I periodically raise this issue, so thanks for your patience.

With FCRs, the issue of carb freezing went away. Since my Monster is back to CV carbs and winter is approaching with a vengeance, I am considering my options in dealing with carb icing. Although our winters here aren't anything like those you northerners experience, our cold is humid, perfect for carb icing. I once saw ice on the outside of the inlet manifolds of a mate's bike; really. I couldn't believe it considering the manifolds are alloy. The ice melted once we were stopped and my buddies bike sat at idle for awhile.

I will test with exhaust heat insulating wrap around the inlet manifolds as a first option. I'm hoping that trapping heat in the inlet tract while keeping wind chill airflow off the outside of the manifolds will promote atomization and prevent icing along the inside walls of the manifolds. First giving the bike a good warm up is going to be important to promote heat saturation before the air velocity increases. The mod is simple and reversible come summer.

Like others I found the oem float bowl oil jacket kit a failure back in 1996-1997. Others again say the oem electrically heated bowls don't get hot enough. I like the electric float bowl heater idea better and would consider making my own if the "carb sock" doesn't work.

Anyone tried the carb sock idea? If you think it's futile, I'd like to know why.

Interesting idea using the insulation wrap.  Might actually keep the carbs a little warmer, if not, winter performance might still improve.  Blocking off the oil cooler might help a little too.  My guess is the reason for the oil heated cars not working was at least in part to not very hot oil.  My old 750 oil temp could be down around 60^oC on the highway.  Maybe with the other modifications the silly electric heaters might stand a chance.

Yeah, maybe fitting the electric heaters with carb socks could work in combination. I'd run a set with a manual switch if I fitted them. I reckon you could make a set with little elements and controller from the electrical hobby store. Or burn the bike down.

If I decide to build my own electric warming kit I will definitely be seeking your advice.

I went through the search function tracking the discussion on this topic. Someone has gotta find a fix.

run a heating element (hairdryer etc) inside the airbox, before the fuel is involved? somehow add in a thermostat based in the manifolds, so you can run the element only when required, to get the air temp required. just a random idea, no idea if it's plausable!!

the socks sound so much simpler now 

maybe cut up a set of heated gloves??

Good on you blokes for thinking laterally.

For an electrical solution it's finding an element hot enough but not too hot, and small enough to fit in the float bowls.

I was thinking of utilizing the existing bolt holes in the float bowls that take the oil heater kit. I was hoping to shove an element of some sort in there and have a manual switch. The Shorai battery would warm up when it warms up the float bowls before hitting the starter, killing two birds with one stone. If the carb sock doesn't work, heating the bowls is the next thing to try. As Howie said, it may take a couple of things to work together. I'll ask the Ducati or Triumph dealer about the parts they use for these kits.

Are there any electrical fuel warmers that run in line? That would be a plug and play solution. Or are there additives to put in the tank with each fill up? Couldn't find any here last time I looked.

Certainly easier to use the engine's own heat to do the job by trapping it.

Arctic Fox make diesel fuel heaters designed for rigs in Alaska and Arctic Europe. A bit hot for gasoline! They even have a fuel line with a built in element in sizes down to 2". A unit for gasoline/petrol would be plug and play.

Notes from PILOT FRIEND Website: Fixed Wing Flight Training re Carburettor Icing.

I guess it's pretty important to these guys .
Forum flyboys (and girls) feel free to comment.

Three types of carb icing.
1. Impact Ice: Ice forming on intakes and air filters from snow, rain and sleet between 15-32F. Unlikely.
2. Fuel ice : Vaporized fuel freezing on entry into the manifolds. Likely at 50%+ humidity and temps between 40-80 F. Most likely for us.
3. Throttle Ice : Ice on throttle butterfly, venturi and slide from freezing water vapour at between 32-37F. Possible.

Looking at No.2, trapping heat in the manifolds might be promising. A fuel warming system that actually works has potential.

More useless info for you guys in the tropics.

Looking at the parts diagram, the electric heater has elements entering the side of the carb body on the 2001 M750. It's an attempt to warm the carb body itself to stop icing. That's a lot of metal to heat with the low watt element. The oil system of the earlier models warms the float bowls to warm up the fuel, but if the oil is warm enough to warm the fuel in the bowls then it was probably warm enough weather to not need them.
I think electric heating of the float bowls themselves is the answer like Triumph do on their carb models.

i dont know if this would be of any help. this one seems to heat the carbs off the oil.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-1998-Ducati-750SS-900SS-cold-weather-carburetor-heating-kit-69920371A-/360874129096?hash=item5405c636c8

Thanks DL.
That's the old oil heating kit that didn't really work. My first Monster had one fitted under warranty and it made no difference until the weather was warm enough to not need it. Seems the oil temp is kept down quite well on these motors in winter.

Quote from: koko64 on May 13, 2015, 05:57:52 PM
Thanks DL.
That's the old oil heating kit that didn't really work. My first Monster had one fitted under warranty and it made no difference until the weather was warm enough to not need it. Seems the oil temp is kept down quite well on these motors in winter.

Did you ever try blocking off the oil cooler when it was cold?

Iirc the kit on my bike had a tap that redirected the oil from the cooler to the float bowls and back to the oil system. It made for very messy plumbing. It bypassed the cooler via a simple on/off tap. I had a vinyl cover on my Shovelhead's Lockhart oil cooler and I reckon that made a difference on that bike.

Quote from: koko64 on May 13, 2015, 05:57:52 PM
Thanks DL.
That's the old oil heating kit that didn't really work. My first Monster had one fitted under warranty and it made no difference until the weather was warm enough to not need it. Seems the oil temp is kept down quite well on these motors in winter.

Yeah makes sense after you mentioned it. Even takes my fuelly ss awhile to get up to operating temp on a 60 degree day.