Thank you koko this is a very interesting subject, thank you so much for bringing it up! I learnt a new thing now, exciting

This is surely gonna help with the condensation built up in the engine which is fantastic! Not sure about performance (although I'm not after it), some say oil separator box increases crankcase volume and removing it will decrease power produced, others say opening the system will no longer force hot/oily air into intake and therfore suck in better quality cold air and make more power. I don't really know what to think about it, both theories make sanse

My question is, would it be better to install a filter directly on the crankcase and remove the oil catcher box completely (more space under the seat, yay!), or install it on the hose that goes back to the airbox? Should I be worried about oil dripping down on rear tyre? Or is it just gonna be a case of checking the filter every now and then and washing it/replacing? Perhaps I should attach filter to the hose that goes from the crankcase and install it under seat, above the crankcase opening, so gravity will take care of any oil? Am I overthinking it?

/e: I've ordered K&N crankcase vent filter. I've decided I'll install it at the end of hose that connects to crankcase. I'll place it on the right side of the bike, where the side plastic cover is - I removed both anyway as I don't like them, and have scottoiler on left side already. This way it will be above crankcase opening and should trap oil, and I'll have easy acces to it should I clean/inspect the filter. Also it will be a cool bling, I like the look of exposed frame, filters and this kind of stuff As long as it has an actual function and will not hurt the engine.

Run the filter off the breather box under the seat and maintain the faux extra crankcase volume. I did dyno tests on a modified M900 years ago and found no difference with the hose to the air box or just a filter off the breather box under the seat. The difference was the AFR as read by the dyno's EGA at idle/low rpm. This proved the fuel contamination theory. The hp gains running a vacuum are on higher revving race motors or when measuring higher hp % I guess. The dyno didn't notice on my 86p Monster .

I am wary of just sticking a filter on the crankcase breather near the rear wheel. I'll try and find the threads on all this. You can use the search function here and access so much.

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=49770.0

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=71680.0

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=2469.msg31681#msg31681

Issue has fueled some debate.

Or you could get ride a bicycle to/from work and get some exercise.

What aboutwarming up the engine on the side stand for a couple minutes?

Quote from: pmazdan9 on February 14, 2020, 03:08:40 AM
<SNIP>

My question is, would it be better to install a filter directly on the crankcase and remove the oil catcher box completely (more space under the seat, yay!), or install it on the hose that goes back to the airbox? Should I be worried about oil dripping down on rear tyre? Or is it just gonna be a case of checking the filter every now and then and washing it/replacing? Perhaps I should attach filter to the hose that goes from the crankcase and install it under seat, above the crankcase opening, so gravity will take care of any oil? Am I overthinking it?
<SNIP>

Mount the filter as far back & hi as possible, if you don't mind filter being visible.
Using oil catch tank is better (if you get paranoid about the idea of oil dripping on the rear tire.)



Here's the short thread regarding crank case filter / oil catch tank / removal of oil separator box.
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=75844.0

Some interesting opinions in linked threads.

I'll go with your advice koko, filter on the hose off the box, plugged airbox. Not sure about the extra crankcase volume since the one-way valve is mounted on the crankcase, but it will catch oil so it makes sense to keep it anyway. Not bothered about power as long as duc is happy with this setup and it helps with condensation. If performance is noticeably worse, I can always go back to stock Thanks a lot

greenohawk I guess I could, but I won't Warming up the bike is another topic. Some say it's best to warm it up as you ride. Keep rpm at a third ish of a limit until fully warmed up. This doesn't put as much stress on the engine, yet it lubricates all parts better because oil pressure is higher. I tend to fire it up, take it out of the 'garage', put my gear on and take off, it takes 2 minutes or a bit longer if I smoke a fag.

Yeah I hear you, I have a slow, 5 min ride out of my estate at about 20-30kmph for a warm up after the putting helmet on, etc. That works with the efi bike, with a carbed 750 I do a more traditional warm up in winter to get those manifolds hot to stop carb freezing.

Carbed bikes are a little different yeah, especially in winter!

I'll let you all know how the installation goes and if it works for me, hopefully I can do it this or next weekend - still waiting for the filter.

The filter arrived on Friday and I installed it yesterday. Took my duc for a spin, didn't notice any difference performance wise, bike feels the same. Filter gets warm and is steaming so I guess it works Looking at the oil level sight glass it seems that there's less condensation already, however I'm yet to the take a bike for a proper ride when weathers good. It was all white prior to this change to the point I couldn't see oil level clearly and it got a little better after 30min ride.

 

Cover that oil cooler for short trips and when it's below 15-16C unless you are going to ride it hard and/or long. Your temp gauge will give you a feel for when to cover the cooler  under local conditions.

how much oil gets up into the overflow reservoir?
why is it needed? to relive oil pressure?
at what point when does it fill?

Not much oil should get up into the breather tank.

A little mist and vapor, as there is some combustion and compression blowby past the piston rings.
The breather is meant to condense most of that out, so that it can then drain back into the engine.

Some vapor will not condense out, and gets sucked into the engine to be burned.

If the piston rings get worn or their sealing performance is degraded, the OEM breather setup also helps keep most of the oil inside the engine.
As it does for folks who wheelie a lot.