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Case re assembly

Started by Pinion, March 02, 2020, 02:20:55 PM

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Pinion

So I re assembled cases today, all is good with the exception that the crank is a little difficult to turn, it does and smoothly, just takes some effort.
When case bolts removed she spins free, snug them up and not so much. Took it apart, inspected everthing. Tranny and cam pulls spin free
Is it normal. No bearing change, everything back the way it went out, dunno.  [bang]

And yes, assembly lube was used

1509A51C-8D72-49B1-8728-DA12B84D8C30 by D charles, on Flickr
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ducpainter

If you didn't change bearings you should be good.

Duc cranks are pre-loaded, as the cases grow when they reach temp.

You probably didn't check before you disassembled...right?
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Pinion

It spun a lot free’er
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Orange16

check the preload - should be 0.15 - 0.20mm.  if it's tight i'd assume there's something wrong

Pinion

Quote from: Orange16 on March 02, 2020, 03:58:52 PM
check the preload - should be 0.15 - 0.20mm.  if it's tight i'd assume there's something wrong

And how do I do that , cause I’m assuming there is something wrong. Was much easier to spin before disassembly
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Pinion

Quote from: ducpainter on March 02, 2020, 02:44:20 PM
If you didn't change bearings you should be good.

Duc cranks are pre-loaded, as the cases grow when they reach temp.

You probably didn't check before you disassembled...right?

I was more worried about the tranny, so right
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Orange16

Pull it apart and pull the crank out.  On either side of the crank centre section will be some shims.  This is a 3 phase alt engine from what I can see, so there's one shim per side.  You need the thinnest shim per side to check preload, as the crank journal has a fillet that fouls on the inside of the bearing if there is no shim, giving a false reading.  They are 1.90mm.

So you get the 1.90mm shims on each side, bolt the cases together and put a dial gauge on the end of the crank and lever it side to side and measure the end float.  Add 0.15 -0.20mm to the end float, divide by 2 and add that to the 1.90mm shims each side.  i have a stand that has the engine with the RH side down so the crank sits vertically.  Makes this bit much easier doing it this way.

The manuals show measuring the depth of everything from the cases centre faces.  I just looked in the 2000 M900ie manual and they also show what I have described, calling it a "more practical method".

I have removed shims in the region of 2.25 - 2.30mm and replaced with 2.10 - 2.15.  They're generally over preloaded in my experience.

scaudill

With the engine assembled and the crank has resistance when turned.  With a dead blow hammer or block of wood and hammer tap on the crank end.  You might have to try each side of the crank.  Sometime the bearings are not seated properly. 
Good Luck!

Pinion

Just want to repeat

This was just cases split, cleaned and re assembled, all parts are what was there, no bearings were replaced, no shims were changed
Took apart, cleaned put back
Will trade toilet paper for parts

Pinion

Quote from: Orange16 on March 02, 2020, 06:35:58 PM
Pull it apart and pull the crank out.  On either side of the crank centre section will be some shims.  This is a 3 phase alt engine from what I can see, so there's one shim per side.  You need the thinnest shim per side to check preload, as the crank journal has a fillet that fouls on the inside of the bearing if there is no shim, giving a false reading.  They are 1.90mm.

So you get the 1.90mm shims on each side, bolt the cases together and put a dial gauge on the end of the crank and lever it side to side and measure the end float.  Add 0.15 -0.20mm to the end float, divide by 2 and add that to the 1.90mm shims each side.  i have a stand that has the engine with the RH side down so the crank sits vertically.  Makes this bit much easier doing it this way.

The manuals show measuring the depth of everything from the cases centre faces.  I just looked in the 2000 M900ie manual and they also show what I have described, calling it a "more practical method".

I have removed shims in the region of 2.25 - 2.30mm and replaced with 2.10 - 2.15.  They're generally over preloaded in my experience.

Thanks
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Pinion

Can we say “Ducati gremlins”
All together now
Put them together again, and Uber niceness
I wet myself at such smoothness
Will trade toilet paper for parts

Speeddog


Did you put assembly lube on the rod journals?
And on the main bearings?

Cause that's some sticky stringy stuff you got there.
Depends how you're doing the turning test.

Confirm there's not debris between bearing/shim/crank.

Shims installed with chamfer towards crank, yes?
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Pinion

Quote from: Speeddog on March 03, 2020, 07:36:40 AM
Did you put assembly lube on the rod journals?
And on the main bearings?

Cause that's some sticky stringy stuff you got there.
Depends how you're doing the turning test.

Confirm there's not debris between bearing/shim/crank.

Shims installed with chamfer towards crank, yes?

Yes, yes, yes, yes, and yes
Lol
All good now, just some gremlins making sure it doesn’t go too smoothly
Will trade toilet paper for parts