No power at two prong connector to starter relay.  Headlight/dash lights good.
For past four months I have gotten occasional no click when pressing start but by jiggling wires/cables I was never stranded (but could not find the source).  Parked her Thanksgiving night after an hour on the highway, next morning no click.  There is nothing immediately apparent at wires by steering column and jiggling wires no help this time.  I redid the brown wire’s patch at steering column, it had power. I checked the kickstand switch bypass: still in there.  Tested the starter switch resistance per manual instructions: it passed.  I reseated side stand relay:nada.
Before I redo the patches on other three wires by steering column I was wondering if one could do a simple continuity test on them from the starter switch four prong connector (am assuming brown wire good).  From manual’s electric diagram: one prong powers the two prong connector at starter relay.  The second is looped(?) into brown wire.  The third goes to the side stand relay (rele’sicurezze).
Thanks,
Jerry

Pretty sure there's a fuse that isn't marked the way I'd mark it. It's labeled engine ignition, regulator. It's slot #2 and it's 7.5 amp. IIRC it also controls the starter circuit.

I tried it.  I had power at the fuse holder and continuity on fuse was good then I swapped fuses around.  I will try the continuity tests tomorrow and if no result just cut and patch remaining three wires.  It just they are all nicely shrink tubed and the jiggle test fails.

It was worth mentioning.

Did you check the kill switch?  You can bypass the sidestand relay by jumping the red/black and red/blue wires. 

Yes on Kill switch.  Will try bypass on side stand relay.  I take it my plan to check continuity at start switch not likely?

Do check the ignition switch.  Gently wiggle the key while checking.  They do wear.

No luck with key switch jiggle or jumping side stand relay.  Power at relay read 11. something.  If key switch do you think it would show up during manual's resistance test?

Yes.  Do you have a wiring diagram?

I pulled the key switch and it passed all tests after cleaning the contacts.  Reinstalled but still no click.  Started over and checked power at fuse.  No power at ignition fuse.  Main solenoid clicks and all lights are on so only that fuse.  I inspected underneath the fuse box; the wires to the main looked a little cooked but nothing noticeable at ignition fuse.  Wiggling wires did not help.  Does the whole fuse box need to be replaced?

You have a lot more checking to do.  The main relay is working if since the lights and gauges come on with the key.  You need to make sure the safety relay is both getting power and functioning.  The red/black wire from fuse#2 powers the relay.  Through the relay it powers the kill switch.  Then to the other components.  If the relay functions (you can bypass it or test it)  and the kill switch works you will have to check each connection to pinpoint where the power is interrupted.

Back to the fuse panel.  Yes, that connection could be the problem.  Replace the fuse panel?  Not yet.  Remove connector, inspect, clean or repair as needed.  Probably a good idea to disconnect negative at the battery so you don't accidentally short anything.  You might be looking at a break in the harness where the wires run down the steering. 

A good repair shop is another option.  Oh, the best way to find high resistance in a circuit is voltage drop.

With ignition fuse in I still get 11.07 at side stand relay.  Fuse out I get nothing across fuse terminals and nothing at relay.  I do not understand how that is possible.  Looking at diagram R/Bk goes directly from fuse holder to relay.

"Remove connector, inspect, clean or repair as needed"
I've looked at bottom of fuse panel twice and am guessing the wires just unplug not a molex pin deal?

Quote from: tbyte on December 16, 2019, 01:03:57 PM
With ignition fuse in I still get 11.07 at side stand relay.  Fuse out I get nothing across fuse terminals and nothing at relay.  I do not understand how that is possible.  Looking at diagram R/Bk goes directly from fuse holder to relay.

"Remove connector, inspect, clean or repair as needed"
I've looked at bottom of fuse panel twice and am guessing the wires just unplug not a molex pin deal?

There's typically a small tab that locks the female connector in the fuse block.

Which terminal at the relay?  Did you test the relay itself?

With ignition switched on I had measured the voltage at 30 and 87 which are the two tangs at bottom in https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHAR634 and are both red/black (or blue) wires.  I tried jumping 30 and 87 while pressing starter but no luck.  On relay the resistance between 30/87 infinity and low on 85/86.