woodcraft makes race parts, that hold up extremely well in crashes (and tend to minimize damage to the bike in these situations as well).

The metal is soft, because its supposed to bend rather than snap in a lowside, so that you can finish the race (if possible)

The finish, is different than the metal being soft, and they're handlebars, you don't NEED to pc them.  They're 90% covered up anyway....if they're black, take sharpie, and scratch gone.

they look like quality, and much cheaper than the other options.

Quote from: WinSomeLoseNone on July 11, 2010, 06:12:41 PM
Just had to steal my thunder 

Looks great!!!!

You should try pushing the handlebar further through the clipon and eliminate that excess bar and tighten up your controls even more.

What do you think about the cheap-o handlebars. Yea a new set costs $15 but the metal is extremely SOFT. I scratched the shit out of mine during install and Now I need to have the handlebars powdercoated. Will probably get the clipons pc'd as well, gloss black rather than flat black to match the top triple.

How do you like the riding position??

Good call, I just pushed everything in and it looks better... I had them further apart because of the windscreen I was trying to install, but it's not gonna work so in they go....

I had no issues with metal softness.... Yeah, it scratches, but they are covered up completely and what little is expose the scratches are minimal. I am happy with them!

Quote from: mattc7 on July 11, 2010, 06:35:51 PM
woodcraft makes race parts, that hold up extremely well in crashes (and tend to minimize damage to the bike in these situations as well).

The metal is soft, because its supposed to bend rather than snap in a lowside, so that you can finish the race (if possible)

The finish, is different than the metal being soft, and they're handlebars, you don't NEED to pc them.  They're 90% covered up anyway....if they're black, take sharpie, and scratch gone.

they look like quality, and much cheaper than the other options.

I'm not doubting their quality but they could have been pc'd from the start to help with a clean look. They are raw aluminum and when you drop well over $400 into a control setup it would be nice if the bars weren't covered in scratches.

I'll probably run some vinyl tape around the bar to hide the scratches.

let me get this straight here, thinking maybe this mod next summer. 1908 forks, speedymoto triple, and wodcraft 2" rise bars? any modding needed for breaks? i love this look, very nice.

Quote from: DoWorkSon on July 11, 2010, 03:25:19 PM
Here are my woodcraft on with 2" rise.... Pretty crappy pics with my phone.... But they are on!... Oh also with my 1098 fork swap 

well for 'brakes' you'll need 15mm offset rotors with the '1098' forks.

Quote from: Raux on September 21, 2010, 08:26:19 AM
well for 'brakes' you'll need 15mm offset rotors with the '1098' forks.

thanks for the info again Raux, i think i posted the question twice,,,

Quote from: DucatiTorrey on September 21, 2010, 06:30:42 AM
let me get this straight here, thinking maybe this mod next summer. 1908 forks, speedymoto triple, and wodcraft 2" rise bars? any modding needed for breaks? i love this look, very nice.

1908 forks?

Why use something over 100 years old? If cost is a concern, the stock forks aren't THAT bad!

(trying to be more blatant, because i didn't think he got it before)

sorry guys, had an accident at work yesterday, home on percocet all day, bruised ribs and all, spell1ng may be a little off

what kinda of accident? are you ok?

Quote from: Raux on September 21, 2010, 07:31:15 PM
what kinda of accident? are you ok?

yeah im fine, im building cabinets for work these days, and on a delivery was carrying a 150 lbs corner cabinet with a buddy up someones garage stairs into their house, and i stepped off the landing, fell five feet hit my chest, bruised ribs and bashed face. im ok though, just a little tight today

My 2013 696 was struck by a vehicle in a parking lot while unattended. The steering lock was engaged at the time, and obviously broke the key/lock and steering head among tires/wheels/handlebars/tank/guards/sliders/levers/pedals etc.

Parts ordered:

1. Woodcraft Clip-ons with 3'' riser 50mm silver.

2. Speedymoto Top Triple Monster without Risers 50mm Clear

3. Monsterparts Clip-On Spacer Kit (check website daily until "in stock", usually show "out of stock").

A Ducati dealership installed the parts and drilled the handlebars. They adjusted the wires/cabling, but the headlight didn't require any additional parts.  I don't know about the reports of lowering the headlight, the shop didn't report anything to me about that and I didn't send them anything other than the above. Comparing the headlight angle with an 09 1100, they are both pointing at a downward angle as I think they are supposed to? I am not sure if I should push the bottom of the 696 headlight out a full 1''.

Picking up the bike after repair. Black bike, so I went with "clear" finish Speedymoto upper triple, silver Woodcraft clip-ons:


Steering stop, 3 threads showing. Lots of room to increase further:


Enough room for my hands. Still some room to increase sweepback angle:


3'' Woodcraft riser means the controls would impact the tank at its widest point:


Since the Woodcraft risers are sold separately, I could go all the way down to 1'' and not have to re-drill the handlebars. Excepting the no-rise set which ship only with included handlebars. Below 3'' though I would need to consider how to lower the display so it wouldn't look out of place.

It was a 2 hour ride back home at interstate speeds of 70 mph. I was extremely uncomfortable with the handlebar vibration in the throttle hand, leading to numbness and nerve damage. Since the Rizoma handlebar end caps are not weighted, I'll try to find a heavier barend that still fits the Rizoma mirrors and/or fill the handlebars with sand. Then again, I had leather everything, back armor, and a heavy backpack to carry the seat cowl and hold heavier items in the rear seat bag. And streamlining myself as much as possible to avoid wind and loss of gas efficiency.

If you need/want to move the headlight forward (clearance/looks) there's a kit...

http://www.desmoworld.com/shop/ducati-monster/m696-m796-m1100/elektrik/scheinwerfer/desmoworld-m696-796-1100-1100evo-headlight-relocator.html

I am ignorant. How can I tell if the headlight needs to be moved? Nothing seems to be wrong, so what am I missing?

There seems to be plenty of room between the headlight and the clipon riser:



And the lower headlight mount hardware is unchanged:

It's an option for those who might have clearance issues or just want the headlight moved.

Ok, looks like it wasn't an issue with a Speedymoto top triple. It's only the stock top triple folks w/clipons who need to readjust the headlight then.