Quote from: greenmonster on November 30, 2020, 09:17:12 AM
Behind belts drive wheel, after fitting seal, give the seating
a punch to prevent seal from rotating and leaking.
Shims behind flywheel often slids outta place, be thorough.
And do not forget Oring under cyl barrels...

thank you!  good advice there!  keep it coming!

Waiting for the engine spares at the moment, so filled some time doing some bead blasting on bits and pieces… one of the best bits of kit I have is a blast cabinet… It used to live outside at the back of the garage because I could never seal it from escaping media as obviously the air tries to inflate the cabinet… with machines about abrasive dust is a no no… Then I hit on the idea of a centrifugal type filter, which offers no resistance to the air going through it. I made the filter out of an Ikea plastic box and some sink drain pipe, it vents outside…. the principle is as the air is made to twist and turn, the partials of dust and media centrifuge out and drop to the bottom of the chambers… so the first chamber gets the most, the second less and so on. there is hardly anything on the drive and nothing in the workshop. its difficult to get this level of restoration to a part without it… Bead also gives that nice sheen to alloy parts and they don’t pick up dirty finger prints. its very good at resisting oxidation as well, particularly with a coat of ACF-50… here is the fuel tap.

I used to make a BIG mistake with bead blasting… I could never get a really nice finish except with brand new media… I moaned at the supplier once and he asked me what pressure I blasted at… high as I can I told him.. there is your problem then! you are shattering the glass beads and turning them into sharp dust, hence you get a dull surface! So I went home, filled my cabinet with new bead and got my wife to turn up the pressure as I cleaned a part… soon as it went shiny, that was the best pressure!



here is the difference old bead high pressure, new bead low pressure!



here is a before and after on some weber carbs I rebuilt...





here is how the filter works

Ditch the vacuum tap for a manual one. The vacuum taps fail by either leaking and flooding down the manifold vac hose or jamming shut starving the motor. Some Hondas had the same issue. Ethanol also eats the diaphragm.

Quote from: koko64 on November 30, 2020, 05:27:13 PM
Ditch the vacuum tap for a manual one. The vacuum taps fail by either leaking and flooding down the manifold vac hose or jamming shut starving the motor. Some Hondas had the same issue. Ethanol also eats the diaphragm.

That's a good call...  is there a specific replacement you can link to that people use?

http://www.pingelonline.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=65EF6DD65E7E4DC8863437874E1A73C8
www.partsgiant.com/p345538-wps-fuel-valve-shut-off-with-5-16-line-knob-type?r=mg-25&r=c-23515
http://www.pingelonline.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=88413BA6DDE54C479613CB38822BC715
https://www.motionpro.com/product/12-0036

I have no idea why Motion Pro states not for over 300cc.  Worked fine on my bike.

Oh, what is that Weber from?

The fuel hoses between the tank/filter, the filter/OE vacuum valve & the vacuum valve/pump aren’t the correct ID as they used to be.

Seems someone @ Ducati failed to check that prior to ordering them in this last batch.  I redid the fuel system on a ‘96 M900 last year and had to use at least three fuel nipples and fuel hoses in order to step down the hose ID so it would properly crimp onto the barbs.  Total PITA.

You’ve been warned. Good luck

https://www.motionpro.com/product/12-0036

That's the one, they work fine. I made a little aluminum lever for mine as that knob is a bit of a joke if you're wearing gloves.

I've been using Briggs and Stratton taps, but not all are rated for ethanol. E fuels are a minority option here. The 93-95 Monster taps are great taps and you could make a nice bracket.

Quote from: howie on December 01, 2020, 08:40:29 AM
http://www.pingelonline.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=65EF6DD65E7E4DC8863437874E1A73C8
www.partsgiant.com/p345538-wps-fuel-valve-shut-off-with-5-16-line-knob-type?r=mg-25&r=c-23515
http://www.pingelonline.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=88413BA6DDE54C479613CB38822BC715
https://www.motionpro.com/product/12-0036

I have no idea why Motion Pro states not for over 300cc.  Worked fine on my bike.

Oh, what is that Weber from?

Its from a Lotus engine I was rebuilding...  Years ago I used to build Twincam engines, and Crossflow race engines...

i had Weber carbs on quite a few of my own cars as well!  I like Weber carbs!

Love those engine pics.
Use to autocross a dodge omni GLH.  Dual DCOE40's, biggest cam I could find, and a header.  Fun drive but what a piece of junk.  A guy knocked on my door one day wanting to buy the thing.  Told him the car was free but the carbs are $1k.  He took the car, I kept the carbs.  Still have them if anyone is interested.

As for your M900 fuel set up...suggest placing an electric fuel pump as close to the tank as possible, followed by that motionpro shut off.  Where the fuel vapor canister use to live is a good place to start (under the seat).  I put a homemade heat shield between the pump and the vertical header to help keep things cool.

Or renew diaphragm in fuel tap.
No risk of fuelfilled engine, only works w running engine...
Watch out for kinks in short hoses, risk for starvation.

Quote from: greenmonster on December 02, 2020, 07:37:21 AM
Or renew diaphragm in fuel tap.
No risk of fuelfilled engine, only works w running engine...
Watch out for kinks in short hoses, risk for starvation.

Mine failed in the open position. 

Mine did too.  One of the first things I replaced on the Monster.

I did rebuild the fuel pump a few times.  The new diaphragm would last a few years.  Went electric when I got tired of draining fuel out of the crankcase.

50 years ago I was an apprentice to the best mechanic I have ever known…Gerry Lampit. He is 89 now and I still visit him… he is still sharp as a razor … He taught me that the hammer was the last resort… that’s always stayed with me. So when I needed to change the swinging arm bearings his words rang in my head



Parts have arrived from Moto Rapido. What a pleasure it is to deal with Craig and Luke, they are SO helpful and knowledgeable! after years of suffering the ignorant local dealer, these guys are the best!



The engine rebuild has started… the cases are together, crank and gearbox shafts shimmed, and I spent a couple of hours making a flywheel holding tool. it worked rather well. Don’t ask me why the hell I welded the bar right across it, had to cut it to get the socket on! senior moment!

when building these engines do you guys use any sealant on the base gasket?

Thin layer of Three Bond or equivalent.