the highest strength metric alloy-steel fasteners (Grade 10.9, 12.9).

And it's ultimate strength is about the same as the aforementioned SS fasteners, and the typical bottom-of-the-barrel 6.8 fasteners that you're likely to get at 'big-box' stores, Home Depot and the like.
But it's only about half the strength of the 10.9 and 12.9 fasteners.

So it's about as strong as the low grade steel or Stainless, but it's brittle like the high strength alloy steels.

That, combined with the poor corrosion resistance of 7075-T6, makes them a poor choice for mission-critical fasteners.

Various locations like engine sidecovers, cam covers, valve covers, bodywork, airbox, electrical components...where the failure of a single bolt isn't going to throw you down on the pavement... go for it.

But brake calipers, where you've only got two bolts, and if one breaks, you're make the beast with two backsed.
Or triple clamp bolts, clipon bolts, rearset bolts, master cylinder bolts.....
You're better off with a steel or stainless fastener.

If you're racing with someone else's budget, and you've got pro wrenches that replace fasteners often and torque 'em right.
Then , roll the dice.
But it's racing, and shit does break every so often.

Putting it another way... you can indiscriminately ride bareback, but it's not even a safe short-term plan, let alone a long-term one.

Are the oem zinc or cad plated? The dealer said zinc.

Pro-Bolt sure does have nice stainless...wowz. Now I have to polish all the others. 

Pretty!

Exhaust is back from the ceramic coaters 😃

F ugly chain guides:



Scrubbed and boiled in RIT dye for 20 mins:

I like that!   

what's RIT dye?

Quote from: monsta on September 09, 2014, 09:31:17 PM
I like that!  

what's RIT dye?

Hey Monsta Geoff it's clothing dye. There's a few threads on here 'bout it. The amount of dye some of them tell you to use it outrageous tho. I've dyed just about every piece of plastic on my bike now, some parts take to it better than others. The mud guard clips and now these chain runners turned out the best. One bottle or pack + a pot of boiling water is all you need and the dye is reusable several times over. Don't use your wife's favorite pit tho!

Looks better than the pic shows, just like it's a factory part.

Here's how the mud guard/ fender clips turned out:





Or you could go this route:

http://www.chuckbrazeau.com/ducati/fendermounts.html

Lots of beautiful parts going on this bike.        Why not replace the huge OEM handlebar switches?   

quote author=monsta link=topic=67621.msg1273159#msg1273159 date=1410323477]
I like that!   

what's RIT dye?
[/quote]

Quote from: DucHead on September 10, 2014, 05:35:19 AM
Lots of beautiful parts going on this bike.        Why not replace the huge OEM handlebar switches?   

I do have the right hand kill switch from a Panigale, similar to Kopfjäger's here:



But you're right about the left switch...when I found a NOS one it made perfect sense at the time, and being fresh and new it certainly helps, but I do feel a bit of regret...it really is BIG.



Any suggestions? Problem is if I get something else it would have to look ok with the Panigale switch else I'd be looking at replacing both. The matching left switch looks fantastic but it won't work, uses latching relays and I don't have the brain power to figure it out.